
Book_ L_ 

GpigM? 

COFiRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



CHRISTIANITY IN THE KITCHEN. 



PHYSIOLOGICAL COOK BOOK, 



BY 



MRS. HORACE MANN 



" There 's death in the pot." — 2 Kings, iv. 40. 

In that day, every pot in Jerusalem, and in Judah, should be holiness 
unto the Lord of hosts." — Zechariah, xiv. 21. 




BOSTON: 
TICK NOR AND FIELDS. 

MDCCC LVIII. 



X 






Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1857, by 

Maky Mann. 

In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. 



Cambridge: 
thurston axd torry, printers. 



INDEX 



Adulterations 
Albumen 
Almond pudding 
Alcohol . 
Alexis St. Martin 
Apple dumplings 

" Indian puddin 

" cream . 

" minced pies 

" pies 

" pie, dried . 

" sauce 

«* jelly . 
Arrowroot cream 
" pudding 

Asparagus . 

B. 

Batter pudding . . 67, 73 
Beaumont's digestion table 27 



Page 

14,32 

. 34 

63 
. 28 

26 
. 72 

73 
. 100 

77 
. 78 

79 

. 93 

. 108 

. 114 

62 

. 160 

. 119 



Beef 



tea 

boiled, corn 

soup 

steak 

pie 

olives 

stuffed and briskets 

bouilli . 

pickled 



128 
38 
128 
128 
129 
132 
133 
133 
134 
135 



Page 
157 
128 
125 
123 
72 



Beef, essence 

Beans 
" baked 

Beets 

Birds nest pudding 

Blanc-mange, isin- 
glass 

Blanc-mange 
moss . 

Blanc-mange, Cooper's } ^ 
isinglass 

Blanc-mange 



102, 116 
carageen ) 



102 



corn starch 
'calf's feet 
" •« Russian 
isinglass . 
Blanc-mange, farina 
" " rice . 
Bran mixings, 
Bread . . 15,17,49 
" pudding . 61 

" sauce 
Broccoli . 
Brioche rolls 
Biscotine 
Browning 

Beverages, orgeat . 
*•' raspberry 
" of herb . 
" figsand apples 
" fig "lemonade 
Buckwheat cakes 
Butter 

[in] 



104 
105 

105 

105 

114 

48 

,50 

,67 

92 

122 

184 

157 

176 

187 

188 

188 

188 

188 

56 

21 



IV 




INDEX. 








Page 




Page 




0. 




Cream cakes 


59,89 


Cake 


3 


. 84 


" syrup 


. 45 


t« 


lemon 


89 


" pie 


79 


<( 


sponge . 


. 84 


" pink 


. 115 


« 


Providence sponge 


" white lemon 


115 


a 


New York sponge 


. 85 


" imperial 


. 100 


<( 


Boston sponge 


85 


" Italian 


105 


it 


Ohio sponge . 


. b5 


" lemon 


. 89 


tt 


ground rice 


86 


" tea 


100 


" 


cup 


. 86 


" clouted . 


. 183 


«< 


frosting 


86 


Cranberries 


108 


a 


kiss . 


. 86 


Cranberry pudding 


. 66 


tt 


snow 


87 


" tarts . 


78 


a 


batter 


. 90 


jelly 


. 109 


cc 


Shakespeare 


88 


" sauce . 


93 


tt 


Aunt Hannah 


. 88 


" and rice . 


. 114 


<« 


almond 


88 


Currie sauce 


93 


Calf 


s feet soup 


. 139 


Currant shrub 


. 151 


(( 


head . 


174 


Custard, soft 


97 


<c 


feet tea . 


. 160 


" French 


. 97 


(« 


liver . 


139 


" almond . 


98 


Carrots 


. 120 


" pudding . 


. 69 


<« 


pudding . 


64 


pie 


83 


(C 


puree 


. 173 


Cutlets a la victime 


. 176 


Cauliflower . 


122 






Celery sauce . 


. 92 


D. 




Charlotte roussa . 


101 




<« 


a la pomme 


. 82 


Diet for the Sick . 155-161 


Chei 


ry pies 


77 


Prepared flour 


. 156 


Chic 


ien pie 


. 79 


Biscotine . 


. 157 


tt 


fricasseed 1 


43, 177 


Mucilage 


. 157 


" 


baked in rice 


142 


Essence of beef 


157 


Chocolate custard . 


. 97 


Rice water 


158 


Cocoa . . .35 


, 44, 45 


Toast water . 


. 158 


Cocoa-nut pudding . 


. 62 


Rennet whey 


. 158 


u 


" cakes . 


87 


Wine whey . 


. 159 


a 


" drops 


. 88 


Oatmeal gruel 


. 159 


Cooking of meats 


36 


Ground rice . 


. 159 


Cold fruit pudding . 


. 66 


Indian meal gru 


el 100 


Corn 


, green 


. 122 


Pearl sago 


. 100 


(( 


meal bread 


. 53 


Tapioca 


. 100 


<( 


cakes 


54 


Arrow-root . 


. 100 


tt 


griddle cakes 


. 55 


Cream tea 


. 100 


a 


pudding * . 


70 


Calf s feet tea. 


. 160 


u 


pie 


. 79 


Fever draught 


. 161 


Cream" 


22 


" anoti 


ler 161 


<« 


biscuit . 


. 57 


Parched corn te. 


i 161 





INDEX. 


V 




Page 




Page 


Diet, &c. 




Herb tea . 


161 


Herb teas 


161 


Honey vinegar 


. 151 


For mothers 


161 






E. 




I. 

Ice cream 


. 95 


Edging for dishes . 90, 92 


CC CC 


95 


Egg plant 


123 


" " currant 


. 96 


Eggs, dropped 


126 


" " custard 


96 


" poached 


185 


" imperial 


. 100 


" snow . 


178 


'* Italian 


105 






Indian griddle cakes 


63, 73 






" pudding, boiled 


. 64 


F. 




" " baked 


64 


Fever draught 


160 


" and flour pudding 


. 65' 


" " another 


161 


•' and rye bread 


53 


Fish, seasons for 


146 


Irish flummery 


. 116 


" cooked . 144, 


, 146 


" potato cakes 


60 


" sauce 


92 






Flavorings . 


10J 






Flannel cakes . 


60 


J. 




Floating island 

" " another . 
Flour, prepared . 


101 
101 

166 


Jam, strawberry 
" grape 
" raspberry 
.*' pine apple . 


. 112 

112 

. 112 


Flour and Indian pudding 


65 


112 


Flummery, Irish 


116 


Jelly, calf's foot 


. 102 


Fowls . . 140. 


, 143 


" Cooper's isinglass 


104 


" fricasseed . 142. 
Fruit pudding, cold 


,177 
66 


" quince 
" apple . 


. 107 
108 






<« CC 


. 108 


G. 




" currant 


112 


German waffles 


58 


" cranberry 

M cranberry and rice 


. 109 


Gingerbread, soft sugar 

CC CC CC 


87 
87 


114 


" Aunt Hannah I 






Glaze .... 


171 


K. 




Gluten . . . 33, 51 
Goose . . . .143 


Kidneys, sheep's 
Kiss cakes . 


. 186 

86 


" green 


143 


" froth 


. 99 


" old ... 


143 


Kolcannon 


. 126 


Greens 


122 






Ground rice pudding 


71 






Gruel, oatmeal 


159 


L. 




" Indian meal . 


160 


Lait de poule, sweet 


. 187 


--." 




Lamb .... 


131 


H. 




" and rice 


. 131 


Herbs, powdered 


160 


Lemon pudding . 


72 



VI 



INDEX. 





Page 






Page 


Lemon pie 


. 81 


Orange custard 


. 115 


• : cake . 


. 86, 89 


Orgeat . 


. 101 


1 ' custard 


. 115 








" syrup 


. 152 








" sugar of 


. 182 




p. 




Lobster sauce 


92 


Pastry . 


19,75 


" butter (Frenc 


h) . 174 


Partr 


Ldges . 


143 






Parsnips 


. 120 


M. 




Parched corn tea 


. 161 




Peacb 


pie 


. 79 


Macaroni 


. 124 


<< 


preserves . 


. 106 


" pudding 


62 


Pease 


. 


. 118 


Macaroons- . 


89, 183 


" 


pudding 


177 


Maitre d'hotel butter 


. 124 


Pearl 


sago 


. 160 


Marmalade, quince . 


. 107 


Pickles 


147 


Marlborough pudding 


64 


t< 


cucumbers 


. 157 


Meats, salted 


36, 126 


<( 


butternuts . 


148 


Mead, Sarsaparilla 


. 151 


c« 


walnuts 


. 148 


Meringues a la cuillerce . 184 


<< 


martinoes . 


148 


Milk, solidified milk 


17 


<< 


peaches . 


. 148 


Mint sauce 


. 9 


cc 


nasturtions 


148 


Mirror pudding . 


69 


CC 


mangoes 


. 148 


Mucilage 


. 157 


cc 


cherries 


148 


Muffins 


55, 185 


ti 


eggs 


.. 148 


Mushrooms 


. 123 


<< 


tomatoes 


148 


Mutton 


. 130 


(< 


sweet pickles 


. 148 


" broth . 


. 130 


Pies, 


apple minced 


77 


" stuffed loin 


. 130 


cc 


cherry . 


. 77 


" " chops 


. 131 


« 


rhubarb 


77 


" a la victime 


. 176 


cc 


pandowdy 


. 77 






M 


peach . 


79 


N. 




" 


pumpkin 


. 70 




Pigeons 


143 


Napoleon pudding . 


. 70 


Potatoes 


120 






tc 


pie crust 


. 120 






CC 


cakes, Irish 


60 


0. 




Poultry, seasons for 


. 143 


Oatmeal gruel 


. 159 


Preserves, plums . 


109 


Ohio pudding 


73 


< 


peaches . 


. 106 


Onions 


. 121 


c 


quinces 


106 


Oleaginous food . 


23 


1 


cranberries 


. 108 


Oyster pie 


. 80 


I 


pine apples 


109 


" corn . 


. 123 


I 


tomatoes 


. 110 


" scolloped 


. 81 


* 


pears . 


110 


" omelette 


. 125 


I 


citron melon 


. 112 


Orange pie 


. 82 


I 


strawberries 


111 







IND 

Page 


EX. 


Vll 

Page 


Paddings, bread . 61 


,67 


R. 




tt 


tapioca . 


61 


Rachel pudding 


. 70 


a 


sago . 


62 


Raspberry vinegar 


. 151 


<< 


arrow-root 


62 


" jam 


. 112 


«< 


macaroni 


62 


Ratafras (French) 


. 183 


tt 


cocoa-nut 


62 


Rennet whey 


. 168 


Si 


pine apple . 


63 


Rhubarb pies 


77 


tt 


almond . 


63 


Rice pudding . 


. 64 


it 


squash 


63 


" plum-pudding 


68 


tc 


carrot 


64 


" waffles 


. 56 


« 


sweet potato 


64 


" flour drops . 


56 


(( 


Marlborough . 


64 


" griddle cakes . 


. 58 


tt 


custard 


64 


" ground " 


69 


tt 


boiled Indian 66 


, 73 


" baked 


. 68 


<( 


plum . 


67 


" pie 


82 


<< 


batter 


67 


" water 


. 168 


<c 


rice 


68 


Rolls, brioche 


69, 184 


(< 


mirror 


69 


" breakfast 


. 185 


tt 


Eugenie 


69 


Rusks 


58, 186 


M 


flour and Indian J35 


Rye and Indian bread 


. 63 


<4 


cranberry . 


69 


' ' pudding 


73 


(1 


cold fruit 


65 


" cake 


. 56 


(I 


corn . 


70 






«( 


whortleberry . 


65 


S. 




u 


ground rice 


71 






f< 


potato 


71 


Sago pudding . 


. 62 


<< 


apple . 


72 


" pearl 


160 


It 


lemon 


72 


Salt risings 


. 47 


it 


bird's nest . 


72 


Salads 


. 124 


it 


apple, Indian . 


73 


Salted meat 


39, 135 


tt 


rye 


73 


Savsaparilla mead 


. 151 


(( 


batter 


73 


Sauce, cold pudding 


. 74 


tt 


Ohio . 


73 


" lobster butter 


92, 174 


a 


sauce, hot 


74 


" fruit 


74 


a 


" cold . 


74 


«* maitre d 'hotel butter 174 


Puff paste 


179 


" sugar 


. 174 


Puree 


)f carrot 


173 


" fish 


92, 173 


<( 


of cauliflower . 


178 


" German 
u celery 
" bread 


74 

. 92 

92 




Q 




. " apple 


. 93 


Quince 


pudding 


70 


a cranberry . 


93 


(< 


preserves . 


106 


" mint 


. 93 


tt 


marmalade . 


107 


' • currie 


93 


tt 


" . another 


107 


Scolloped oysters 


. 81 


" 


jelly . 


107 


Seasonings for meat 


. 140 



viii 


INDEX. 






Page 




Page 


Shells . 


. 45 


Tarts, cranberry 


. 78 


Shrimp pie . 


82 


Tea 


18, 43, 44 


Sheep's head . 


. 175 


" beef 


. 38 


Snow cake . 


86 


" cream . 


160 


Solidified milk 


. 17 


" calf's feet 


. 160 


Soup stocks 


39, 170 


" parched corn . 


. 161 


" Julienne 


. 171 


" herb 


. 161 


" autumn 


. 172 


Tomatoes 


. 1V!4 


" sheep's head 


• . 175 


Tomato omelette 


. 126 


" split pease . 


. 136 


'* preserved 


100 


' * mock turtle 


. 136 


Trifle 


. 98 


" pigeon 


. 137 


" of fresh fruit 


99 


" gumbo . 


. 138 






" calf s head 


. 138 


U. 




" calf's feet 


. 139 




" calf's ears . 


. 176 


Unbolted wheat bread . 53 


Spinach . 


. 121 






Spices . . 


10 


V. 




Sponge cake (French 


i) . 182 






Squash, summer . 


. 121 


Veal 


. 132 


" winter 


. 121 


Vegetables . 


. 118 


" pie 


80 


Venison . 


. 132 


" pudding 


. 63 


" steaks- . 


. 132 


Strawberry cream 


96 


Vinegar . 


. 152 


Succotash 


. 123 


" honey 


. 151 


Sugar of lemon . 


. 182 


" raspberry 


. 151 


" to clarify 


. 106 






u drops 


90 


W. 




Sunderland pudding 


. 68 




Sweetbreads 


34, 175 


Waffles . 


. 55 


Sweet potato puddin 


g . 64 


'* of rice 


56 


Syrup, lemon 


. 152 


" German 


. 58 






Washing, receipt for 


. 163 






" of colored clothes 163 


T. 




Whey, rennet 


. 158 


Table of digestion 


. 27 


1 ' wine 


. 159 


" " grains, &c. 


33 


Whips 


98, 99 


" " dried fish 


. 34 


Whortleberry pudding . 66 


*« " milk 


34 






" " milk and cc 


coa . 35 


Y. 




Tapioca 


. 160 




" pudding 


. 61 


Yeast 


46,47 


Tarts, rhubarb 


77 







PREFACE. 

The object of this little Manual is to show 
how healthful, nutritious, and even luscious food 
can be prepared, without the admixture of inju- 
rious ingredients. 

The pleasures of the appetite are legitimate 
pleasures. God did not implant the- sense of 
Taste in man to ruin the beautiful structure of 
his body, or to impair the noble faculties of his 
soul. But, like all the other appetites, the appe- 
tite for food may be abused. If its proper 
conditions be violated, the loss of power, pre- 
mature decay, and untimely death, are inevita- 
ble. The life of the offender is deprived of its 
own enjoyment, and of its power of being useful 
to others. 

Observation and science have brought to light 
many of the conditions of health and longevity, 
and an observance of these conditions is one of 
the first steps towards redeeming the race from 
its present degradation. 

There is no more prolific, — indeed, there is 
no such prolific cause of bad morals as abuses 
of diet, — not merely by excessive drinking of 
l 



2 PREFACE. 

injurious beverages, but by excessive eating, and 
by eating unhealthful food. Compounds, like 
wedding cake, suet plum-puddings, and rich 
turtle soup, are masses of indigestible material, 
which should never find their way to any Chris- 
tian table. It looks ominous to see a bridal 
party celebrating nuptials by taking poison. Al- 
though some persons may seem to eat these 
criminal preparations with present impunity, 
yet a book of reckoning is kept for the offences 
of the stomach, as well as for those of the heart, 
and this is one of the deeds 'done in the body, 
for which the doer will be called to account. 

If asked why I pronounce these and similar 
dishes unchristian, I answer, that health is one of 
the indispensable conditions of the highest mo- 
rality and beneficence. Temper, it has been said, 
lies in the stomach, which is physically, if not 
metaphysically, true. Every intelligent dyspep- 
tic knows that he is a worse man when suffering 
under a paroxysm of his malady, than in one of 
his lucid intervals, if we may so call them. Even 
the lucid intervals of the confirmed dyspeptic 
are negatively good and useful rather than posi- 
tively so. Why is not dyspepsia disgraceful, 
like delirium tremens ? When it comes to be so 
considered, as it assuredly will be when the gos- 
pel of the body is fully understood, it will be 
banished from good society. It is a good omen, 
that practical physiologists, even now, begin to 



PREFACE. 6 

feel ashamed of ill health, and feel bound to 
apologize for it.* 

Headaches, in nine cases out of ten, are de- 
rived from the state of the stomach. They are 
so frequent, that men have ceased to inquire into 
their origin, but doggedly accept them, as they 
do foul weather, without either the grace of re- 
signation, or the wisdom of future avoidance. 
Our observation justifies the assertion, that in 
nine cases out of ten, — might we not say in 
ninety-nine out of a hundred, — proper attention 
to diet and exercise, relatively considered, will 
prove an effectual antidote. A few exceptional 
cases may await farther knowledge. Even the 
M rush of blood " to the head, is often remotely, 
if not immediately, occasioned by a rush of food 
to the stomach, though apparently caused by 
hard study, or special disturbance, by anxiety or 
grief, of specific cerebral functions. Whatever 
affects the digestion immediately, affects the 
head mediately. 

The profusions of nature tempt the appetite 
of man. The productions of all the earth are at 
his command. But, for the control of his appe- 
tites, man is endowed with reason and con- 
science. The brute is governed in regard both 
to the quantity and kind of its food by an in- 
stinct, from which it rarely deviates, unless when 

* Several years since, Dr. Sylvester Graham published an apol- 
ogy in the newspapers for having been sick. 



4 PREFACE. 

domesticated, and consequently corrupted, (alas, 
that it must be said,) by its intercourse with 
man. Surely, reason and conscience ought to do 
as much for us, as a blind instinct does for the 
brute. I believe it would, if children were not 
trained amiss. Their habits are placed on the 
side of indulgence, and not of self-control. Rea- 
son and conscience might be a match for the 
appetite alone, but it is scarcely a match for 
appetite and habit combined. What then must 
be the fate of a child whose appetites are in- 
flamed and exorbitant, but whose reason and 
conscience are dormant, or have no higher 
standard than the customs of a self-indulgent 
society ! 

There are three great practical laws to be ob- 
served in the taking of food. One regards the 
time, another the quality, and the third the 
quantity. 

An interval of at least five hours should 
elapse between meals for adults, unless some 
extraordinary exertion has exhausted the sys- 
tem, or something has interrupted or prevented 
the reception of a full meal at the stated hour. 
The stated hours should be regular, and the in- 
tervals between meals should be observed as 
religious fasts. If this be done, whenever fam- 
ilies meet around the social board, they may 
consistently invite the spiritual presence of him 



PREFACE. 5 

who said : " Do this in remembrance of me." Is 
it not a reasonable explanation of the request 
which Christ made to his disciples, to remember 
him " as often " as they assembled at the social 
board, that he wished to associate together the 
life that subsists by eating bread, and the life 
that feeds upon " every word that proceedeth out 
of the mouth of God," — thus ensuring temper- 
ance ? Is it not certain, that if that voice were 
in the ear of every Christian as he sits down to 
the social meal, if every " Grace before meat " 
should recognize that we are to eat, not to grat- 
ify ignoble appetites, but to build up purely and 
devoutly these temples of the Holy Spirit, which 
our bodies were designed to be, we should 
be less likely to pervert God's beautiful pro- 
vision of enjoyment in eating, which is but 
another instance of that overflowing benevolence 
which decks the earth with flowers, and adds 
countless beauties to countless utilities? 

" Grace before meat " would then, indeed, be 
a meaning service, which might arrest the atten- 
tion of the young and thoughtless. It is not 
unworthy of Christ, to suppose him desirous of 
thus sanctifying and consecrating what is so 
daily and hourly perverted. The generations 
might recover their lost vigor under such practi- 
cal interpretation of his teachings. 

As science discloses to us the truths applicable 
to this subject, we are as truly bound to abide 



6 PREFACE. 

by them, as we are by any other truths, from 
any other source. When we see a duty, an 
eternal law binds us to its observance, from 
whatever source it comes. Let us, with our 
advanced civilization, consecrate our cooking 
utensils, as the prophet Zachariah predicted they 
should be consecrated in the " day of the Lord," 
and regard as sacred those laws of health which, 
even in the days of Moses, formed the basis of 
the national code. 

Children who live upon milk, bread and rice, 
(who ought so to live, at least,) require food 
more frequently, for two reasons. One reason is, 
that these articles are digested within two hours, 
whereas animal food and most vegetables* re- 
quire a longer period of time. Another is, that 
the temperature of the body in children, being 
higher, all their functions in more intense action, 
and their respiration consequently more rapid, 
hunger recurs much sooner, and is felt much 
more keenly, than in adults.f Again, as long as 
the body is growing, more food in proportion 
is required, than after it has attained its full 
growth. Liebig, who has investigated this sub- 
ject, says : — 

" The change and metamorphosis of organ- 
ized tissues, going on in the vital process in the 
young, yield in a given time much less carbon 

♦See Dr. Beaumont's Table of Digestion, page 27. 
t See Liebig's Letters on Chemistry. 



PREFACE. 7 

and hydrogen, in the form adapted for the respir- 
atory process, than corresponds to the oxygen 
taken up in the lungs. The substance of its 
organized parts would undergo a more rapid 
consumption, and would necessarily yield to the 
action of the oxygen, were not the deficiency 
of carbon and hydrogen supplied from another 
source. The continued increase of mass, or 
growth, and the free and unimpeded develop- 
ment of the organs in the young, are dependent 
on the presence of foreign substances, which, in 
the nutritive process, have no other function 
than to protect the newly formed organs from 
the action of the oxygen. It is the elements of 
these substances which unite with the oxygen ; 
the organs themselves could not do so without 
being consumed ; that is, growth, or increase of 
mass in the body, — the consumption of oxygen 
remaining the same, — would be utterly im- 
possible. 

" The preceding considerations leave no doubt 
as to the purpose for which Nature has added 
to the food of the young of carnivorous mam- 
malia, substances devoid of nitrogen, which 
their organism cannot employ for nutrition, 
strictly so called ; that is, for the production of 
blood; substances which may be entirely dis- 
pensed with in their nourishment in the adult 
state. 

" Milk contains only one nitrogenized constit- 



8 PREFACE. 

uent, known under the name of caseine ; besides 
this, its chief ingredients are butter and sugar 
of milk. The blood of the young animal, its 
muscular fibre, cellular tissue, nervous matter, 
and bones, must have derived their origin from 
the nitrogenized constituent of milk, the caseine ; 
for butter and sugar of milk contain no nitrogen. 
Now the analysis of caseine has led to the 
result, that this substance is identical in compo- 
sition with the chief constituents of blood, fibrine, 
and albumen. Nay, more, — a comparison of 
its properties with those of vegetable caseine 
has shown that these two substances are identi- 
cal in all their properties, insomuch that certain 
plants, such as 'peas, beans, and lentils, are 
capable of producing the same substance which 
is formed from the blood of the mother, and 
employed in yielding the blood of the young 
animal. 

" The young animal, therefore, receives in the 
form of caseine, (which is distinguished from 
fibrine and albumen, the chief constituents of 
muscle, by its great solubility, and by not coag- 
ulating when heated, as albumen does,) the 
chief constituent of the mother's blood. To 
convert caseine into blood, no foreign substance 
is required, and in the conversion of the mother's 
blood into caseine, no elements of the constitu- 
ents of the blood have been separated. When 
chemically examined, caseine is found to con- 



PREFACE. 9 

tain a much larger proportion of the earth of 
bones than blood does, and that in a very soluble 
form, capable of reaching every part of the 
body. Thus, even in the earliest period of its 
life, the development of the organs in which 
vitality resides, is, in the carnivorous animal, 
dependent on the supply of a substance, identi- 
cal in organic composition with the chief con- 
stituents of its blood. 

" . . . There is added, therefore, by means 
of these compounds, to the nitrogenized constit- 
uents of food a certain amount of carbon ; or, 
(as in the case of butter,) of carbon and hy- 
drogen; that is, an excess of elements which 
cannot possibly be employed in the production 
of blood, because the nitrogenized substances 
contained in the food already contain exactly 
the amount of carbon which is required for the 
production of fibrine and albumen. . . . 

" The carbon and hydrogen of butter, and the 
carbon of sugar of milk, no part of either of 
which can yield blood, fibrine, or albumen, 
are destined for the support of the respiratory 
process, at an age when a greater resistance is 
opposed to the metamorphosis of existing organ- 
isms ; or, in other words, to the production of 
compounds, which, in the adult state, are 
produced in quantity amply sufficient for res- 
piration." * 

* See Liebig's Familiar Letters on Chemistry, applied to Phys- 
iology, Agriculture, and Commerce. 



10 PREFACE. 

From the above it will be seen that the 
quality of children's food should differ from 
that of adults, so far as that it should consist of 
more substances containing starch, gum, and 
sugar. This brings us to our next topic, which 
is quality. 

QUALITY. 

As to the quality of the food, there is no doubt 
that the more simply it is cooked, the more 
easily it is digested. 

Chemical analysis should be the guide for 
the cookery book. 

No one would think of eating raw potash, a 
substance that dissolves metals, but we do not 
hesitate to eat saleratus, which is a modified 
preparation of it, and has the same, though a 
more gradual effect upon the organic tissues 
and the blood. Soda, it is well understood, rots 
cloth and takes the skin from the hands when 
it is put into soap, or even when used to " break 
hard water," as the washerwomen term it ; yet 
we put it into bread and cakes. Our stomachs 
were not made to digest metals, and when we 
powder them and eat them, we try to cheat 
nature. 

Spices were undoubtedly made for use in 
those climates where they grow, but the natives 
of those climates use them much more sparingly 
than we do. We may reasonably suppose that 



PREFACE. 11 

they are more adapted to the wants of hot cli- 
mates than of cold ones, as nature has placed 
them in the former, and yet we saturate our food 
with them, mix them together, destroy the flavors 
of each by so doing, and make a stimulus to 
appetite by a conglomeration, which is a most 
unnatural one, and gradually injures the very 
power of digestion. We thus conceal, also, 
that fine aroma of vegetables and meats which 
distinguishes one from the other, and deprive 
ourselves of the pleasure God designed we 
should feel in partaking them. There is a del- 
icate fruit of the tropics resembling a musk- 
melon, which grows, however, not upon a vine, 
but upon a tree, the taste of which is so finely 
delicate, that a foreigner cannot even perceive it 
at first, but if he does not cover it with pepper 
and salt, as we have seen many foreigners do, to 
" give it a taste," he will, after partaking of it a 
few days or weeks, (according to the simplicity 
or sophistication of his appetite,) appreciate its 
flavor, which is that of the most delicate aro- 
matic nut. In our climate we lose the flavor of 
many vegetables in the same way, by covering 
them with pepper, and also by putting them 
into water below the boiling point when we 
cook them. Every one who is so happy as to 
live in the country, and can gather vegetables 
daily from his own garden, knows the difference 
between them when gathered thus and cooked 



12 PREFACE. 

properly, and those which have been picked, and 
kept for market even one night. 

When substances are used, like rice, corn- 
starch and farina, which have very little taste, 
(rice because it has been so long exposed to the 
air after it is gathered, and corn-starch and fari- 
na, because, from the mode of their preparation, 
they lose a great part of the nutritious ingredi- 
ents of the corn,) a delicate flavoring of spice 
may be used without injury to health. 

Science may at last bring us to the conclusion, 
— and there are already some indications that it 
will do so, — that each climate and region pro- 
duces those articles of food which it is most 
healthful to eat in their respective localities. 
This must be an open question till we know 
more scientifically the relations of nature with 
man, but it has already been remarked by a 
philosophical observer of nature,* that reme- 
dies for local diseases are often found in the 
productions of such localities, and one would 
seem to be the correlative of the other. The 
genius of man has already formed an alliance 
with the powers of nature so far as to naturalize 
many of the productions of foreign climates, 
by due attention to soils and other circumstances 
of growth, and when this can be done, such 
productions may fall under the head of native 

* See Bernardin St. Pierre's " Harmonie des Plantes." 



PREFACE. 13 

growths, and must be regarded as more health- 
ful than those articles which are necessarily 
gathered before they are ripe, and are, therefore, 
not eaten in a normal condition, because they 
never go through the whole process of ripening 
in the sun, in their native soil. The orange 
affords a favorable sample of a fruit that retains 
some of its fine qualities when imported, but 
who that has imbibed its juice under its own 
tree, when it is cool with the morning dew, and 
sweetened by the ripening rays of its native sun, 
can call it the same fruit ? It must be plucked 
when partially green, in order to be transport- 
ed, and the amount of its juice as we eat it 
in this country is, perhaps, one tenth of its due 
portion, and even this has never gone through 
the requisite chemical action. A native of the 
tropics does not swallow the pulp any more 
than we do the rind, but many think they cannot 
afford to buy oranges at a great price for one 
table-spoonful of juice. We can even chew 
the rind, but as a proof of the difference between 
the fruit as we get it, and the ripe fruit in its 
native clime, it may be mentioned that the acrid 
juice of the rind is such when it is perfectly 
ripe, that it so violently and painfully puckers 
the lips, that it must be carefully removed before 
the orange can be eaten in tropical fashion, 
which is by suction. 

The pine-apple is even dangerous when im- 



14 PREFACE. 

ported, receiving it as we do less than half 
ripened. The plantain, fig, and banana, — de- 
licious fruits in their localities, — are nearly taste- 
less when imported half ripe ; and even the sweet 
potato does not do itself full justice. Doubtless 
many of these things maybe acclimated with us 
by suitable arrangements, and will be among the 
future triumphs of scientific agriculture. 

One more thing remains to be said concerning 
the quality of food. The first object of a house- 
keeper should be, to procure unadulterated arti- 
cles. This is very difficult, as we are credibly 
informed that there is no article used for food, 
that is not adulterated, not even common salt. 
But science comes to our aid, also, on this point. 

Mr. Youmans, a young chemist in New York, 
of excellent talent and genius, is now preparing 
a work which will contain pictorial representa- 
tions, to show the crystalline or other forms of 
the particles of all substances used as food, and 
a little practice with his diagrams and a micro- 
scope will enable any one to detect the adulter- 
ations of flour, sugar, farina, arrow-root, corn- 
starch, salt, &c. The demand will create the 
supply, doubtless, as in all other things ; and we 
shall have grocers' microscopes, perhaps even 
kitchen microscopes, at a reasonable rate, as 
soon as society sees the necessity of them. 

Who can wonder that there is no health in the 
world, when our very wheat-flour, sugar, and 



PREFACE. 15 

salt, are adulterated with plaster of Paris, alum, 
and sulphate of copper; and wheat-bread is 
raised with saleratus and soda? Bakers, (I will 
say dishonest bakers, for I presume there are 
exceptions,) purchase a damaged, and therefore, 
a low-priced article, called baker's flour, and 
make bread of it, which appears light and is pal- 
atable, by the addition of one or another of the 
above mentioned ingredients, or by others not so 
injurious, but still unwholesome, such as mag- 
nesia and carbonate of ammonia.* 

This fact makes it very important that bread 
should be home-made. In this country, it is the 
general custom to make bread in families, but as 
our domestics are not scientific, it is absolutely 
necessary that it should not be left to them. The 
temptation is so strong to use any means that 
offer to make the bread acceptable, that cooks 
are induced to make that point sure, by putting 
in the convenient saleratus or soda, which, like 
charity in that particular, cover a multitude of 
sins. If the dough has been put together over 
night, it may have gone on to the stage of ace- 
tous fermentation, and a little saleratus, (more 
than is necessary to sweeten it is often put in,) 

* Bottled fruits and vegetables are adulterated with various 
salts of copper ; cayenne pepper is colored with red lead and Ve- 
netian red, (both highly poisonous,) and with alum and caustic 
lime ; pickles, with salts of copper ; vinegar, with sulphuric acid ; 
and confectionary, with plaster of Paris, and painted with deadly 
pigments and essential oils containing prussic acid. 



16 PREFACE. 

will conceal the fact, and make all appear right. 
It will also save the trouble of kneading well. 
Let the mistress then, if she does not actually 
mix the bread, overlook the process, and it would 
be a good custom if all the ladies in a family- 
would take their turn at every batch of bread 
that is made, and thus ensure its good qualities 
by efficient kneading. Two hours would not be 
too much of kneading. 

Mr. Hecker, of Croton Mills, New York, well 
known as the preparer of farina, has found 
means so to prepare wheat-flour by the addition 
of some innocent ingredient, as to make it pos- 
sible to bake it as soon as it is mixed with water. 
The ingredients he uses are not soda and cream 
of tartar. Physicians and chemists, who know 
what it is, pronounce it perfectly free from inju- 
rious effects, and look upon the preparation as 
betokening an era in the health of society. 

The London Lancet, the leading medical peri- 
odical of the day, Dr. James W. F. Johnston, 
Professor of Chemistry in Durham, England, 
and Dr. James R. Chilton, Professor of Chemis- 
try in New York, have given their names with 
elaborate certificates to Mr. Hecker, recommend- 
ing his patent flour in the fullest terms. Beside 
the convenience of making, and the healthful- 
ness of the bread thus made, Dr. Chilton says, 
it has the advantage of not losing any portion 
of the ingredients of the flour, some of which 



PREFACE. 17 

are lost when wheat-flour is raised with yeast. 
The carbonic acid gas that gives porousness 
and lightness to the bread, is evolved without 
the process of fermentation in the dough. If 
kept dry, this bread will also retain its proper- 
ties for a great length of time, and is therefore 
especially useful to seafaring people. 

Another mode of making light bread, which, 
being well kneaded, requires no time for rising, 
is to mix soda with the flour in the same propor- 
tion as when cream of tartar is used, but instead 
of adding cream of tartar to evolve the carbonic 
acid gas, by which the bread is to be made light, 
pour dilute muriatic acid into the water with 
which the bread is to be mixed, and the effect 
will be produced, leaving only common salt as 
the combination of the acid and the alkali. The 
muriatic acid must be diluted by the chemist, 
for if too strong, it will make the bread taste 
sour, as an excess of cream of tartar does. 

I will speak in this connection of a modern 
preparation, which is especially useful in large 
cities, where it is so difficult to procure good 
milk. It is an article called solidified milk. It 
can only be made of the purest and freshest 
milk, because the chemical processes will not 
take place with any other material. As prepared 
by Dr. Blackford, it is offered either in the form 
of solid cakes, or in granular form, and will keep 
pure many years, when wrapped in zinc foil. It 
2 



18 PREFACE. 

is made by mixing with milk almost its own 
weight of powdered white sugar, and evaporat- 
ing the water of the milk at a low temperature. 
Milk contains only twelve or thirteen per cent 
of solid matter. The tablets now offered for 
sale will return to the condition of pure fresh 
milk, on being disolved in five pints of water, 
cold or warm. The only difference between 
this and milk fresh from the cow, is its sweetness; 
but for all common purposes it is not too sweet. 
It is already prepared for sweetening cocoa and 
other beverages, for custards and puddings. Dr. 
J. H. Griscom, of New York, who was commis- 
sioned to examine this subject, investigated it 
thoroughly, and wrote an able report upon it, in 
which he expresses, very strongly, his opinion 
that when the demand for it will enable the 
fabricators to supply it at a cost of three cents a 
quart, it will make an immense difference in the 
health of cities, where so much sickness is caused 
among the poor by the consumption of vitiated 
milk. The present cost is jive cents a quart, 
which holds it out of the reach of the poor. It 
is a valuable article, however, in the wealthiest 
family, because always at hand and always 
good ; and can be conveniently taken to sea.* 

In reference to the use of tea and coffee as 
common beverages, Dr. Griscom says : — 

* Cream will form upon this milk when left standing ag readily 
as upon that newly milked, and from this cream Dr. G. has made 
excellent butter. 



PREFACE. 19 

" It is undoubtedly the effect of the proxi- 
mate principle of these two substances to sup- 
ply an important element of the bile, and so 
far they may be of value, but the same good 
result may be attainable by other means, and 
their value in this respect I consider as overshad- 
owed by their bad influence upon the nervous 
system. Believing, as a general rule, (to which 
there may be an occasional exception, to be 
determined on its own merits,) that these are not 
innocent articles of diet, I think they should find 
no place in a Physiological Cookery-Book." 

In reference to pastry, I will again quote from 
Dr. Griscom, who has given so much attention to 
these subjects that his opinion is worthy of all 
consideration, and goes to confirm domestic 
observation. The conscientious, Christian lovers 
of pastry need not think their gastronomic 
pleasures are at an end, when I have convinced 
them that the mixture of oleaginous materials, 
like butter and lard, with wheat, is absolutely 
pernicious and unphysiological, for there is yet 
a resource. First, let us listen to Dr. Griscom. 
He says: — 

" Pie-crust and other shortened articles of food 
are almost wholly indigestible by many stom- 
achs, and remain a long time in the stomach, 
producing eructations and other dyspeptic symp- 
toms. The gluten of flour and the oil of lard 
with which pastry is often shortened, are in- 



20 PREFACE. 

compatible substances, incapable of forming 
a chemical compound, and require different 
elements of gastric power to convert them into 
chyme, while their ultimate mechanical incorpo- 
ration renders both inaccessible to the dissolving 
agency of the gastric juice, to which either 
alone readily yields. Hence their long continu- 
ance in an undigested form when mixed. The 
gastric juice will dispose of oils if they are not 
melted, and oils are sometimes positively ben- 
eficial, but never in combination with grains." 

Some chemists question this statement of 
Dr. Griscom, and say that the gastric juice 
exerts chemical agency upon the food, and 
therefore no mechanical incorporation of ingre- 
dients would make any difference, because 
chemical action is independent of all mechan- 
ical combinations. They think the injury occa- 
sioned by the use of fat substances, arises only 
from their excess. 

It is one of the recent conclusions of chemists 
that the pancreatic juice as well as the bile is 
used in the dissolving of fats, but that until 
they reach that part of the alimentary canal 
with which the liver and the pancreas communi- 
cate, they are in a state of fine subdivision, 
comminuted but not dissolved. This fine com- 
minution of the fat evidently cannot take place 
if it is in hard combination with any other 
substance. 



PREFACE. 21 

Experience often determines practical truths, 
before the scientific solution of such truths is 
arrived at. There is no question of the injurious 
nature of shortened bread and pastry. We 
hope chemists will direct their attention to 
the subject until they have arrived at the true 
reason. 

Dr. Griscom says in regard to butter : — 
u I have the highest respect for butter, eaten 
in its natural state. It is very complicated in 
chemical composition; each globule, though on 
an average of only -gVoir of an inch in diameter, 
being formed of an outer film or shell of caseine, 
with a mixture of three different kinds of oil, 
each of which is again composed of an organized 
substance, known in chemistry as the oxide of 
glycyrile, combined with a separate acid. Each 
globule in a recent state is distinctly visible in the 
field of the microscope, and when in unbroken in- 
tegrity is sweet and digestible ; but when old or 
broken, its chemical character alters, new com- 
pounds are formed, and the nutritive property 
undergoes a change. Time alone will effect 
this change, but there is another element which 
will produce it rapidly, viz., heat ; and hence 
the melting process must so alter the relations 
of its chemical constituents, as to impair its 
assimilative properties.* The substitution of 

* Butyric acid, found in melted or rancid butter, corrodes the 
organic tissues like sulphuric acid. 



22 PREFACE. 

cream for butter in cooking, will of course obvi- 
ate all objections to the latter in a melted form, 
and not only this, but you will infuse into the 
food with the cream, other nutritious ingredients, 
such as a portion of the caseine of the milk, 
(which is albumen in a soluble condition,) and 
more or less of the sugar, which is also found 
in milk. A more innocent article than cream, 
or one more digestible and nutritive in cookery, 
can hardly be mentioned." 

With Hecker's patent flour then, — or flour 
mixed with soda and muriatic acid, which make 
a harmless combination, common salt, — and 
cream for shortening, we can still have nice 
pastry, on which the most conscientious physi- 
ologist may ask the blessing of God. 

I will add here what I shall repeat in specific 
receipts, that pastry may be made very delicate 
by substituting well boiled potato for a portion 
of the flour. 

There can be but one objection offered to the 
substitution of cream for butter, and this is its 
comparative inconvenience. It is more trouble 
to a housekeeper to make arrangements for 
gathering cream, than to buy it in the compact 
form of butter, and have it always at hand. 
But on the other hand, cream is far less expen- 
sive, because a smaller quantity of cream, in its 
own form, will better serve the purpose than when 
it is made into butter. If milk is spread in very 



PREFACE. 23 

wide pans, it will afford a great deal of cream, and 
the skimmed milk, from which it is taken, may- 
be reserved to mix with bread, in preference to 
water, especially with Indian corn bread. 

The subject of oleaginous food leads inevitably 
to the consideration of pork as an article of diet. 
The genius of man appears to have discovered, 
at last, the true end for which that much malign- 
ed and also much vaunted animal was created, 
viz., that of enlightening the world (not feeding 
it). As we profess to be guided by science in 
this matter, however, we are forced to listen 
again to Dr. Griscom, who says, that if pork 
could be well fed and trained, it would be very 
useful food in cases of tuberculous consump- 
tion, so common in crowded cities, where people 
cannot have the requisite quantity of oxygen, 
without taking extraordinary measures to obtain 
it. To be well fed and trained, pork must have 
good corn and potatoes to eat, milk when possi- 
ble, plenty of space for healthful exercise, living 
waters to bathe in, and clean straw, high and 
dry, to sleep upon. As meat is universally con- 
ceded to be a product of the food digested by 
the animal, we can imagine even pork to be 
legitimate food when so prepared, and we would 
commend it to the benevolent speculators to 
found piggeries of this unquestionable character. 
The most refined taste or stomach, perhaps, 
would not revolt from partaking of a roasted 



24 PREFACE. 

sucking pig, taken from such surroundings. It 
has been asserted that even the grown animal 
has a natural love of cleanliness, but being very- 
near-sighted, and left to its own resources in a 
false state of society, (false to pigship, which in a 
natural state roams through the forest and feeds 
upon mast,) it cannot afford to be particular 
about its food, and having a natural propensity 
to bathe, feels constrained to bathe in unclean 
water, if it cannot find that which is limpid. 

To speak seriously, let us for a moment con- 
template the circumstances under which pigs 
are raised in cities, amid the abominations of 
distilleries, and too often even in the country, 
where there is plenty of space and fresh air, if 
people only knew for what they are designed ; 
and can we wonder at the spreading disgust 
among the refined to such pork as the markets 
furnish us? In view of these facts, we cannot 
but commend the tuberculous patient to the con- 
sumption of cod-liver oil, as fish-life cannot be 
easily corrupted even by man's neglect, and the 
pure article is undoubtedly useful. Perhaps it is 
hardly benevolent to advert here to the rumor 
that a large proportion of the cod-liver oil sold 
in this country, is manufactured at the "West 
from hog's lard ! But our aim in this work is to 
tell the truth to the public as far as we know it. 

While on the subject of meats, I will add 
that, undoubtedly, wild meat is the most health- 



PREFACE. 25 

ful, because game finds its food by its own 
instincts, and life in the woods and wilds must 
be far more healthful than that which is stall-fed. 
Much has been said by many physiological 
writers against the use of animal food. To 
their arguments we may reply, that fibrine and 
albumen, which are the chief constituents of 
muscle, are also the chief constituents of vegeta- 
bles, and that it is the graminivorous animals 
which feed upon vegetables that constitute our 
animal food. The ingredients then are the 
same, but flesh having once been digested, is 
more easily digested again, and is more stimu- 
lating. In cold climates we need the fats of 
meat to supply carbon and hydrogen to the oxy- 
gen, which, condensed by the cold, will devour our 
very tissues if we do not give it other food. If 
we relinquish animal food for any special reason, 
and such may occur, we should substitute a 
more nutritious diet of vegetables, milk, eggs, 
and fruits, than it is ordinarily convenient to 
procure. Each individual must learn his own 
needs, and eat his proper proportions of animal 
and vegetable food. One iron rule will not do 
for all, and climate must be taken into account, 
as to the proportion requisite. A more watery 
food is good in tropical climates, where the 
atmosphere is more rare, and respiration conse- 
quently not so rapid, but if we live in cold cli- 
mates, we must remember the need of respiratory 
food, that is carbon and hydrogen. 



26 PREFACE. 

Many years since, some very curious observa- 
tions were made, by looking into the stomach of 
a man, who had an orifice in his side, made by 
a gun-shot wound. The subject was a healthy 
young man, named Alexis St. Martin. After he 
had recovered from the effects of the wound, 
Dr. Beaumont, his physician, hired him for some 
years, in order to make observations upon the 
operation of the gastric juice, as it was very easy 
to push aside the membrane that grew over the 
orifice after the wound healed. 

It was found that bulk, as well as nutritious 
matter, was necessary to the process of digestion, 
and this explains why highly concentrated food, 
like finely bolted wheat, is not so healthful as 
the grain in a coarser form, which contains some 
ingredients that are not digestible, but pass out 
of the system. It was also observed that St. 
Martin could not digest well when he was irri- 
tated, or too much fatigued and annoyed by 
examinations. It was also ascertained that the 
temperature of the stomach controlled the diges- 
tion of the food. Cold water after a meal lower- 
ed the temperature of his stomach thirty degrees, 
and it did not recover its natural heat for an 
hour. Cold drinks should therefore be avoided 
after eating. Even ice-water is not injurious 
when taken with a meal, but half an hour after 
a meal it is very dangerous. It is always 
preferable to take ice-creams before a meaL 



PREFACE. 



27 



They then operate as tonics upon the stomach, 
and are healthful rather than harmful. The 
habit of eating oysters in the evening, and 
ice-creams afterwards, as is frequently done in 
large parties, is very pernicious. The order 
should be reversed. 

I subjoin a table which Dr. Beaumont made 
from his observations upon digestion in St. 
Martin's stomach. It shows the time occupied 
in the digestion of different articles, in that par- 
ticular case. In less healthy stomachs, the pro- 
cess would undoubtedly occupy a much longer 
time, and certain articles are wholly indigestible 
by certain stomachs, and produce violent pain. 

DR. BEAUMONT'S DIGESTION TABLE. 



Meats. 

Soused pigs feet, boiled, 
Soused tripe, boiled, 
Venison steak, broiled, . 
Fresh beef s liver, " . 
Wild turkey, roasted, . 

" " boiled, . 
Domestic turkey, roasted, 
Fresh lamb, broiled, 
Roasted goose, .... 
Fricasseed chicken, . . 
Fresh beef, roasted, . . 
Beef steak, broiled, . . 
Mutton soup, .... 
Fresh mutton, broiled, . 

" " roasted, . 

" * boiled, . 

Pork steak, 

Pork, recently salted, 
raw, 



m. 

00 

00 

35 

00 

18 

25 

30 

30 

30 

45 

3 00 

3 00 

3 30 

3 00 

3 15 

3 00 

3 15 

8 00 



Pork, recently salted, 

boiled, 3 15 

Chicken soup, ... 3 00 

Domestic fowls, boiled, . 4 

" " roasted, 4 

Fresh veal, broiled, . . 4 

Beef and vegetable soup, 4 

Old salted beef, ... 4 

Boiled salt pork, . . 4 

Fried salt pork, ... 4 

Wild ducks, roasted, . 4 

Fresh veal, fried, ... 4 

Pork, fat and lean, roas'd, 5 



Tendon, 6 

Fresh beef suet, ... 5 
Oysters, fresh, raw, . 2 
" " stewed, . 3 

Oyster soup, .... 3 
Heart, animal, fried, . 4 
Sucking pig, roasted, . 2 



00 
00 
00 
00 
15 
30 
15 
30 
30 
15 
30 
30 
55 
30 
30 
00 
30 



28 



PREFACE. 



Vegetables. 

h. in. 
Apples, sour, mellow, 

raw, 2 00 

Apples, sour, hard, raw, 2 50 
Apples, sweet, mellow, 

raw, 1 00 

Rice, boiled, . . . . 1 00 
Sago, boiled, .... 1 45 
Raw cabbage, with vine- 
gar, 2 00 

Tapioca, boiled, ... 2 00 

Irish potatoes, baked, . 2 30 

" ' " boiled, . 3 30 

Parsnips boiled, . . . 2 30 

Raw cabbage, head, . 2 30 

Boiled " with vinegar, 4 30 

Beans, pod, boiled, . . 2 30 

Apple-dumpling, boiled, 3 00 

Carrot, orange, boiled, . 3 15 

Turnip, flat, boiled, . 3 30 

Beats, boiled, . . . . 3 45 



h. m. 
Green corn and beans, 

boiled, .... 3 45 

Fish. 

Cured cod-fish, boiled, . 2 00 

Fresh striped bass, boiled, 3 00 

Fresh flounder, fried, . 3 30 

Salmon, salted, boiled, . 4 00 



Fresh eggs, boiled soft, 


3 00 


" " boiled hard, 


3 30 


" •* raw, . . 


. 2 00 


" fried, . . 


3 30 


Milk, raw, .... 


2 15 


Milk, boiled, .... 


2 00 


Tapioca, boiled, . . 


2 00 


Sponge cake, .... 


2 30 


Baked custard, . . 


2 45 


" corn cake, , . 


3 00 


" corn bread, . . 


3 30 


Strong old cheese, . . 


8 30 



ALCOHOL. 

The object of this Manual will not be wholly 
answered if it should fail to enforce all argu- 
ments for temperance. Temperance in eating 
is but one form of that virtue. Temperance in 
drinking also conies under the head of physio- 
logical diet. 

Mr. Youmans has explained so clearly and 
convincingly the evil effects of alcohol upon the 
human system, that little or nothing can be 
added to his statement. A few extracts from 
his excellent " Class Book of Chemistry," which 
should be used in every common school, and in 
every family, and from which many of the most 
valuable physiological hints given in this Manual 



PREFACE. 29 

have been taken, will be sufficient for the present 
purpose. 

" The most striking effect of alcohol upon the 
human system is upon the brain. It is as truly 
a poison to the brain as corrosive sublimate and 
arsenic are to the stomach and other tissues. 
It also acts unfavorably upon the tissues. 

" Its chemical composition is such as to forbid 
its ever being transformed into the animal 
tissues. 

" It has been found that when animals have 
been poisoned by alcohol, which has been intro- 
duced into the stomach, the coats of that organ 
become so thoroughly imbued with it through- 
out their whole thickness, that no washing can 
remove it. The tissues remote from the stomach 
are impregnated with it in the same way, when 
it is introduced into the current of the circula- 
tion. Their substance shrinks, and their chem- 
ical relations are altered. 

" Its effects upon the blood are to prevent the 
coagulation of fibrine, and it is, therefore, an 
obstacle to nutrition, because that vital process 
is impeded by which the solid substances of the 
body are organized or elaborated from the blood. 
Physicians and surgeons testify that the healing 
process in cases of wounds, ulcers, &c, is very 
uncertain in persons who drink largely of spirit- 
uous liquors. 

" When alcohol is introduced into the blood- 



30 PREFACE. 

system in excess, the blood in the arteries 
assumes a dark or venous appearance, and this 
is because alcohol is more combustible than the 
ordinary constituents of blood, and consequently 
attracts its oxygen, and is burned to carbonic 
acid and water. This arrests the natural process 
of oxidation, upon which the vigor of the animal 
powers depends. 

" Alcoholic liquors possess in a remarkable 
degree the power of diminishing the carbonic 
acid exhaled in the breath, and its consequent 
accumulation in the system is probably a partial 
cause of that prostration, both of physical and 
mental power, which attends the advanced 
stages of intoxication. 

" The effect of alcohol upon the nervous sys- 
tem is also special. The selective power of al- 
cohol, by which it fastens upon nervous matter, 
is proved by the fact that it has been found 
diluted in considerable quantity, in the substance 
of the brain of habitual inebriates. The nerves 
are stimulated into unhealthy activity, and the 
heightened action is communicated to the heart, 
quickening the circulation, and the reaction is a 
prostration of all the powers. The human body, 
in its natural state, is incombustible, that is, it 
requires the addition of a considerable amount 
of fuel to reduce it to ashes. But some in- 
stances have occurred, in which spirit drinkers 
have taken fire and been consumed. This fire 



PREFACE. 31 

has been kindled by inflammable vapors in the 
breath." 

When brandy and wine are used in cooking, 
if the articles in which they are used are heated 
to the boiling point, the alcoholic principle has 
escaped entirely, as alcohol boils at a tempera- 
ture of 172°, whereas ivater will not boil under 
a temperature of 212°. Those preserves which 
are put into cold brandy, as peaches often are, 
are subject to the evil effects of alcohol, but 
brandy or wine used as a flavor for pies, pud- 
dings, or cake, are not objectionable for the above 
reason. 

It will be easily understood from the preced- 
ing remarks, that this cookery book will differ 
from all other cookery books, in leaving out from 
the composition of breads, cakes, pies and pud- 
dings, all deleterious ingredients, such as sale- 
ratus, soda, melted butter, lard, suet and other 
fatty substances, in combination with wheat and 
other farinaceous articles of food. Experience 
and observation have shown conclusively, that 
the very best quality of bread can be made 
without any such addition, if proper attention is 
given to the subject by the intelligent house- 
keeper, and that cream will serve all the pur- 
poses of butter, lard and suet, for shortening 
and enriching pies, puddings, and in the prepa- 
ration of vegetables, generally made so unhealth- 
ful by the addition of melted butter. An exami- 



32 PREFACE. 

nation of the very best cookery books shows that 
scarcely a receipt is given without these articles, 
if by any possibility they can be introduced. 

A chapter in the work will be devoted to the 
consideration of diet for the sick. 



CHAPTER I. 



GLUTEN. 



The nutritive quality of grain depends very 
much on the proportion of gluten it contains. 



TABLE OF GRAINS AND OTHER COMMON ARTICLES OF FOOD. 



Wheat, (whole grain,) 
Whole bran, . 
Fine wheaten flour 
Wheaten bread, 
Rye bread, 
Indian corn meal, 
Scotch oatmeal, . 
Rice, 

Buckwheat flour, 
Pulse, averages, 
Turnip, (dried meal,) 
Potato, 
Carrot, 
Onion, . 
Cabbage, (dried,) 
Cauliflower, " 
Mushroom, 
Lean beef, 
Dried flesh, 
Dried oat cake, 



Gluten. 


Fat. 


Sugar and 
Starch, &c. 


Water. 


12 per ct. 


2 


72 




14 to 18 


6 


63 




10 


2 


73 




54 




46* 




5ft 




46£ 




12 


8 


66 




18 


6 


62 




7 to 8 




92| 




10 








24 


2 






12 








8 




92ft 




11 








25 to 33 








30 to 35 








64 








56 








19 


3 






84 


7 






21 


7 


70 





Wild meat and fowls contain much less fat 
than butchers' meat, except when fowls are 
fattened, as the capon, the ortolan, and the 
& [3-3] 



34 



GLUTEN. 



diseased livers of geese, which make the French 
pate fois gras. 

Veal is less fat than beef; pork, fatter. 



Gluten. 


Fat 


Sugar and 
Starch, &c 


Water. 


97 


3 






78 


22 






44 


56 






92 


8 






14 


10i 




72 



Dried skate, • 
" salmon, 

" eel, ... 

" haddock and herring, 



The egg, therefore, is richer in fat than beef, 
but the white contains no fat. The 14 per cent, 
of egg is albumen, which is isomerically identi- 
cal with fibrine and gluten, and can even be 
resolved into them. Albumen and gluten are 
very constipating kinds of food, and should be 
eaten with butter or oil. "When fats are melted, 
a new difficulty in digestion arises, but cold but- 
ter or olive oil are healthful ; never melted butter 
or melted lard. 



Curd or Casein 

answering to 

Gluten. 


Fat 


Sugar of 
Milk. 


Water. 


4i 


3 


4| 


87 



Cow's milk, 

This milk partakes of the nature of both 
vegetable and animal food. The casein is a 
nutritive substance that answers to gluten, fibrine 
and albumen, and the sugar answers to the 
starch in wheaten bread. It is constipating 
when eaten alone. Acid fruit eaten with it 
rectifies its effects upon the digestive powers, 
and even grains modify them. 



GLUTEN. 35 



Curd or 

Casein. 


Fat 


Sugar of 
Milk. 


Water. 


4 

18 


2| 
55 


23 


89 



Human milk, . 
Mexican cocoa bean, 

Cocoa resembles milk more nearly than any 
other variety of human food. 

As the natural food of the young mammalian 
is the milk of its mother, that milk may be 
looked upon as a kind of model food, for the 
species to which the animal belongs. Woman's 
milk, therefore, is the type of human food, and 
after its form and composition all other kinds of 
food should be adjusted, especially in the cases 
of persons whose condition approaches that of 
the child. Hence it seems reasonable to infer, — 

First, that our food ought to contain a due 
admixture of vegetable and animal food sub- 
stances, in which the proportions of the three 
most important constituents, fat, starch or sugar, 
and fibrine or gluten, are properly adjusted.* 

Second, that the food, if not naturally liquid, 
should be intimately mixed with a large quantity 
of liquid before it is introduced into the stomach. 
This lesson we have already learned from the 
study of various natural forms of vegetable food. 
The attainment of these two ends ought always 
to guide the operations of those who wish to 
prepare what will be wholesome for the majority 
of men to eat.f 

* Fat is in very small proportion in milk. 
t See Dr. Johnston's Chemistry of Life. 



GLUTEN. 



Tabular expression 
dried beef, eggs, milk, 
dried oatmeal.* 



Fibrine, casein, albu- 
men or gluten . 
Fat . 

Starch or sugar 
Ash or mineral matter 



of the composition of 
dried wheaten flour and 



Beef. 


Eggs. 


Milk. 


Fine Wheaten 
Flour. 


Oatmeal. 


89 

7 
4 


55 
40 

6 


35 

24 

37 

4 


12 
2i 

83i 
2 


21 
7 

70 
2 


100 


100 


100 


100 


100 ' 



* See Dr. Johnston, &c. 



CHAPTER II. 

COOKING OF MEATS. 

Dr. Johnston says :* 

" The first effect of the application of a quick 
heat to a piece of meat, is to cause the fibres to 
contract, to squeeze out a little of the juice, and, 
to a certain extent, to close up the pores so as to 
prevent the escape of the remainder. 

" The second is to coagulate the albumen con- 
tained in the juice, and thus effectually and com- 
pletely to plug up the pores, and to retain within 
the meat the whole of the internal juice. There- 
after, the cooking goes on through the agency of 
the natural moisture of the flesh. Converted 
into vapor by the heat, a kind of steaming takes 
place within the piece of meat, so that whether 
in the oven, or on the spit, or in the midst of 
boiling water, it is in reality, when skilfully done, 
cooked by its own steam. 

" A well cooked piece of meat should be full 
of its own juice, or natural gravy. In roasting, 
therefore, it should be exposed to a quick fire, 
that the external surface may be made to con- 

* See Chemistry of Common Life. 
[37] 



38 . COOKING OF MEATS. 

tract at once, and the albumen to coagulate, 
before the juice has had time to escape from 
within. And so in boiling. When a piece of 
beef or mutton is plunged into boiling water, 
the outer part contracts, the albumen, which is 
near the surface, coagulates, and the internal 
juice is prevented either from escaping into the 
water by which it is surrounded, or from being 
diluted and weakened by the admission of water 
among it. When cut up, afterward, the meat 
yields much gravy, and is rich in flavor. Hence a 
beef-steak or a mutton-chop is to be done quickly, 
and over a quick fire, that the natural juices may 
be retained. 

"On the other hand, if the meat be exposed to 
a slow fire, its pores remain open, the juice con- 
tinues to flow from within as it is dried from the 
surface, and the flesh pines and becomes dry, 
hard and unsavory. Or if it be put into cold 
or tepid water, which is afterwards gradually 
brought to a boil, much of the albumen is ex- 
tracted before it coagulates, the natural juices 
for the most part flow out, and the meat is 
served in a nearly tasteless state. Hence, to 
prepare good boiled meat, it should be put at 
once into water already brought to a boil. 

" But to make beef-tea, mutton-broth, or other 
meat soups, the flesh should be put into cold 
water, and this afterwards very slowly warmed, 
and finally boiled. The advantage derived from 



COOKING OF MEATS. 



39 



simmering, a term not unfrequent in cookery 
books, depends very much upon the effects of 
slow boiling as above explained. 

" The beef-tea or soup should be made by 
chopping the meat small, pouring upon it its 
weight, or any other desired quantity of cold 
water, and letting it stand a long time in this 
water, and then bringing it slowly to a boil. 
The residual fleshy fibre is tasteless, and will 
not alone support animal life for any length of 
time. Bat, eaten with the tea or beef thus made, 
or with what the tea or soup contains, or made 
into savory meat by the addition of ordinary 
gravy, it will sustain and strengthen the body. 

" If this beef-tea is made by being brought to 
a quick boil, it will not contain so much of the 
nutritious matter of the beef, but it exercises a 
special tonic and exhilarating influence upon the 
system, independent of any directly nutritive 
property it may possess. The meat tea will be 
more nutritious in the ordinary sense, the more 
of the jelly-forming substance of the meat it 
holds in solution. These two teas or soups, (the 
quickly boiled and the slowly boiled,) are suited 
to the digestive powers of different constitu- 
tions. 

" The preservation of meat by salting depends 
upon the separation of water, upon the exclu- 
sion of air, upon the saturation with salt of the 
juice which remains in the meat, and upon the 



40 COOKING OF MEATS. 

formation of a weak compound of the flesh with 
common salt, which does not readily undergo 
decay. But this preservation is attended by a 
diminution in its nutritive qualities, for the juice 
which flows out contains albumen, kreatin, phos- 
phoric acid, and potash. These substances, 
(which the salt causes to flow out by contract- 
ing the fibres,) are precisely the same as are 
more fully extracted by water, in the method of 
making savory beef-tea, and in proportion as 
they are extracted, the nutritive properties of the 
meat are diminished. Hence one reason why 
long feeding on salt meat affects the health, and 
why vegetables and other substances, which are 
capable of supplying what the meat had lost, 
are found to be the best means of restoring it.* 

" As a whole, flesh meat is eminently nutri- 
tious, because it contains all the materials which 
are necessary to build up our own flesh ; but 
remove from it a portion of these materials, and 
the remainder becomes more or less useless, — 
as bricks and stone become useless to the builder 
if we refuse him the requisite quantity of mor- 
tar. 

" There is much analogy between the bread 
and the beef, the vegetable and the animal forms 
of food on which we live. Between the gluten 
of the one and the fibrine of the other, we have 

* Sailors affected with scurvy, from eating salt meat, are some- 
times cured by eating a raw turnip. — Ed. 



COOKING OF MEATS. 41 

also found a very close similarity, and in the 
animal economy they are both fitted and intend- 
ed to serve the same main purpose. 

■ There is also an absolute identity of sub- 
stance, — as regards their solid part at least, — 
among the fatty compounds which are met with 
in the eatable productions of the animal and 
vegetable kingdoms 

" Again when the parts of plants are burned 
in the open air, they disappear for the most part, 
and leave only a small proportion of each be- 
hind. This ash consists of a mixture of various 
substances, spoken of as their mineral, earthy, 
saline, or inorganic constituents. 

" The same takes place when the parts of 
animals are burned ; and the mixture of mineral 
matters obtained, consists, in either case, of the 
same substances, only differing more or less in 
their relative proportions. The same things occur 
in the ash of bread as in the ash of beef. In 
whatever degree, therefore, the nutritive proper- 
ties of our food depend upon the kind of mineral 
matter it contains, it is almost a matter of in- 
difference whether we live upon an animal or a 
vegetable diet." 

From the above tables and extracts, every one 
may see what are the proportions of nutritious 
matter contained in food as it is prepared by 
nature. It is obvious that we should take nature 



42 COOKING OF MEATS. 

for our model, and if we take milk as our special 
model, it will be seen that it contains half as much 
fat as gluten, and quite as much starch, sugar, &c, 
(the non-nitrogenized constituents of food, fitted 
for the respiratory part of digestion,) as gluten. 
Where these proportions vary, we must adjust 
our food to meet the difficulty. Sweet butter 
and sweet olive oil are the most digestible of all 
fats. Experience teaches that the action of fire 
upon these fats so alters their nature, that they 
disturb the digestive powers. When we wish to 
cook fat into our food, let us then take the safe 
resource of using cream. 



CHAPTER III. 

BEVERAGES. 

In regard to beverages, Dr. Johnston says : 
" As to the physiology of these beverages, or their 
action on the system, it appears," that .... 

[These remarks follow a long and interesting analysis of all 
the various kinds of tea and coffee used in the world.] 

" Generally, they all exert a remarkable influence on 
the activity of the brain, — exalting, so to speak, the 
nervous life ; yet they do so in a way different from 
opium or ardent spirits, since they act as antidotes to 
the narcotic influence of the one, and relieve the in- 
toxication produced by the other. They all soothe the 
vascular or corporeal system, allay hunger, retard the 
change of matter, and diminish the amount of bodily 
waste in a given time ; and if this waste must, in the 
healthy body, be constantly restored in the form of 
ordinary food, this diminution of the waste is equiva- 
lent to a lessening of the amount of food which is 
necessary to sustain the body ; — hence their value to 
the poor.* They are indirectly nutritious. Specially, 

* These remarks were designed for a country where the labor- 
ing poor cannot get enough to eat, but no principle can be more 
unsound. The more food an individual can well digest and as- 
similate, the stronger he will be both in muscle and brain. All 
stimulants, therefore, which diminish the demand for the largest 
amount of food that can be well digested and assimilated, dimin- 
ish the productive power of a human being whether considered 
as an animal or a man. — Ed. 

[43] 



44 BEVERAGES. 

they diminish the quantity of the carbonic acid given 
off from the lungs in a given time, and that also of 
urea, phosphoric acid, and common salt in the urine. 
These are the chemical forms in which the lessening of 
the change of matter manifests itself. In the case of 
coffee, it has been ascertained by experiment, that the 
lessening of the waste is due more to the empyreu- 
matic oil it contains, than to the cafeine. The same 
is probably true also of tea. The increased action of 
the heart, the trembling, the headache, and the pecul- 
iar intoxication and delirium which extreme indulgence 
in coffee sometimes produces, are mostly caused by the 
cafeine. On the other hand, the increased action of 
the kidneys, of the bowels, and of the perspiring ves- 
sels, and generally the increased activity of the whole 
system, are ascribed to the action of the oil." 

The Mexican cocoa, the food most nearly re- 
sembling milk, besides its directly nutritive prop- 
erties, possesses also a volatile oil, similar in its 
effects to the empyreumatic oil of tea or coffee. 
Dr. Johnston says : 

" The preparations of cocoa are skilful chemical 
adjustments, made without chemical knowledge, as 
the results of long and wide experience. The advan- 
tage of cocoa over tea and coffee, is its superior nutri- 
tive property, and over beef-tea and other similar 
beverages, is its empyreumatic oil and the principle of 
the bromine, which resembles the principle of theine 
found in tea. It thus unites in itself the exhilarating 
properties of tea, with the strengthening and ordinary 
body-supporting qualities of milk. When milk and 
cocoa are mixed, also, the predominating fat of the 
one, and casein of the other, dovetail into and assuage 
the influence of each."* 

* Mr. Baker, of Dorchester, Mass., has distinguished himself, in 
his day and generation, by his various preparations of cocoa. Ed. 



BEVERAGES. 45 

The discrepancy between Dr. Griscom's and Dr. 
Johnston's opinions of tea, will be observed, but 
both are entitled to respectful consideration ; the 
one from the attention he has devoted to the 
subject of hygiene, the other for his chemical 
investigations. 

TEA. 

One teaspoonful for each person. Pour boil* 
ing water upon it. 

COCOA. 

Boil a small teacupful of ground cocoa-bean 
an hour, in a quart of water. Let it cool, skim 
off the fat and boil it again with a pint of good 
milk. 

bakers' cocoa paste 

Is properly prepared with starch and sugar. 
Three table-spoonfuls boiled in a pint of milk 
and a pint of water for twenty minutes is the 
rule. 

SHELLS. 

This is the outer skin of the cocoa-bean, 
which does not contain the fat. Boil a large 
teacupful two or three hours in a quart of water. 
Keep it boiling. Boil milk or cream to put 
into it. 

CREAM SYRUP 

Is excellent for shells. Two pounds and a 
half of sugar to a quart of cream, boiled in a 
saucepan, cooled in a jar, and then bottled tight, 
will keep for many weeks. 



CHAPTER IV. 

YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, MUFFINS, 
WAFFLES, &c. 

YEAST AND BREAD. 

The most important item of housekeeping is 
bread-making. 

To make good bread, we must first secure 
good yeast. There are three kinds of yeast, from 
either of which good bread can be made. 

DRY YEAST. 

One handful of hops, boiled half an hour in 
two quarts of water ; ten good potatoes, boiled 
half an hour and mashed fine, without removing 
the skins ; strain the boiling water from the hops 
upon the potatoes, add two tablespoonfuls of salt, 
strain the mixture upon one pint of flour ; when 
cooled to the lukewarm point, add one pint of 
good brewer's yeast, and let it rise six hours ; 
when it is finely " up," stir in sufficient sifted 
Indian meal to make it a thick paste. Spread this 
paste upon a cloth or a board, as thick as the 
handle of a case-knife, and let it dry in the dry, 
outward air, without being touched by the rays 

[46] 



YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. 47 

of the sun. It will dry even better if broken up. 
This will take two or three days. When perfectly 
hard, bag this paste, and if hung in a cool, dry 
place, it will be good for use a year. It is excel- 
lent for summer use, because it precludes the 
danger of sour yeast, and excellent for winter 
use for many reasons of convenience. Soak 
half an hour in warm water for use. Sometimes 
this yeast loses its goodness in August. 

YEAST. 

Yeast made for temporary use is prepared in 
the same way, with the exception of the Indian 
meal. Instead of mixing the meal with it after 
it has risen, strain it through a cullender or sieve, 
and put into a stone jug, stopped tight. It will 
keep three weeks in winter, and, under favorable 
circumstances, one week in summer, but in the 
latter season, it is better to make it fresh every 
time it is needed, retaining only so much of it 
as will raise a fresh supply when wanted. 

Sometimes a piece of dough, which has been 
carefully kept several days, will raise a new por- 
tion of yeast. 

SALT RISINGS. 

This is another species of yeast, which makes 
very delicious bread. 

Take a tea-cup full of fresh, new milk, (no 
other will answer,) put into it a third of a tea- 



48 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 

spoonful of fine salt, the same quantity of finely 
powdered sugar, pour upon it enough boiling 
water, (a pint or more,) to scald it thoroughly. 
When it has cooled off a little, stir in half a 
pint of flour, or more, in proportion to the water, 
set the tin dish that holds it into a kettle of warm 
water ; if it shows no sign of rising in three 
hours' time, (the water in the kettle being care- 
fully kept at an even temperature,) sift in a little 
more flour. As soon as it bubbles, leave it en- 
tirely at rest, and in five hours from the first 
scalding of the milk, it will rise beautifully, as 
white as snow. It is fit for use at that very 
moment. If the bread can be mixed with luke- 
warm milk and water, instead of water alone, it 
will be very rich. 

BRAN MIXINGS. 

Pour upon a quart of bran, warm water 
enough to soak it well, and to mix a batch of 
bread. When soaked, strain and heat the 
viscous liquid, and mix the bread with it, in- 
stead of using simple warm water. It adds 
30 per cent, of nourishment to the bread, but 
the bread will not be so white. 

Another mode is to pour cold water upon 
the bran, and then heat it. The extract contains 
a principle found only in the outer coatings of 
the bran which is usually lost by the first bolt- 
ing of the wheat. It is a nutritious principle, 



MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 49 

generally eaten only in the article called cracked 
wheat, which is an excellent article of food for 
dyspeptics. 

BREAD MADE WITH DRY YEAST. 

Boil half-a-dozen potatoes, mash them, and 
strain the water while boiling-hot upon a pint 
of flour. When it has cooled off somewhat, 
add a large table-spoonful of the dry yeast, well 
soaked for fifteen minutes in warm water, and 
stir in a little more flour. Set it in a warm 
place to rise, and when it comes up, mix up the 
bread, putting half a pint of this yeast to five or 
six quarts of flour, and a table-spoonful of salt, 
or more if liked. Put salt and yeast in the 
water. One trial will prove how much yeast 
five quarts of flour will require. The quantity 
will be in proportion to the strength of the yeast, 
and when the requisite quantity is ascertained, 
let flour and yeast always be measured. After 
mixing the bread to the desired consistency, with 
the help of warm water or warm bran mixings, 
set it to rise in a trough or pan, in a warm place, 
and when it has risen light and well, knead it in 
separate loaves, and let it rise a second time in 
pans, which have been well buttered and kept 
warm. It will make very fine bread. The great 
secret of bread-making is to put in enough of 
that ingredient called shoulder or fist. There 
can hardly be too much of this at the second 
4 



50 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 

kneading. The dough will become perfectly 
smooth, and will spring under the hand by its 
own elasticity. If it were kneaded two hours 
it would be all the better for it, and machines 
have already been invented and used for this 
purpose. Pounding with a large wooden pestle 
or roller is very excellent, but a long continued 
process of this sort requires more time and 
strength than an ordinary cook can give. 

It would be a good custom if all the ladies in 
the family would take their turn at every batch 
of bread that is made. The goodness of the 
bread would reward them for the time and labor, 
and it would also prove an excellent exercise in 
gymnastics. 

BREAD MADE WITH WET YEAST. 

Three quarts of flour, half a cup of yeast, one 
table-spoonful of salt, and warm water or bran 
mixings enough to make a soft dough. After it 
has risen once, knead it as above, in separate 
loaves, with ten-shoulder power. 

Remark. — It is more convenient to mix up 
bread at night, and find it already risen in the 
morning, but when this is done, there is great 
danger of its becoming a little sour before it has 
the second kneading. A good housekeeper, who 
is resolved to have no excuse for adulterating 
and poisoning her bread with saleratus or soda, 



MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 51 

will commence her operations in the morning, 
even if the bread cannot be baked until the 
afternoon. It can then be watched, and the 
right moment seized ; the temperature that sur- 
rounds it can be carefully kept equable ; the eye 
will learn to follow all the changes through 
which it passes ; the cook, if the bread -making 
is deputed to a cook, will have less temptation 
to put in the stolen alkali. The bread will, 
undoubtedly, be more Christian than if made 
under other circumstances. 

The best bread contains small and uniform 
pores or vesicles. If bread contains large holes, 
it is either because the dough was too watery, 
or not sufficiently kneaded, the flour too finely 
ground, or the heat of the oven insufficient. 

Dark-colored flour makes the most nutritious 
bread, because it contains most gluten.* Gluten 
is harder to grind than the starch in grain, hence 
the whitest flour, obtained by repeated siftings, 
loses the most of its nutritive principle, gluten. 
Starch remains unaltered by the gastric juice, 
but gluten is digested. The small or tail corn 
which the farmer separates before bringing his 
grain to market, and usually grinds for his own 
use, is richer in gluten than the plump, full-grown 
grain, and is therefore more nutritious-! 

* By dark-colored flour is meant that which has not been too 
much sifted. Flour is sometimes dark because the wheat is not 
good. 

t See Johnston's Chemistry of Life. 



52 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 

" Put a stale loaf into a closely covered tin, 
and expose it half an hour to heat, not exceeding 
that of boiling water, and then remove the tin 
and allow it to cool, the loaf will be as good as 
new. This is because the amount of the water 
is not diminished by time, but only altered in 
its relation to the internal arrangement of the 
molecules of the bread. The gluten of flour 
when once thoroughly wet, is with difficulty 
dried again, and forms a tenacious coating 
round every little hollow cell in the bread, which 
coating does not readily allow the water to dry 
up and pass off in vapor. The dry crust is also 
nearly impervious to water. There are 66 parts 
of water in 100, in the bread we eat." * 

ADULTERATIONS OF FLOUR. 

The presence of alum or other saline matters, 
with which flour is sometimes adulterated, may 
be detected by burning a loaf of bread. 

If 2000 grains of pure bread are burned, they 
will not yield more than from 15 to 25 grains of 
ashes. If more than this is found, some saline 
substance has been added fraudulently. 

The specific gravity of the flour is also in- 
creased by chalk, lime, and gypsum. 

Potato starch may be detected in flour by 
adding nitric acid, which changes the flour to a 

* See Johnston's Chemistry of Life. 



MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 53 

fine orange yellow, but does not affect the color 
of the potato starch. 

Good flour will show the mark of the fingers, 
if pinched tightly. 

UNBOLTED WHEAT BREAD. 

To five pounds of flour well mixed with nearly 
a table-spoonful of salt, add a cup and a half of 
yeast, a cup of molasses, and about a pint of 
warm water. 

Unbolted wheat bread is more wholesome 
than bolted wheat. It should be upon every 
table, and eaten at least a part of the time. 

CORN MEAL BREAD. 

Sprinkle a little salt over a quart of sifted 
Indian meal, mix it with scalding water, stir it 
well. Bake it on a board before the fire, or on 
a tin in a stove. It may be eaten warm, but no 
bread should ever be eaten hot. 

INDIAN GRIDDLE CAKES. 

One quart of sifted Indian meal, four large 
spoonfuls of wheat flour, a quart of new milk, 
four eggs well beaten and a little salt. Bake 
them on a soapstone griddle. ( Corn meal deteri* 
orates in the air sooner than wheat.) 

RYE AND INDIAN BREAD. 

Take four quarts of sifted Indian meal, 



54 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 

sprinkle a table-spoonful of salt over it, pour 
upon it two quarts of boiling water, and be 
careful that all the meal is thoroughly wet. 
When lukewarm, mix in two quarts of rye meal, 
two table-spoonfuls of yeast, well soaked in a 
pint of warm water ; add more water, if neces- 
sary, as Indian meal absorbs a great deal of 
water. Put it into a large, buttered pan ; 
smooth the top by dipping the hand in warm 
water and patting down the loaf. In winter it 
may be placed in a warm place to rise, but not 
near the fire in summer. When it begins to 
crack upon the top, which will be in about two 
hours and a half, put it into a well-heated oven, 
and let it bake three or four hours. Indian meal 
should be well cooked. 

Some persons use sweet milk instead of water, 
but the bread will not keep so well in summer. 
Some persons prefer the corn and the rye meal 
in the proportions of half and half. 

Rye forms a nutritive bread, though inferior in 
this respect to wheat. It produces a laxative 
effect upon the system. Rice has the opposite 
tendency. A mixture of 75 per cent, of rye with 
25 of rice forms a good bread, free from the de- 
fects of both. 

CORN MEAL CAKES. 

To one cup of cream add a quart of new 
milk and a teaspoonful of salt, half a cup of 



MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 55 

sugar and four eggs ; beat in enough fine Indian 
meal to make stiff batter, and bake it in pans 
half an hour. 

CORN MEAL GRIDDLE CAKES. 

Boil a quart of milk, and scald with it as 
much corn meal as will make a thick mush. 
(Yellow meal needs more boiling than white.) 
When it is partially cooled, stir in a table-spoon- 
ful of dry yeast or half a cup of wet yeast, three 
well beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, and two 
table-spoonfuls of wheat flour. Let it stand 
three or four hours, and bake on a hot soap- 
stone griddle rubbed with salt. (It will be 
necessary to rub the griddle with the salted rag 
between every griddle-full of cakes, to prevent 
burning.) Yellow meal is the best. 

MUFFINS. 

Warm a quart of new milk, and stir in two 
cups of rich cream ; add four eggs well beaten, 
a table-spoonful of salt, a cup of yeast or a table- 
spoonful of well soaked dry yeast, and flour 
enough to make a stiff batter ; beat it well with 
a spoon, and let it rise for six hours. Fill the 
muffin rings half full of the mixture, and bake 
them about twenty minutes. 

WAFFLES. 

Add to a quart of milk a cup of rich cream, 



56 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 

a little salt, four well beaten eggs, and flour 
enough to make a thin batter ; heat and rub the 
irons well with salt, fill them and bake them 
very quickly. Grate sugar over them, and eat 
them with cream, or with butter when they are 
not too hot to melt it 



RICE WAFFLES. 

Add a cup of rice, boiled soft and mashed 
fine to the above, with half the quantity of 
flour. 

RYE CAKES. 

To one cup of rye flour add one of Hecker's 
prepared flour, a cup of warm milk, half a cup 
of cream, half a teaspoonful of salt, and four 
eggs ; beat it till it is light, and bake in cups, one 
third full, a good hour. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

To one quart of buckwheat flour add half a 
cup of yeast, a cup of cream, a table-spoonful of 
salt, and make a thin batter with warm water. 
After beating these well together, set the mix- 
ture to rise for about eight hours; heat the 
griddle and rub it with a dry cloth well saturated 
with salt. Bake in small cakes. 

RICE-FLOUR DROPS. 

Rub a table-spoonful of salt into a pint of 
rice-flour, or ground rice ; take a quart of milk, 



MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 57 

and wet the flour with a portion of it. Boil the 
rest and turn the wet flour into it, and let it boil 
till it is a very thick mush, stirring it all the 
time, that it may not burn; let it cool off and 
then add the yolks of four well-beaten eggs; 
beat the whites of the eggs in a flat dish till 
they are all foam, stir these into the warm mix- 
ture and add as much rice-flour as can be stirred 
in with a spoon. With a table-spoon, wet in 
water, cut out the cakes and lay them on a tin 
that has been rubbed with salt ; bake them till 
they are of a delicate brown. 

DROP CAKES. 

Put six well-beaten eggs into a pint of thick 
cream, add a little salt, and make it into a thick 
batter with flour. Bake it in rings or in small 
cups, fifteen or twenty minutes. The same may 
be made with Graham flour. 

CREAM BISCUIT. 

A pint bowl full of light dough that has been 
made wholly with milk, with the addition of a 
small teacup of cream and a fresh egg, will 
make a very nice dish of biscuits. These ingre- 
dients must be thoroughly kneaded together, then 
rolled out to an inch of thickness and cut with 
the top of a tumbler or a cake cutter. Tlace 
them on a tin sheet, and let them rise in a Mod- 
erately warm place ; when well risen, they will 



58 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, 

bake in twelve or fifteen minutes in a quick oven 
or baker. Care must be taken not to bake them 
too long. This mixture may be made into bunns 
by adding brown sugar and essence of lemon. 

RUSK. 

Beat three eggs thoroughly, then beat in a cup 
full of sugar, and a little flavoring to the taste, 
of lemon or nutmeg. • Add a tumbler and a half 
of rich cream which has first been mixed with a 
little flour ; use no more flour than will give it 
consistency enough to be moulded. Let it rise 
all night or all day, and when very light, put it 
upon tins to rise again before baking. Bake in 
a quick oven, fifteen or twenty minutes. 

GERMAN WAFFLES. 

A pint of the richest cream, four eggs, half a 
gill of yeast, a little salt, and flour enough to 
make a batter as thick as for griddle cakes. The 
waffle iron must be heated on hot coals and 
then buttered, one side filled with batter, shut 
up and laid upon the coals ; in a few minutes 
turn it upon the other side. These cakes may 
also be baked excellently on a soapstone griddle 
rubbed with salt. 

RICE GRIDDLE CAKES. 

Boil a tea-cup of rice in two teacups and a 
half of water ; when the water is nearly ab- 



MUFFINS, WAFFLES, ETC. 59 

sorbed, add a pint and a half of milk ; when the 
rice is very soft, let it cool, then add a table- 
spoonful of dry yeast that has been well soaked, 
three eggs, two table-spoonfuls of sugar, a little 
salt and flavoring, and flour enough to make a 
suitable batter for the soapstone griddle. Let it 
rise till it is very light. These will be very good 
with one egg, a cup of cream and no yeast. 

GROUND RICE GRIDDLE CAKES. 

Mix half a teacup-ful of ground rice, very 
smoothly, in a gill of cold milk, and pour it into 
a pint of boiling milk. While boiling hot, add 
a little salt, and stir in flour enough to make a 
batter for the griddle. When cool, half a tea- 
cup of yeast and three eggs will raise it very 
light. 

CREAM CAKES. 

Stir a teaspoonful of salt into a pint of thick, 
sweet cream ; sift in slowly a quart of flour ; 
roll it an inch thick, cut it out with the top of a 
tumbler, and bake in an oven. 

ROLLS. 
Take a cup of sweet cream, the whites of 
three eggs beaten to a foam, a teaspoonful of 
salt risings, and a little salt ; mix in a pound of 
sifted flour with warm milk enough to make a 
stiff dough. Set it in a warm place, and it will 



60 YEAST, BREAD, GRIDDLE CAKES, ETC. 

rise in an hour. Knead it into rolls, and bake 
on a floured tin in a quick oven for fifteen 
minutes. 

IRISH POTATO CAKES. 

Add a cup of sweet cream to a quart of 
boiled, mashed Irish potato. Salt it and stir 
in flour enough to make a paste, (as little flour 
as will answer the purpose,) and bake it on a 
board before the fire, or in a floured tin pan. 

FLANNEL CAKES. 

Beat into a quart of new milk or cream the 
yolks of four eggs and the whites of two, a 
pint of flour, a teaspoonful of salt risings, and a 
teaspoonful of salt. Beat the yolks separately 
from the whites till they are all foam ; stir the 
flour into the egg, then the yeast, then the milk 
or cream by degrees. Beat it well when all 
mixed, and let it rise for three or four hours ; 
bake on a griddle, or in waffle irons. The batter 
must be thicker for waffles than for griddle 
cakes. 



CHAPTER V. 

PUDDINGS. 
BREAD PUDDING. 

To one loaf of bread, well grated, pour two 
quarts of boiled milk or cream, four eggs, (more 
if convenient,) a quarter of a pound of white 
sugar, flavor to the taste, (mace is a very good 
flavor,) and bake an hour. If the boiled milk is 
poured upon pieces of stale bread and left stand- 
ing two hours, they can be mashed and freed from 
lumps with the hand before putting in the eggs. 
Dried currants, that have been well washed and 
swelled in luke-warm water, or raisins, will be a 
good addition to this pudding. If made with 
crackers, it will be still more delicate. Cold 
sauce may be eaten with it, or fruit sauce, if no 
fruit is put into the pudding.* 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

Swell a cup of tapioca, either in water or 
milk, till it has become jelly; add a pint of cold 
milk or cream, five eggs, two cups of sugar, half 

* Stale bread may be made fresh by heating in a covered tin. 

[61J 



62 PUDDINGS. 

a teaspoonful of salt, and the grated rind of half 
a lemon. A cup of raisins or currants will im- 
prove it. Bake it an hour and a half. 

SAGO PUDDING. 

Is made in a similar manner, but requires 
more eggs. 

ARROW-ROOT PUDDING. 

Wet half a cupful of arrow-root with a cup 
of cold milk. Then pour upon it a pint of boil- 
ing milk, in which a teacupful of powdered 
white sugar has been dissolved, stirring it briskly ; 
add four eggs, and lemon juice, or grated rind, 
or mace, according to taste. Line a dish with 
thin potato paste, or bake it by itself, according 
to taste. 

MACARONI PUDDING. 

Soften macaroni over the fire in milk until it 
is tender. Two ounces to the pint will make a 
good sized pudding. Add four or five eggs, a 
teacupful of white sugar, flavor it with lemon, 
peach water, or rose water, and bake it an hour. 

COCOA-NUT PUDDING. 

Grate the cocoa-nut very fine ; take the cocoa- 
nut milk, add to it two cups of rich, sweet 
cream, as much sugar as cocoa-nut by weight, 
five or six well beaten eggs, and a little grated 



PUDDINGS. 63 

lemon. Line a baking dish with thin cream or 
potato paste, and bake it an hour. It may be 
necessary to cover it with paper when partly 
baked. 

PINE-APPLE PUDDING. 

Peel the pine-apple, grate it fine ; take its 
weight in sugar, and add to the sugar two or 
three cups of cream ; beat these to a foam with 
the whites of five eggs ; after mixing this with 
the pine-apple, beat it half an hour, and bake it, 
with or without crust. 

ALMOND PUDDING. 

Pulverize in a mortar half a pound of blanched 
almonds ; beat up eight eggs, a pound of sugar, 
and three or four cups of rich cream till they 
foam ; stir in first the almonds, then the eggs, 
then rose water or lemon juice. Add new milk 
or more cream, and bake it in a deep pudding- 
dish three quarters of an hour. 

SQUASH PUDDING. 

A quart of well stewed and sifted squash, a 
quart of grated bread, a teaspoonful of salt, six 
eggs, a pound of sugar, a flavoring of mace or 
lemon, and a quart or three pints of good cream, 
will make a very nice pudding. Line the pud- 
ding-dish with thin potato paste. 



64 PUDDINGS. 

CARROT PUDDING. 

A pint of carrot that has been stewed well 
and sifted carefully, to three pints of grated 
bread or crackers, added to milk or cream, &c, 
as above, will make a very nice pudding. 

SWEET POTATO PUDDING. 

Sweet potatoes, which are now cultivated at 
the West, make a very delicious pudding, com- 
pounded as above. 

RICE PUDDING. 

Swell a cup of rice, either in milk or water ; 
add a quart of milk, three eggs, or even one, a 
little salt, mace and sugar, and bake in a deep 
dish. 

MARLBOROUGH PUDDING. 

Stew and strain six large apples, add half a 
pint of rich cream, the rind of one lemon, and 
the juice of two, six eggs and six ounces of 
sugar. Line a deep baking dish with rich potato 
paste, (a cup of cream to a quart of mashed 
potato,) and bake it an hour. 

CUSTARD PUDDING. 

One quart of milk, eight eggs, half a pound of 
sugar ; season with lemon or peach, pour it into 
a pudding dish wet with cream, set the pudding 
into a pan half full of water, and put them into 
the oven to bake for three quarters of an hour. 



PUDDINGS. 65 

If preferred, line the baking dish with delicate 
cream paste. Less egg will make a good 
custard. 

BOILED INDIAN PUDDING. 

Four teacups of Indian meal scalded with a 
quart of boiling water, two teaspoonfuls of salt, 
two gills of molasses. Tie in a cloth so as to 
let it swell one third, and boil three hours. Two 
cups of stewed apple will improve it. This 
pudding is very good eaten with roast beef as a 
vegetable. 

BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. 

Put four heaping table-spoonfuls of Indian 
meal into a pan ; mix with it a teacup of molas- 
ses, and a teaspoonful of salt. Boil three pints 
of milk with orange peel ; pour it scalding hot 
upon the meal, stirring it briskly the while, that 
it may not become lumpy ; wet a deep pudding 
pan with cream, and pour in the pudding ; lastly, 
pour gently over the top a tumbler full of cold 
milk or cream ; bake it four or five hours in a 
hot oven. If it scorches upon the top, cover it 
with paper lightly. 

ANOTHER BAKED INDIAN PUDDING. 
Boil one quart of milk, and pour it scalding 
hot upon half a pint of Indian meal; after it 
has cooled a little, beat four eggs thoroughly 
5 



66 PUDDINGS. 

with two cups of brown sugar, and a cup of 
cream. Bake it three hours. 

FLOUR AND INDIAN PUDDING. 

Four table-spoonfuls of flour, four of Indian 
meal, four eggs, one quart of boiling milk, one 
cup of molasses, one teaspoonful of salt ; pour, 
a cup of cream over it just before it goes into 
the oven. Bake three hours. 

WHORTLEBERRY PUDDING. 

One pint of milk, three eggs, flour enough for 
a stiff batter. When these are well mixed, add 
three pints of berries, and tie the whole pretty 
tightly in a floured cloth, and boil it two hours 
and a half. Serve with cream sauce. 

A COLD FRUIT PUDDING. 

Stew together one quart each of whortleberries, 
raspberries, blackberries, a pint of currants, and 
a pound of brown sugar. 

Cut a brick loaf into thin slices, and line with 
them a deep bowl. Pour in a layer of the fruit, 
then a layer of thin bread, and so alternately 
until the bowl is full. Lay a plate upon the 
bowl, which will go easily within the circum- 
ference of it. Lay a heavy weight upon it and 
let it stand several hours, perhaps all night. 

Serve with cream or cream sauce. Any sweet 
and acid fruit combined will answer. 



PUDDINGS. 67 

BOILED BATTER PUDDING. 

Eight eggs, eight spoonfuls of flour, one quart 
of milk ; beat these together very thoroughly ; 
put the mixture into a well floured cloth or a 
water rinsed mould, and boil one hour. Serve 
it with cold sauce. If more flour and less egg 
is used, boil it longer. 

The same pudding may be baked in an oven 
three quarters of an hour. 

BOILED BREAD PUDDING. 

Pour a quart of boiled milk or cream upon a 
pound of grated or thinly shaved bread. Let it 
soak thus for an hour or two, and then mash it 
and mix it finely together ; add four or five 
beaten eggs, two cups of sugar, a little lemon 
juice or essence of lemon, or a little mace pow- 
dered with fine sugar. Bake it two hours. Add 
raisins, or a flavor of wine for boiling, and let it 
boil four hours. 

AN INNOCENT PLUM PUDDING. 

Ten or a dozen soft crackers may be broken 
into a quart of good milk or cream. Let it 
stand thus all night, and in the morning rub the 
whole through a cullender. Add eight eggs, a 
pound of sugar, a cup of molasses, a cup of 
wine, a table-spoonful of salt, the grated rind of 
a lemon, half a teaspoonful of mace, a quarter 
of a pound of citron, a pound of currants, and 



68 PUDDINGS. 

a pound and a half of stoned raisins. Let it be 
boiled five hours, and served with cold sauce of 
braided sugar and butter and white of egg. 
Leave out the suet, cloves, nutmeg and brandy, 
that render plum pudding so deleterious. 

SUNDERLAND PUDDING. 

Make a batter as for a batter pudding, and 
bake it in small cups. Fill the cups two thirds 
full, having wet them previously with sweet 
cream. 

RICE PLUM PUDDING. 

Half a pound of rice, half a pound of raisins, 
half a teaspoonful of salt ; tie it in a cloth, and 
boil it two hours and a half. To be eaten with 
sweet sauce. 

BAKED RICE PUDDING. 

Swell a large cup of rice, in milk or water, 
(milk being preferable,) add to it when swelled, 
a quart of milk, five eggs, two table-spoonfuls of 
brown sugar, or a cup of molasses, a little mace 
or cinnamon, a teaspoonful of salt, and a cup of 
rich cream ; bake it an hour and a half. If the 
rice is put into cold milk unswelled, and baked 
immediately, bake it three hours. It will be a 
very good pudding with two eggs, or with the 
cup of cream left out. Raisins may be added if 
desired. 



PUDDINGS. 69 

MIRROR PUDDING. 

Eight well beaten eggs, and a pound of pow- 
dered sugar, two cups of rich cream flavored 
with lemon ; set it on the fire and stir it till it 
thickens. The best way to do this is to put it 
in a pitcher, and set it into a kettle of warm 
water, not boiling, or it will crack the pitcher. 
Stir it till it thickens, then set it to cool. Line 
a dish with delicate cream paste, put in the pud- 
ding with a few strips of citron, if at hand. 
Bake it nearly an hour in a moderate oven, 
covering the rim if it burns. 

Eugenie's pudding. 
Grate three fourths of a pound of stale bread, 
and mix it with three cups of rich cream, three 
cups of chopped apples and dried currants, five 
eggs, and the rind or juice of a lemon. Put it 
into a mould and boil it three hours. Serve it 
with cream sauce. 

CRANBERRY PUDDING. 

Stew a quart of cranberries in as little water 
as possible ; strain it, then sweeten it well and 
let it cool. Make a potato and cream paste, 
over which spread the cranberries an inch thick. 
Roll it in a floured cloth, and tie it at both 
ends closely. Boil it two hours, and serve it 
with sweet sauce, or cold sauce made of sugar 



70 PUDDINGS. 

and cold butter well braided together. Any 
kind of fruit will answer as well as cranberries. 

CORN PUDDING. 

Cut lengthwise and scrape from the cobs, 
eighteen ears of sweet corn ; add a quart of cream 
or milk, and three eggs ; sugar and salt to the 
taste. Bake it slowly three hours. 

QUINCE PUDDING. 

Stew eight quinces without peeling them, sift 
them through a coarse sieve. A pint of cream, 
half a pound of sugar, six eggs, and a little cin- 
namon, will make a very delicious pudding. 

NAPOLEON PUDDING. 

Six eggs, six chopped apples, six ounces of 
grated bread, six ounces of dried currants, six 
ounces of sugar, and a little salt. Boil it two 
hours, and serve with cream sauce. 

A RACHEL PUDDING. 

Line a dish with slices of bread wet with 
cream, slice apples very thin, (save the parings 
and cores of apples for jelly,) sprinkle them with 
sugar, flavor them with orange peel, lemon peel, 
or anything agreeable to taste; put in alternate 
layers of thin bread and apple, and reserve some 
bread that will fit the top of the dish ; set a plate 
upon the top to keep it well pressed, and when 



PUDDINGS. 71 

it is nearly done, take off the plate that it may 
brown on top. 

GROUND RICE PUDDING. 

One pint of milk, half a pint of ground rice ; 
wet the flour with some of the milk ; boil the 
rest and pour over the wet flour, stirring it that 
it may not lump, return it to the fire, and boi] 
till a very thick mush. Great care must be used 
to prevent its getting burnt ; stir it all the time ; 
when done stir in half a cup of cream, and half 
a teaspoonful of salt. Take two or more eggs, 
beat the whites on a large flat dish with a case 
knife, till they are all foam, beat the yolks 
separately, season with a little lemon juice; 
before the rice and milk are cool, beat all to- 
gether, put into a water-rinsed dish, and bake an 
hour. 

Note. — Everything that is made of rice is very wholesome. 
Rice is an absorbent, corrects an acid stomach, and even when 
mixed with rich ingredients, tends to neutralize their deleterious 
qualities. 

POTATO PUDDING. 

To one quart of potatoes well boiled and 
mashed, add half a pint of boiled cream, four 
eggs, (beating the whites separately,) a teacup- 
ful of white sugar, some grated lemon peel, or 
other flavoring, and bake it an hour. 



72 PUDDINGS. 

APPLE DUMPLING. 

Line a bowl with potato paste, allowing the 
paste to come a little over the edge. Pare some 
apples and fill the bowl ; scatter in a little orange 
or lemon peel, or a little cinnamon, or pour in a 
wine glass of Madeira ; when the bowl is quite 
full, cover with paste, turn over the edges and 
wet them with water and pinch them together; 
set the bowl into the oven, or slip out the dump- 
ling into a well floured cloth, and boil it in 
water already boiling. 

LEMON PUDDING. 

Half a pint of rich cream, four eggs, a glass 
of wine, the grated rind of two lemons with the 
juice and pulp ; salt and sugar to the taste. 
The sugar, eggs, lemon, and wine, should be 
stirred into the boiled cream when it has been 
cooled off, to prevent curdling. Four oranges 
and less sugar, for an orange pudding. 



Wash twelve apples, take out the cores, but 
do not open them all the way through, wet a 
dish with cream, and lay them into it ; fill the 
holes in the apples with sugar, orange peel or 
mace, or the gratings of a lemon. Pour over 
them a custard, or a nice batter, and bake an 
hour. Eat with cold sauce. 



PUDDINGS. 



73 



APPLE INDIAN PUDDING. 

Scald half a pint of Indian meal with milk, 
add three table-spoonfuls of molasses, a cup of 
cream, a teaspoonful of salt, six apples cut into 
small pieces, and bake it three hours. 

INDIAN PUDDING THAT CAN BE USED AS A VEGE- 
TABLE WITH CREAM GRAVY. 

Scald Indian meal thoroughly, tie it up tight 
in a bag, and boil it three hours. 

RYE PUDDING. 

Put three large table-spoonfuls of rye-meal into 
a pint of cold milk or cream, add a little salt and 
three or four eggs. Boil it an hour in a bowl 
wet with cream. 

BATTER PUDDING. 

A quart of cold milk or cream, nine eggs, 
twelve spoonsfuls of flour, a little salt, and flavor- 
ing to the taste. Boil in a well floured cloth, an 
hour and a half. 

This batter can be baked in little cups wet 
with cream. They will bake in an hour. 

' ohio pudding. (Delicious.) 
One fourth of baked and mashed sweet pota- 
to, one fourth of well strained squash or carrot, 
two fourths of finely grated bread, one quart of 
milk or cream, four table-spoonfuls of brown 
sugar, four eggs, flavoring to the taste, a tea- 



74 PUDDINGS. 

spoonful of salt. Bake three hours in a moder- 
ate oven, and eat it with cold sauce, or when it 
is partially cooled, sift loaf sugar over it. 

COLD PUDDING SAUCE. 

Half a pound of fine-powdered sugar, half a 
pound of butter, beat to a froth with the hand ; 
now beat in a cup of cream. Flavor with grated 
lemon rind, or a little lemon juice. 

HOT PUDDING SAUCE. 

Boil half a pint of cream, and turn it upon 
half a pound of powdered sugar. Boil it once 
more, and flavor with lemon or peach. 

FRUIT SAUCE. 

Stew a dozen plums or cherries. Boil a pint 
of cream, and pour it over a pound of powdered 
sugar ; add the fruit, flavored with lemon or rose 
water. 

SUGAR SAUCE. 

Boil a pint of sifted brown sugar ; add a cup 
of sweet cream. 

A GERMAN SAUCE. APPLE CREAM, FOR PUDDING 
SAUCE, OR TEA SAUCE. 

Beat up six large baked apples deprived of 
their skin after baking, with an egg and a table- 
spoonful of cream. Beat the white of the egg 
separately, and pour it upon the top. 



CHAPTER VI. 

PASTRY. 

This is the article of food which is most dele- 
terious to health. It is usually made with butter 
or lard, — lard making the handsomest pastry, 
butter the best tasted. But it is hoped that society 
is ready for reform upon this point. Very good 
pie-crust can be made with potato and cream, 
without either butter, saleratus, or soda. 

POTATO PIE-CRUST. 

Put a teacupful of rich, sweet cream, to six 
good sized potatoes, after they have been well 
boiled, (see boiled potatoes,) and mashed fine. 
Add salt to the taste, and flour enough to enable 
you to roll out the crust. Handle it as little as 
possible. It is better not to put crust at the 
bottom of a pie if the fruit is very moist, for it 
will be clammy from the moisture, but let the 
under crust only cover the rim of the plate. 
Prick the upper crust to let out the steam, else 
the syrup will run over. This paste is excellent 
for apple dumplings, or meat pie, and may be 
eaten with impunity. 

[75] 



76 PASTRY. 

This is the only pastry that a good mother 
ever ought to put upon her table. Pastry made 
with lard and butter is sufficiently injurious to 
the stomach to destroy digestion, by taxing too 
severely the most healthful stomach of the most 
healthful child, or even parent. Its effects may 
not be manifest immediately. Nature's punish- 
ments are often slow, though sure. It takes a 
long time to exhaust all the resources of nature, 
which will gently treat abuses as accidents for a 
time, but let the confirmed dyspeptic review his 
early life, and ask himself the question honestly, 
" has my food always been innocent ? " before 
he complains. 

Too much cannot be said upon this subject. 
If one cannot procure cream for pastry, make 
puddings of bread and fruit, as directed in 
another part of this Manual. Bread, well satur- 
ated with the juice of stewed fruit, is as savory 
to a healthy palate as rich pastry, and may be 
eaten with the addition of cold butter, if no 
cream can be obtained. In this connection, we 
would recommend a cow as the most valuable 
possession for a family of children. It would be 
better to have a less expensive carpet, or chimney 
ornaments, or even bonnet and cloak, and have 
a friendly cow in the shed or barn. 



PASTRY. 77 

We give no receipt for minced pies, except 
for 

APPLE MINCED PIES. 

Chop twelve apples, beat up six eggs, add 
half a pint of cream, with sugar, raisins, cur- 
rants, or citron, to the taste, and a glass of good 
wine, or a little spice for flavoring. If any one 
thinks these pies will be improved by a portion 
of chopped meat, it can be added. For such a 
pie, or for any pie that has moist contents, it is 
better to bake the under-crust first, and then put 
in the contents and cover the top with a thin 
paste which will soon bake. 

If Hecker's prepared flour can be procured, 
pastry can be made of it with the addition of 
cream without the potato. It may be mixed 
even with water and be palatable, but can hardly 
be called pastry in that case. 

CHERRY PIES. 

The common red cherry makes the best pies. 
Five spoonfuls of sugar to every pie baked in a 
deep dish. 

Unripe fruit should never be used even in 
cooking. 

Any kind of ripe fruit is good for pies. 

RHUBARB TARTS. 

Peel the rhubarb, cut it into inch pieces, wrap 
them in a cloth to absorb some of the juice. 



78 PASTRY. 

Stew them gently in their own juice ; cover 
them closely, and when they are softened a little, 
add sugar to the taste. Do not let them stew 
long enough to be broken. Bake the pie-crust 
before you put in the rhubarb. Lemon is the 
proper flavoring for this plant. These tarts need 
no upper-crust, but merely a rim and strips laid 
across tastefully. 

CRANBERRY TARTS. 

Like the above. 

APPLE PIES. 

These may be made with stewed apple, with 
the addition of rich cream and an egg, and such 
flavoring as suits the taste, grated lemon, lemon 
juice, mace, or orange peel. 

They may also be made with raw apple, sliced 
very fine. After they are partly baked, lift the 
upper crust a little, and pour in rich cream, 
beaten with an egg, and sweetened and flavored 
to the taste. Bake from an hour and a half to 
two hours. 

PAN-DOWDY. 

Fill a dish with stewed apples, sweetened and 
flavored. Cover it with a good paste of dough 
that has been mixed with milk; when this is 
baked nearly enough, take it off and break it 
into the apple and replace it in the oven. If the 



PASTRY. 



79 



whole has become somewhat dry, pour over it a 
teacup of rich cream. 

DRIED APPLE PIE OR DRIED PEACH PIE. 

When dried fruit is used, it must be soaked 
over night in cold water, then stewed in the 
same. If the peaches are whole, do not stone 
them. The stones of fruit contain a fine flavor, 
which adds very much to the taste of the pie. 
When the pastry is closed around the edges of 
a pie containing stewed fruit, wet the edges with 
cold water carefully around the whole circum- 
ference, and prick the top, to prevent the escape 
of the syrup. Free-stone peaches do not require 
such long cooking as cling-stones. 

Dried fruit is very unwholesome unless well 
soaked. 

CREAM PIE. 

Boil and sweeten the cream, flavor it with 
grated lemon, bake the pastry first, and then 
pour it in and bake it till of suitable consistency. 
This makes a delicious pie. 

CHICKEN PIE. 

Put the chickens into boiling water for fifteen 
or twenty minutes, having only as much water 
in the kettle as will barely cover them. Cut 
them up carefully in a dish and remove the skin, 
if it is very thick. Put it into a deep dish cov- 



80 



PASTRY. 



ered with paste already baked, in layers, mixing 
in the chopped hearts and livers, and sprinkling 
each layer with flour and salt and a little mace. 
When you have filled the dish, pour over it as 
much of the liquor, in which the chickens were 
boiled, as the dish will hold. Wet the edges of 
the pastry with water, lay on the top crust, close 
it carefully at the edges, prick it well, and bake 
it till the top crust is done. The crust for a 
chicken pie should be thicker than that for a 
fruit pie. Rich cream added to the liquor will 
improve it. 

squash or pumpkin pie. ( Squash is the nicest.) 
Steam the squash, strain it carefully through 
a sieve, add two, four, or six eggs, according to 
convenience, to eight table-spoonfuls of squash, 
one quart of boiled new milk or cream, a glass 
of wine, a lemon, (the rind being grated,) and 
sugar, salt, and mace, to the taste. This pie 
needs only an under-crust and an edge. 

OYSTER PIE. 

Line the pans or plates with paste, and bake 
it. Take a quart of oysters and put the juice 
into a saucepan with half a teaspoonful of mace, 
a glass of wine, the juice of a lemon, and when 
this is scalded, pour in a cup of cream thickened 
with a little flour. Add the oysters now and let 
them come to one scald, and lay them directly 



PASTRY. 81 

into the already prepared dishes. If you wish 
for an upper-crust, let it be baked separately on 
thin tin sheets and laid upon the oysters when 
they are put into the dish. 

These pies will be very good without the wine 
or any flavoring, but a little salt. 

SCOLLOPED OYSTERS. 

Take out of the liquor two quarts of oysters, 
grate a loaf of bread, or eight soft crackers. 
Wet the pie dish with cream, sprinkle a thick 
layer of crumbs, and put on them a layer of 
oysters seasoned to the taste ; pour over them a 
little rich cream, add another layer of crumbs 
and oysters, and thus alternately till the dish is 
filled. Turn over the whole as much oyster 
liquor as will fill the dish, and let it brown 
twenty or thirty minutes in the oven. 

LEMON PIE. 

The rind of two lemons grated, the pulp chop- 
ped fine, after the white skin is removed, eight 
table-spoonfuls of sugar, two eggs well-beaten, 
and the whole stirred together. Line a plate 
with very thin paste, and put in a thick layer of 
the lemon. Cover this with another thin crust, 
and fill up the dish with the lemon. Cover it 
with a thin layer of paste, and bake it from fif- 
teen to twenty minutes. 
6 



03 PASTRY. 

ORANGE PIE. 

This should be made as above, with much 
less sugar. 

CORN PIE. 

To twelve ears of green corn grated, add half 
a pint of rich cream, two eggs, salt to the taste, 
a little mace, and a picked lobster. Stir all to- 
gether, and bake it with or without thin paste. 

SHRIMP PIE. 

To a plate of lobster cut up, add a slice of 
bread, previously soaked in tomato juice, a glass 
of wine, some grated nutmeg or mace, a little 
salt, and a cup of rich cream. Stir and bake 
till brown. 

RICE PIE. 

To a pint of rice boiled soft, add a pint of 
rich cream, two eggs, salt, and a little mace. 
Let these ingredients be well mixed, spread half 
the quantity in a deep baking dish, lay pieces of 
chicken upon it, and cover them with the re- 
mainder of the rice, and bake it in a hot oven. 

CHARLOTTE A LA P0MME. 

Cut stale bread into thin slices, dip them in 
rich cream, place them round a dish or bowl, 
and fill it up with preserved or stewed apples. 
Season with grated lemon peel or cinnamon, lay 



PASTRY. 83 

some thinner pieces of bread soaked in cream, 
over the top, and brush them with a feather 
dipped in egg. Bake it till slightly brown. 

CUSTARD PIE. 

Eight eggs to a quart of rich, boiled cream or 
milk, (less egg will do very well,) seasoned with 
lemon or cinnamon, and a little salt. Line 
plates with good paste, and set them in the oven 
a few minutes to harden ; then pour in the cus- 
tard and bake twenty minutes. 



CHAPTER VII. 

CAKES ; EDGINGS ; ETC. 
SPONGE CAKE. 

This cake, if made right, is the least injurious 
of any form of cake, because it contains no but- 
ter. But it is very difficult to make it good. 
Eggs must be perfectly fresh, in the first place. 
They should be kept in cold water the night 
previous, and the whites should be beaten in a 
cool place, separately, and to a thick froth, with 
a cork stuck cross-wise upon a fork, and without 
stopping once. The sugar should be added to 
the whites after they are so beaten, and then the 
yolks, after being thoroughly beaten. This order 
is very important, and care should be taken that 
no portion of yolk should be mixed with the 
whites. It should also be done quickly, each 
ingredient being well prepared previously. Some 
persons stir the sugar into the yolks, but this is 
not so surely successful. Others add the whites 
to the yolks after both are thoroughly beaten, 
and then mix the flour and sugar, and stir them 

[84] 



CAKES. 85 

in. This is better than putting sugar ana yolks 
together, but hardly as sure as to put sugar and 
whites together. A little rich cream, added to 
the above ingredients, will keep it moist longer, 
but too much will make it heavy. 

Various proportions of egg, flour, and sugar 
are used. 

PROVIDENCE SPONGE CAKE. 

The weight of ten eggs in sugar, of six in 
flour, and a little salt. 

NEW YORK SPONGE CAKE. 

One pound of flour, one and a half of sugar, 
fifteen eggs, the rind of two lemons grated, and 
the juice of one, and a little salt. 

BOSTON SPONGE CAKE. 

Three quarters of a pound of flour, one and a 
quarter of sugar, twelve eggs, one lemon, juice 
and rind, a little salt. 

OHIO SPONGE CAKE. 

A pound of sugar, a pound of flour, twelve 
eggs, two table-spoonfuls of cream, the grated 
rind and juice of a lemon, and a little salt. 

Flour must not be beaten into sponge cake, 
but gently mixed and baked immediately by a 
quick fire. If all is right, the cake will rise lightly 
in five minutes, and be baked in fifteen. 



86 CAKES. 

GROUND RICE SPONGE CAKE. 

The weight of nine eggs in sugar, and of six 
in ground rice ; lemon and salt as above. This 
will require longer baking. 

CUP-CAKE. 

Three cups of the richest cream, five of flour, 
five eggs, a little salt, and a lemon, or wine. 
Currants may be added to this if desired. 

FROSTING. 

Five pounds of finest sifted loaf sugar to five 
whites of eggs. It will require two hours to 
beat this to make it stay where it is put. After 
the cake is baked, lay it on the loaves and re- 
turn it to the oven till the outside is hardened. 
Flavor it with lemon or rose water. 

LEMON CAKE. 

To eight eggs and a pint of very rich cream, 
put a pound of flour, and a pound of sugar, the 
rind of two lemons, and half the juice of one. 
Bake it quickly. 

KISS CAKES. 

Five pounds of sifted loaf sugar to five whites 
of eggs, beaten two hours in a cool place. 
Flavor with lemon or rose water. Drop a few 
drops of water upon a sheet of paper laid upon 
a shallow tin, and drop the mixture upon the 



CAKES. 87 

wet spot. Bake in a moderate oven to a pale 
brown or cream color, probably fifteen minutes. 

One egg and one pound of sugar will make a 
great many. 

SNOW-CAKE. 

One pound of flour, one of crushed sugar, 
half a pound of rich cream, the whites of six- 
teen eggs, beaten two hours. 

COCOA-NUT CAKE. 

One grated cocoa-nut, half the weight in 
sugar, the white of an egg^ beaten to a stiff froth, 
mixed thoroughly and dropped on white paper, 
laid upon tin sheets. 

SOFT SUGAR GINGERBREAD. 

A quart of rich cream, three pounds of flour, 
two of sugar, (white is the best,) half a tea-cup 
of ginger, or the juice and rind of a fresh lemon. 
This will keep a long time, and when it becomes 
dry, it can be renewed by being heated to the 
boiling point in a covered tin, like any other 
cake. If brown sugar is used, it should be sift- 
ed and heated very hot. 

ANOTHER. 

Five and a half cups of flour, two of molasses, 
two of sweet cream, and two teaspoonfuls of 
ginger. 



88 



CAKES. 



SHAKESPEARE CAKE. 

Six cups of flour, one of sugar, one of rich 
cream, eight eggs, and a nutmeg. 

AUNT HANNAH CAKE. 

Half a pint of molasses, three cups of rich 
cream, fifteen table-spoonfuls of flour, two of 
ginger, three eggs, and a little grated orange 
peel. Bake half an hour in tin pans. 

ALMOND CAKE. 

Half a pound of blanched almonds, pounded 
in a mortar with a little rose-water; sift and 
warm half a pound of flour ; warm a pound of 
sugar, and break nine eggs into it, leaving out 
seven of the whites ; beat it an hour, and then 
put in the flour and almonds, and stir all to- 
gether; bake an hour in a pan or box, lined 
with buttered paper. These may be baked in 
drops. 

COCOA-NUT DROPS. 

Beat the white of one egg to a froth, flavor 
it with rose-water or lemon, stir in a pound of 
sifted sugar, add a cocoa-nut grated, and mix 
all together with the hand ; roll them up in small 
balls, and bake them in a quick oven till they 
are brown, on wet paper laid upon tin sheets. 



CAKES. 



89 



CREAM CAKES. 

One pound of flour, half a pint of rich cream ; 
pour one pint of boiling water upon the cream, 
and put it over the fire ; as soon as it begins to 
boil, stir in the flour ; when it is cool, add nine 
well-beaten eggs. 

To make custards for them, take a pint of rich 
cream, three well-beaten eggs, and a little flour ; 
sweeten and flavor it according to taste, and put 
it on the fire to boil. Drop the crust on tins, 
and bake fifteen minutes in a quick oven, then 
open them at the sides and fill them with cus- 
tard. Cream cakes look better if the crust is 
rubbed over with the white of an egg before it 
is baked. 

LEMON CAKE. 

Beat to a foam three cups of sugar, and two 
of rich cream ; add the yolks of three well-beaten 
eggs, the juice and grated peel of a lemon, and 
the whites of five eggs. Add to these four cups 
of flour as lightly as possible. Bake half an 
hour. 

MACAROONS. 

Four ounces of blanched almonds, beaten 
with four spoonfuls of rose water, or orange 
water, or lemon juice. Beat the whites of four 
eggs to a high froth ; mix a pound of sugar with 
the almonds, and stir all together. Bake it on 



90 EDGINGS. 

a sheet of white paper laid upon tins, in any 
shape that suits the fancy. 

SUGAR DROPS. 

Beat separately the whites and yolks of four 
eggs. Pour two teaspoonfuls of water to the 
yolks, and then beat them into the frothed 
whites ; by degrees add a pound of finely sifted 
sugar, and four ounces of very nicely sifted flour, 
beating the whole constantly. Drop them on 
white paper on tin sheets, sift sugar over them 
to prevent them from running, and bake in a 
moderate oven for ten minutes. 

BATTER CAKE. 

To half pint of rich cream, add two well- 
beaten eggs, a teaspoonful of salt, flavor to the 
taste, and stir in sifted flour till the batter is 
smooth and thick. Bake on a soap-stone 
griddle. 

EDGING FOR DISHES. 

Two tea-cups of rice, boiled for half an hour, 
and seasoned with cream and salt. Lay it neatly 
around a dish three or four inches high, brush it 
over with the yolk of an egg, and brown it in 
the oven. When it is properly browned, turn 
the hash into the dish. 

This makes a very good crust for a meat pie. 



EDGINGS. 91 

POTATO EDGING. 

Boil a dozen good potatoes and mash them 
well. Add half a pint of rich cream and a little 
salt. (The quantity of cream must depend upon 
the quantity of potato; — it must not be made 
too soft.) Form it into an edging as before, and 
it will make even a nicer garnishing than the 
rice. It is good also for a meat pie. 

If you wish to edge a dish containing tongue, 
place it in lumps with a spoon, and stick parsley 
into each lump. 

FOR VEAL. 

Slices of lemon or grated horse-radish for 
edging. 

FOR CORNED BEEF. 

Beets and carrots for an edging. 

FOR BOILED MUTTON. 

Capers and parsley, with drawn cream, pre- 
pared thus : Rub into a teacup of rich cream 
half a table-spoonful of flour or corn-starch ; 
pour upon it a teacup of boiling water. Or, 
brown some flour in a spider, taking care that it 
does not burn, and strain the juice of the meat 
upon it while hot. Add cream while it still 
boils, and a little salt, and let it boil up once 
more. Some will like a flavoring of tomato in 



VZ SAUCES. 

this gravy, and a little burnt brown sugar. This 
gravy is perfectly harmless. 

FOR ROAST MUTTON, AND ALL WILD MEATS, 

Currant jelly is appropriate. 

CELERY SAUCE. 

Chop up two or three heads of celery, put 
them into three pints of cold water, and a little 
salt. Boil them two hours. Mix a teacup of 
cream and a table-spoonful of flour, and let it 
boil up again. 

BREAD SAUCE. 

Boil a large slice of stale bread, grated, in a 
cup of cream, with a little mace and salt ; when 
about half done, add a glass of wine.* 

FISH SAUCE. 

Half a pint of cream, (new milk will answer,) 
two well-beaten eggs, salt, and the juice of half 
a lemon. Put it over the fire and stir it till it 
thickens. Serve in a butter-boat. 

LOBSTER SAUCE FOR FISH. 

Cut up all the soft parts of a lobster very fine, 
and put it into a saucepan with half a pint of 
cream, thickened with two or three table-spoon- 

* The alcohol boils at a lower temperature than water, and 
will, therefore, be dissipated in the process of cooking. 



SAUCES. 93 

fuls of flour. Add salt and a little vinegar, and 
pepper if desired, but pepper is a condiment that 
some people cannot bear, and is easily added 
by the individual who desires it. 

APPLE SAUCE, 

For roast or boiled goose. Put a quarter of a 
pound of sugar into a pint of water ; let it boil 
ten minutes ; peel, core, and quarter as many 
apples as the syrup will cover. Simmer slowly 
till they are tender. If taken up carefully, the 
apples will be transparent and unbroken. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE, 

For roast beef and poultry. Put the cran- 
berries into as little water as will cover them. 
Boil them half an hour, then stir and sweeten 
them, and cover them tightly. Let them sim- 
mer fifteen minutes thus, and then fifteen 
minutes uncovered. 

MINT SAUCE, 

For hot or cold roast lamb. Wash the mint, 
mince the leaves very fine, and mix them with 
vinegar and sugar. 

CURRIE SAUCE. 

Mix currie powder with rich cream, and if 
desired, add a little vinegar. 



94 SAUCES. 

GRAVY FOR BEEF. 

Pour the juice of the dripping pan into a 
saucepan, containing a little boiling water. Set 
it in the air to cool, and then take off the sur- 
face, which will be a layer of fat. Strain the 
remainder upon a cup of cream, thickened with 
a table-spoonful of flour. Add salt to the taste, 
and let it boil once. A well-beaten egg will 
also improve it. Gravies should always be 
strained. What runs from the meat, after it is 
cooked, is a purer juice. 



CHAPTER VIII. 

SWEET DISHES. 

ICE-CREAM. 

Strain the juice of a dozen lemons upon as 
much crushed sugar as will absorb it ; stir into 
this very gradually and steadily three quarts of 
cream. 

If you have a proper freezer, the process of 
freezing will be very easy ; but if not, put the 
cream into a tin pail, and set it into a larger one, 
or into a small tub, filled closely with coarse 
salt and lumps of ice. When the cream begins 
to freeze around the edge, stir it well, and shake 
the pail until it is all frozen. 

ANOTHER MODE. 

Add a pound of loaf sugar, half a teaspoonful 
of arrow-root, wet in a little milk, to a quart of 
new milk, while boiling. After it has boiled up 
again, add a quart of cream, mixed with three 
well-beaten eggs. It should not boil up again, 

[95] 



96 SWEET DISHES. 

but when it scalds, strain it and set it to cool. 
Then add your flavor of lemon or rose water, 
and put it into the freezer. 

STRAWBERRY, OR RASPBERRY CREAM. 

To a quart of cream, add a pint of bruised 
raspberries or strawberries, and two heaping 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar. Strain the whole 
through a sieve, and freeze it. 

CURRANT ICE CREAM. 

A gill of fresh currant juice, sweetened and 
stirred into half a pint of cream ; or half a tea- 
cup of currant jelly, and the juice of a lemon, 
added to half a pint of cream. 

CUSTARD ICE CREAM. 

Cold soft custard, flavored with lemon juice, 
or the juice of bruised raspberries or straw- 
berries, stirred briskly that it may not curdle, 
may be frozen ; or a spoonful of arrow-root, 
boiled in a quart of seasoned milk, with the 
addition of a well-beaten egg, will make a very 
good ice cream. 

LEMON ICE. 

Sweeten the juice of half a dozen squeezed 
lemons, and add a third as much water ; strain 
and freeze it. 



SWEET DISHES. 97 

SOFT CUSTARDS. 
These may be made very rich if desired. A 
pint of milk and a pint of cream, eight eggs, and 
a third of a pound of sugar, will make them 
very rich. Six eggs and two spoonfuls of pow- 
dered sugar will make very good custard with 
the same quantity of milk. The stirring must 
be continued till they are done. This may be 
facilitated by boiling the milk, (containing a 
stick of cinnamon or peach leaves,) in a sauce- 
pan, and then turning it into a pitcher that has 
been gradually heated in a kettle of boiling 
water. At the boiling point, turn the milk into 
the pitcher, put in the sugar, then stir in the well- 
beaten eggs. Stir the whole one way, with a 
steady motion, and the moment you feel it 
thicken take it out of the kettle and turn it into 
the cups, or into a cold pitcher, that it may not 
harden. This is much more digestible than 
hard boiled custard. 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD. 

Add to the above a quarter of pound of choco- 
late, dissolved in boiling water. 

FRENCH CUSTARD. 

Put a quart of milk, flavored and sweetened, 

into a flat saucepan to boil. Beat to a perfect 

froth the whites of eight eggs. When the milk 

boils, lay on the egg by spoonfuls, and let it 

7 



98 



SWEET DISHES. 



harden a little. Then skim it off upon a dish. 
When the whites are cooled, beat up the yolks 
and stir them into the milk, until it thickens. 
Turn this over the whites, and ornament it with 
jelly or marmalade. 

ALMOND CUSTARD. 

Blanch and pound fine a quarter of a pound 
of almonds and boil them in a quart of milk, 
sweetened to the taste. Beat and strain eight 
eggs, and turn the boiling mixture upon them, 
stirring them till it thickens. Boil in a pitcher 
set into a kettle of boiling water, like other soft 
custards. 

To blanch almonds, pour boiling water over 
them, and in a few minutes rub off the skins, 
and throw them into cold water. 

WHIPS. 

A pound of sugar, the juice of six lemons, 
mixed with a quart of rich cream, and whipped 
to a strong froth. Serve in glasses. If a pine- 
apple be cut in thin slices, sprinkled with sugar, 
and allowed to stand all night, and strained 
into the sugar through a sieve in the morning, 
it will add very much to the goodness of the 
whip. 

TRIFLE. 

Cut stale cake into thin slices, lay them in a 



SWEET DISHES. 99 

deep dish, turn on a tumbler of white wine, and 
when the cake has absorbed the wine, grate the 
rind of a lemon over it, pour on soft custard, 
and surmount the whole with whip as high as 
possible. 

Preserved fruit laid over the cake, and sur- 
mounted with a lofty whip, will make a very 
handsome dish. 

FRESH FRUIT TRIFLE. 

Stew gooseberries or apples, or bruise rasp- 
berries or strawberries, lay them upon soft cus- 
tard or upon cake dipped in cream, and cover it 
with whip. 

TO MAKE WHIPS FOR GARNISHING. 

Sweeten rich cream and flavor it to the taste. 
Put it into a shallow dish and lay it on ice, and 
when it is very cold, move it very quickly with 
the whip syringe till the froth rises. Drain it 
upon a sieve to dry it. 

A spoonful of jam or jelly in the bottom of a 
glass, covered with whip, is a tasteful dish for a 
dessert, or for an evening party. 

If you wish to color the whip, a few spoon- 
fuls of fruit juice will do it. 

KISS FROTH. 

Beat the white of an egg to a strong froth, sift 
on a very little sugar, and set it in the oven to 



100 SWEET DISHES. 

brown slightly. It makes a very pretty garnish- 
ing for sweet dishes. 

FLAVORINGS. 

A quart of raspberries or strawberries, will 
flavor a gallon of cream. 

Three table-spoonfuls of peach water, ditto. 

A common sized pine-apple, sliced, sugared, 
and strained, after standing all night, ditto. 

Rub lumps of sugar over the outside of three 
good lemons, squeeze them, strain the juice, and 
add as much sugar as will absorb it, to flavor 
one gallon of cream. 

One bean of vanilla, simmered for two or 
three hours in half a pint of milk, ditto. 

IMPERIAL CREAM. 

Boil a quart of cream with the thin rind of 
a lemon. Stir it till nearly cold. Strain the 
juice of three lemons upon a third of a pound 
of sugar, and pour the cream upon it from a 
height, stirring the mixture all the while. Let 
it stand six hours, and eat it with sweetmeats. 

APPLE CREAM. 

Bake a dozen apples ; take off the skins when 
done, and take out the cores and seeds ; add a 
little sugar, and beat up two eggs, yolk and white 
separately. Beat the yolk in vigorously for half 
an hour, and spread the white over the top, and 
sift on a little white sugar. 



SWEET DISHES. 101 

FLOATING ISLAND. 

Beat together half a teacupful of currant 
jelly, or sweetened currant juice, with the juice 
of two lemons, and the whites of two eggs. 
Beat to a stiff froth, put it into the centre of a 
dish, and dress it with sweetmeats. 



ANOTHER, SIMPLER FLOATING ISLAND. 

Warm a quart of new milk or cream, till it is 
lukewarm, add a table-spoonful of rennet wine, 
and when it turns to a curd, have ready a whip 
to turn over it. Eat it immediately. This dish 
is good without the whip. The milk may also 
be flavored to the taste, and it may be eaten 
with sugar and cream, or with imperial cream. 
When the curd has turned to so hard a sub- 
stance that it is no longer digestible, the whey 
is a very healthful beverage. 

ORGEAT. 

Boil two quarts of milk, flavored to the taste. 
When it is cooling, stir it often, to prevent the 
cream from rising to the top. Pound four 
ounces of blanched almonds and mix them with 
the milk. Sweeten, boil, and strain it into cups. 

A CHARLOTTE R0USSA. 

Dissolve half an ounce of Russian isinglass 
in nearly half a pint of milk, flavored to the 
taste. Let it simmer. Beat the yolks of four 



102 SWEET DISHES. 

eggs with three ounces of fine sugar, a pint of 
thick cream, and a tumbler of white wine. 
Strain the milk while lukewarm into this mix- 
ture. Add the whites, already beaten to a thick 
foam, and a pint of cream, and after beating the 
whole quickly, pour it into a mould lined with 
thin slices of sponge cake that have been dipped 
in the white of an egg. 

ISINGLASS BLANC-MANGE. 

Soak an ounce and a half of calf's foot isin- 
glass, that has been well washed, in a quart of 
milk. Let it stand all night. In the morning, 
add flavoring, and boil it slowly for half an hour. 
Strain it upon a teacup of white sugar. Add 
two or three beaten eggs while it is hot. Set it 
away in a mould for a night, for it takes a long 
time to cool. 

CARAGEEN MOSS BLANC-MANGE. 

Put a large coffee-cup of clean moss into a 
dish and pour boiling water upon it. Let it 
stand ten minutes ; wash it again and rinse it 
in cold water. Let it boil ten minutes in three 
quarts of milk, seasoned and sweetened ; strain 
it into moulds. 

calf's foot jelly. 
Cover four large feet with cold water, and let 
them soak two hours. When well soaked, add 



SWEET DISHES. 103 

six quarts of water and let them boil six hours, 
or until they have boiled down to three quarts, 
if not less. Strain through a sieve while hot. 
Let it stand all night, and then take off the fat 
which will be on the top of the mass. Turn the 
jelly into another dish, and take off the sedi- 
ment from the bottom. Add a pound of loaf 
sugar, a pint and a half of old Madeira, (a tea- 
cupful of brandy if the jelly is to be kept long,) 
three sliced lemons, deprived of their seeds, and 
the whites of six eggs beaten to a foam. Stir 
this altogether in a preserving kettle; after it 
becomes warm, throw in the egg shells, stir it 
continually, and let it boil twenty minutes ; after 
so much boiling, place it where it will keep hot 
without boiling, turn in a cup of cold water and 
let it stand a quarter of an hour or twenty 
minutes. Turn a four-legged stool up-side- 
down, and tie a square flannel by its corners to 
each leg. Into the bag thus formed, pour the 
hot jelly through a thin towel. If it is not too 
thick it will strain as clear as amber, but if too 
thick, turn it back into the kettle, pour in another 
cup of cold water, and the whites of two eggs ; 
strain it again. It may be put into moulds 
when hot, but if it is to be put into glasses, it 
will be clearer if allowed to drop through the 
flannel bag into the glasses, drop by drop, and to 
do this, it must stand ill a warm place if the 
weather is cold. 



104 SWEET DISHES. 

Two shins of veal well soaked in cold water, 
two or three hours, or four pigs' feet well clean- 
sed, will make very nearly the same quantity of 
JeUy. 

BLANC-MANGE OF COOPER'S ISINGLASS. 

Two ounces of Cooper's isinglass will thicken 
three pints of milk ; let it boil five minutes, and 
strain it through a sieve. This is not so good 
as Russian isinglass or calf's foot. 



Let two ounces stand fifteen minutes in a 
pint of cold water; wash it, and boil it five 
minutes in three pints of water, a pint of wine, 
three lemons grated and squeezed, a pound of 
sugar, and the whites and shells of five eggs. 
Strain it through a jelly-bag like calfs foot 
jelly. 

CORN-STARCH BLANC-MANGE. 

To a quart of flavored milk or cream, add, 
while boiling, five spoonfuls of corn-starch ; mix 
it with part of the milk while cold, and turn it 
in while the rest of the milk is boiling. Let it 
boil up once, stirring it briskly the while. Turn 
it immediately into a mould, or a bowl that has 
■keen rinsed in cold water. Eat with sugar and 
cream. 



SWEET DISHES. 105 

ITALIAN CREAM. 

Sweeten three pints of cream or new milk, 
flavor it to the taste, add a paper of gelatine, 
and boil it thoroughly. Stirring it all the time, 
add the yolks of eight eggs, well beaten, strain 
it into moulds, and place it upon the ice for a 
few hours. Eat it with sugar and cream. 

CALF'S FOOT BLANC-MANGE. 

One quart of the stock, prepared as for jelly, 
one pint of cream, flavored to the taste, and 
half a pound of sugar. Let it boil up once, and 
strain it into the moulds through a gauze sieve. 
Cool it upon ice or in cold water. 

RUSSIAN ISINGLASS BLANC-MANGE. 

An ounce of isinglass soaked six hours in 
warm water, will thicken three pints of milk or 
cream, sweetened with half a pound of loaf 
sugar, flavored to the taste. It must not quite 
come to a boil. Strain it. 

FARINA BLANC-MANGE. 

Boil a quart of milk or cream, flavored and 
slightly salted ; when it boils, sift in slowly 
four spoonfuls of the farina. Let the milk stand 
in a kettle of boiling water, and let the whole 
now remain over the fire an hour, otherwise it 
will taste uncooked. Pour it into a mould rinsed 
in cold water. Eat with sugar and cream. 



106 SWEET DISHES. 

TO CLARIFY SUGAR. 

Put half a pint of water to every pound of 
sugar. Stir in the white of an egg for every 
five pounds of sugar, and let it boil ; when it 
rises, put in half a teacup of water and let it 
boil again, and repeat this process two or three 
times. Set the kettle aside for fifteen minutes, 
then take the scum from the top. Pour off tne 
syrup ; wash the kettle, and put in the fruit you 
wish to preserve. 

PRESERVED PEACHES. 

Pare the peaches and put a pound of sugar to 
a pound of peaches. Let them stand one day, 
then pour off the syrup and clarify it as above, 
and boil the peaches in it till they are tender. 
Put the peaches in a jar without breaking them, 
and when the syrup is cold, pour it over them. 
The cleave-stones are the most convenient, but 
the yellow cling-stones are the handsomest. 

TO PRESERVE QUINCES. 

A pound of sugar to a pound of fruit. Boil 
the quinces till tender, then remove the skins, 
and save them for jelly. Some people pare the 
quinces and quarter them, and save the uncooked 
skins and cores for jelly. The skins and cores 
contain the richest flavor and the most gelatine 
in both peaches and apples. A less expensive 
preserve is to take apples and quinces, half and 



8WEET DISHES. 107 

half. The flavor of the quince will entirely 
penetrate the apple. The syrup, which should 
be made of two gills of the water in which the 
quinces were boiled to a pound of sugar, will be 
sufficient for both apples and quinces. 

QUINCE MARMALADE. 

Pare, core, and boil the quinces till they are very 
soft, mash them with a spoon, then put a pound 
of brown sugar to a pound of the quince, and 
boil it slowly for an hour, stirring it. This may 
also be mixed with apple. 

ANOTHER MARMALADE. 

Grate the uncooked quince, after it is pared, 
and mix with it powdered white sugar, pound 
for pound. Pack it in jars, and cover it with a 
brandied paper and a tight cover. It will keep 
all winter. This may also be cooked. 

QUINCE JELLY. 

Squeeze the skins and cores of the quinces 
with Davis' Fruit Presser, and strain the juice 
into some of the water in which you have boiled 
your quinces. A pint of water to a pound of 
loaf sugar is the common measure, but much 
less sugar will answer. The jelly must not boil 
more than fifteen or twenty minutes, else the 
color will be spoiled. (Drop a little of the jelly 
into cold water, and if it falls to the bottom in a 
lump, it is done.) 



108 SWEET DISHES. 

APPLE JELLY. 

In a family where apples are used freely, apple 
jelly may be made once a week. Save all the 
apple parings, cores and seeds, in a jar, after 
rincing them quickly in cold water, in order to 
have the satisfaction of knowing that they are 
clean. Squeeze them, when boiled, with Davis' 
Fruit Presser, which will effectually extract the 
juice, but add a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
(more if desired,) to every quart of the extract, 
and boil it down again. Strain through a fine 
gauze sieve or through a jelly bag that has been 
rung out in hot water. This jelly can be flavor- 
ed with grated lemon or juice. 

ANOTHER. 

Boil a peck of nicely washed fresh wine apples 
in a large boiler till perfectly soft. Mash them 
well, and add half a pound of clarified brown 
sugar to every pound of the juice strained out 
from the mass, and boil and strain again through 
a fine sieve or a jelly bag. 

TO PRESERVE CRANBERRIES. 

Boil a pound of the fruit very soft in a little 
water, not allowing it to burn. Then add nearly 
a pound of sugar and boil it five minutes, closely 
covered. 



SWEET DISHES. 



109 



CRANBERRY JELLY. 

Jelly may be made of cranberries by boiling, 
straining, and adding a pound of sugar to a pint 
of juice or pulp. 

TO PRESERVE PLUMS. 

Boil the fruit gently in the syrup for thirty or 
forty minutes. Put equal quantities of fruit and 
sugar. After three or four days, set the jar into 
a kettle of cold water and let it come to a boil, 
or put it into a brick oven after the bread is taken 
out, and leave it there an hour or two. Some 
plums require a great deal of boiling. 

TO PRESERVE CHERRIES. 

They are to be boiled even longer than plums, 
and some persons scald and bury the bottles 
in the cellar. Large English cherries are the 
best. 

TO PRESERVE PINE-APPLES. 

Pine-apple requires an equal weight of loaf 
sugar. They must be pared nicely, sliced, and 
covered with the sugar, and left standing a day 
or night. In the morning, take out the apples 
and boil the syrup. "When it simmers, restore 
the apple and let it boil fifteen minutes ; remove 
the apple and let the syrup boil longer, and 
when both are cool, turn the syrup over the 
apple. White ginger boiled in the syrup is an 
improvement. 



110 SWEET DISHES. 

TO PRESERVE TOMATOES. 

Take tomatoes that are ripe, but not soft. 
Skin them in boiling water, weigh them and 
allow a pound of sugar to a pound of fruit ; 
make the syrup with as little water as possible. 
Slice a lemon for every four pounds of fruit; 
throw the slices into the syrup, having carefully 
removed the seeds. When the syrup is clear, 
lay in the tomatoes carefully, and boil moder- 
ately nearly an hour. A few pieces of white 
ginger, boiled in the syrup, will improve it. 

TOMATO FIGS. 

Take smooth tomatoes, and to eight pounds, 
allow three pounds of sugar. When skinned, 
put them with the sugar and boil them till they 
are thoroughly penetrated by it. Take them 
out, press them flat, and dry them on dishes in 
the sun. Sprinkle them occasionally with a 
little sugar. When dry, pack them in boxes, 
sprinkling each layer with sugar. Boil down 
the remaining syrup for future use, or use it for 
preserving tomatoes. 

TO PRESERVE PEARS. 

Pare them, weigh them, boil them whole, if 
sound, in a little water, till quite soft. Take 
them out, and put half a pint of the water to a 
pound of sugar, and put in a pound of fruit for 
every pound of sugar ; boil them in the syrup 



SWEET DISHES. Ill 

half an hour; lay the pears in ajar, and when 
the syrup is cool pour it over them. Brown 
sugar, if clean, answers very well for pears. 

TO PRESERVE CITRON MELON. 

Cut the melons in strips, rings, or whatever 
shape you choose, and remove the inside. Lay 
them in strong salt and water for two or three 
days. Soak them in fair water, frequently 
changed for the next twenty-four hours, then in 
alum-water for an hour, then boil till tender, and 
lay them back into the alum water. A pound 
of loaf sugar should be allowed to a pound of 
fruit, and boil slices of lemon in the syrup, or a 
piece of white ginger. When the melon is cool, 
boil it gently for half an hour in the syrup. 

Water melon rinds may be preserved in the 
same way, but neither are fit for use for several 
months. 

TO PRESERVE STRAWBERRIES. 

The strawberries must not be too ripe ; weigh 
equal quantities of fruit and sugar, and sprinkle 
half the sugar over layers of fruit, and let it 
stand all night. Next day make a syrup of the 
remainder of the sugar and red currant juice, 
(not water,) a pint to every three pounds of fruit, 
and simmer the fruit in this for half an hour. 
If you add another quarter of a pound of sugar 
to every pound of fruit, seal and bury the bot- 



112 SWEET DISHES. 

ties ; the strawberries will keep several years, 
and retain their flavor. 



STRAWBERRY JAM. 

Three pounds of sugar to two quarts of fruit. 
Bruise and boil ten minutes, stirring briskly. 

GRAPE JAM. 

Boil soft and strain through a sieve. Allow 
a pound of sugar to a pound of pulp. Boil the 
fruit in the syrup twenty minutes, stirring it fre- 
quently. 

TOMATO JAM. 

Skin and strain the fruit and boil it with sugar, 
pound for pound. Boil two lemons, rind and 
pulp, for every pound of tomato. 

RASPBERRY JAM. 

Pick carefully, for worms. Weigh equal quan- 
tities of fruit and sugar, and after boiling till 
the juice is almost gone, add the sugar, and let 
it simmer slowly, stirring it steadily. 

PINE APPLE JAM. 

Grate the pine apples, and put a pound of 
fruit to three-quarters of a pound of sugar. Boil 
ten minutes, stirring carefully. 

CURRANT JELLY. 

A pound of sugar to a pint of juice. Pound, 



SWEET DISHES. 113 

sift, and heat the sugar hot, then pour it into the 
boiling juice, which must be strained through a 
sieve from the skins and seeds. Let it boil only 
one minute longer. This may be made without 
boiling the juice or the sugar. Put the glasses 
in the sun, near a window, for a few days before 
covering them. All these fruits may be pre- 
served without boiling, by packing them in 
bottles or jars with equal weights of sugar, and 
putting in alternate layers of sugar and fruit. 
The fruit must not be too ripe, and the sugar 
must be very finely sifted. 

Fruits may also be preserved in water without 
sugar, by putting them into bottles, setting the 
bottles into a boiler of water and letting them 
come gradually to a boil. Have melted bees- 
wax and rosin ready in equal quantities, and as 
soon as the water begins to boil, take out the 
bottles, throw a cloth over them to prevent any 
draught of air from cooling them off, and cover 
the cork with the beeswax and rosin as soon 
as possible. If a piece of bladder, wet in 
warm water, has been tied over the cork tightly 
before the bottles were put into the cold water 
to boil, it will be much better. If a coat of 
mould forms at the top of the bottle, it will do 
no harm, but rather be useful, as it will effectu- 
ally exclude the air. 

When the bottles are opened, this mould must 

8 



114 SWEET DISHES. 

be carefully removed, and the fruit may be 
stewed with sugar, like fresh fruit. 

Fruit is often put into tin cans and sealed 
with rosin as soon as the water boils in the 
boiler. This mode of putting up fruit is prac- 
tised largely at the West. 

ARROW-ROOT CREAM. 

Put a table-spoonful of arrow-root into a tea- 
cup of cold water and let it settle. Pour off the 
the water and then stir it into a quart of boiling 
milk or cream, flavored with the grated peel of a 
lemon. Stir it well till it is cold, that it may 
not be lumpy. Eat it with preserved or stewed 
fruit. 

CRANBERRY AND RICE JELLY. 

Boil, wash and strain the fruit. Mix in as 
much ground rice as will thicken to a jelly when 
boiled. Stir gently while boiling, having sweet- 
ened to your taste. Put in a mould, and eat 
with cream. 

RICE BLANC-MANGE. 

Wash a large teacup of rice in many waters, 
put it into a saucepan of cold milk, and add 
two cupfuls of rich cream when it boils. Boil it 
till it is dry, and pour it into a mould. It will 
turn out, when cold, in good shape. 

It is better to boil it dry in a covered tin pail 



SWEET DISHES. 115 

that stands in a kettle of salted boiling water, 
to prevent it from burning. 

PINK CREAM. 

Squeeze and strain a pint of ripe red currant 
juice upon half a pound of powdered sugar, fla- 
vored with the juice of one lemon. c Stir this 
into a quart of cream, and whisk it till it is quite 
thick. It maybe made with currant jelly. Serve 
it in jelly glasses. 

Raspberry and strawberry cream may be made 
thus. 

WHITE LEMON CREAM. 

Boil the peel of the lemon in a quart of cream ; 
strain it and thicken with the yolks of six and 
the whites of eight eggs well beaten. Sweeten 
with loaf-sugar ; stir it till nearly cold, and put 
it into glasses. 

LEMON OR ORANGE CUSTARD. 

Put three ounces of sugar into a deep dish, 
and strain upon it the juice of four lemons. Boil 
the grated peel of one lemon and two more 
ounces of sugar in a quart of cream, and pour 
it over the lemon peel and sugar. Orange will 
require less sugar. 

CALF'S FOOT BLANC-MANGE. 

Put four calf's feet into four quarts of water ; 



116 SWEET DISHES. 

boil it away to one quart, strain it, and set it 
aside. After it is cool, all the fat should be 
taken off, and the jelly cut out of the pan with? 
out the sediment. Add a quart of new milk, 
sweetened to the taste with loaf sugar and 
flavored with lemon-peel or peach leaves, to the 
jelly, and boil it ten minutes. Strain it through 
a fine sieve and stir it till it is cold. Put it into 
moulds. This is an excellent blanc-mange for 
the table, eaten with cream, and innocent also 
for the sick. 

ISINGLASS BLANC-MANGE. 

Take an ounce and a half of calf's foot isin- 
glass, wash it, and soak it all night in a quart of 
milk. Flavor it in the morning according to the 
taste with lemons, peach leaves or rose water, 
and boil it slowly for half an hour. Strain it 
upon a teacup of crushed sugar. 

IRISH FLUMMERY. 

Take the chaff of oatmeal and soak it for 
twenty -four hours. Squeeze the chaff and strain it 
through a fine sieve. Let it settle for about four 
hours, then decant the water and put on clean 
water, and renew this process two or three times. 
It will take two or three days to bleach it suffi- 
ciently. After it has been soaked in this man- 
ner, in several waters, take a quart of the meal 
and put it into a skillet with fresh water, mak- 



SWEET DISHES. 1 L7 

ing a thin gruel of it. Boil it two hours. It 
will be lumpy at first, but must be well stirred, 
and after a while it will become smooth, and 
then thicken like corn-starch. Add salt to the 
taste, and eat it with milk or cream, and sugar, 
if liked. It is very delicious. 



CHAPTER IX. 

VEGETABLES. 

Vegetables should be gathered early, while 
the dew is still upon them. After being well 
washed, such vegetables as do not have too 
strong a flavor, like cabbage and carrot, should 
be laid in cold water until they are ready for 
boiling. Then take them out and boil the same 
water, and when it is at the boiling point throw 
in the vegetable. 

PEAS OR BEANS 

Should be boiled in barely water enough to 
cover them. Boil peas about half an hour, and 
when tender, add cream and salt. The Ger- 
mans crack the pods crosswise, peel off a tough 
membrane that lines the inside, and which comes 
off readily, and boil the remainder with the peas. 
It is even sweeter than the pea itself, and a great 
addition as well as economy, if carefully freed 
from the tough membrane. Peas should not be 
shelled long before boiling, and shouM not be 
washed after they are shelled, because the little 

[118] 



VEGETABLES. 119 

point that unites them with the pod, and which 
contains much of their sweetness, is thereby- 
washed away. Wash the pods before shelling. 
Shelled beans should be prepared in the same 
way. Boil these an hour and a half, when fresh. 
Soak them over night when winter-kept. 

ASPARAGUS 

Should be planted very deep, and cut as soon 
as it appears at the surface of the ground. That 
part which is below the surface is the most ten- 
der. The Germans think we waste asparagus 
sadly by not planting it deep. Boil asparagus 
in as little water as possible, with salt, half an 
hour. When it is done, dip toasted bread in the 
water, lay the asparagus, (which should be tied 
up for boiling,) upon the bread, add cream and 
a little flour to the boiling liquid, and turn it 
over the whole. 

If cold asparagus is cut up very fine, and put 
into a saucepan containing four or five well- 
beaten eggs, and a little salt, cream and flour, 
and stirred till it thickens, it will make a very 
nice dish. Pepper can be added, if desired. Pour 
it upon toasted bread, in a hot dish. 

This is sometimes put inside the crust of a 
loaf of bread, from which the crumb has been 
removed. A few sticks reserved to ornament 
the top of the loaf will improve the looks of the 
dish. 



120 VEGETABLES. 

POTATOES 

That are new should be put into boiling water 
with their skins on, with considerable salt. 
When the skin cracks they are done enough, 
and should then be peeled and restored to the 
hot kettle without water, and covered with 
a cloth, to allow the water to evaporate from 
them. It is better that they should be broken, 
than sent to the table whole and watery. Old 
potatoes should be peeled and allowed to stand 
several hours in cold water, then thrown into 
boiling water, and served as above. 

PARSNIPS 

That have remained in the ground till March, 
are very tender. Boil them half an hour. Scrape 
the outside and split them, and dress them with 
a little thickened cream and salt, or brown them 
on the griddle after boiling. 

CARROTS 

Should be soaked in cold water before boil- 
ing. Boil them three quarters of an hour in 
summer, an hour and a half in winter, in a good 
deal of fresh water. Turn off most of the water 
when tender. Mash and dress them with cream 
and flour. 

Carrots make excellent puddings in the pro- 
portions of one fourth carrot and three fourths 
grated bread. It is also an excellent flavor for 
soups. 



VEGETABLES. 121 

THE OYSTER PLANT 

Should be washed and scraped, and put into 
boiling water. When tender, dip it in bread 
crumbs moistened in cream and beaten egg, 
and brown it on a griddle. 

SUMMER SQUASH 

Should be boiled whole, in a little bag-. Put in 
boiling water and boil three quarters of an hour. 
Press it in a tin dish while still in the bag, to 
press out the water. Dress it with salt and a 
little thickened milk or cream. 

WINTER SQUASH 

Must be cut in pieces, but do not remove the 
yellow fringe, as that is the sweetest part. It is 
best to steam it, and if it is watery, press it in a 
cloth.. Dress it with salt and thickened milk or 
cream. Strain it for pies or puddings, through 
a coarse sieve. 

ONIONS 

Should be boiled half tender in water, the 
water be turned off, and then boiled twenty 
minutes more in hot milk and water. Onions 
are doubtless very healthful, but not to be eaten 
in good society. 

SPINACH 

Should be boiled ten or twelve minutes in a 



122 VEGETABLES. 

muslin bag. Use a good deal of water, because 
it has a strong, bitter taste. Dress it with cream 
or thickened milk, like parsnips or carrots. 
Slice hard boiled eggs and lay over it. 

GREENS. 

When greens, such greens as beet-tops, turnip- 
tops, mustard-tops, cowslips, dandelions, &c. are 
sufficiently boiled, they will sink to the bottom 
of the kettle. 

CABBAGE 

Should be boiled an hour, and carefully 
skimmed. It is very nutritive. Dress with cream 
or thickened milk and a dash of vinegar. 

CAULIFLOWERS 

Should be soaked an hour or two in cold 
water, then boiled in milk and water half an 
hour. If very strong, pour off the water when 
they are half done, and add fresh water. 

BROCCOLI 

Should be cooked in the same manner. 

GREEN CORN 

Should be cut from the cobs, the cobs boiled 
half an hour, then taken out, and the corn boiled 
in the same water. Thicken with a little milk 
or cream, and flour. 



VEGETABLES. 12*3 

TO MAKE SUCCOTASH. 

Throw a few shelled beans into the water with 
the cobs. Boil them an hour, then remove the 
cobs, and put in the corn. Use as little water 
as possible, and when it is nearly boiled thicken 
with a little cream. 

CORN OYSTERS 

May be made by grating sweet corn into a 
dish, adding an egg, well beaten, to a pint of 
the corn, half a gill of cream thickened with a 
teacup of flour, and a teaspoonful of salt. Mix 
it well together, and brown spoonfuls on the 
griddle as if they were oysters. 

BEETS 

Should be nicely washed, but the fibres and 
excrescences should not be rubbed off. Boil 
young beets an hour, but in winter two or three, 
according to their size. When tender, remove 
the skin with the fingers, holding the beet under 
cold water for a moment. Dress them with 
cream, or merely with salt and vinegar. 

EGG PLANT 
Should be cut in slices, sprinkled with salt, 
dipped in eggs and crumbs, and browned on the 
griddle. 

MUSHROOMS 

Should be cut in small pieces and boiled for 



124 VEGETABLES. 

ten minutes. Thicken a little cream with flour, 
add salt, let it boil up once again, and serve like 
stewed oysters. Choose those which have red 
gills, and cut off that portion of the stalk which 
grew in the earth. A certain species of poison- 
ous toadstool resembles mushrooms, and must 
be carefully avoided. Flavor with lemon juice. 

SALADS 

Should be gathered early, before the dew is 
off, picked, and laid in cold water, in ice if pos- 
sible. Cut fine and dress with sugar, cream, 
salt, and vinegar. Another dressing may be 
made of the yolks of three eggs, boiled twelve 
minutes, mashed, and mixed with a spoonful of 
olive oil ; add powdered sugar, salt, and vinegar. 
Garnish the tops with the whites of the eggs cut 
in rings. 

MACARONI 

Should be carefully picked over, as there are 
sometimes insects inside of it. Boil it in cold 
water slowly for half an hour, then add milk, 
and boil it a quarter of an hour more. Dress it 
with grated cheese after it is put into the dish in 
which it is to be served. Heat a shovel red hot, 
and brown it by holding it closely over it, or set 
it into a moderate oven a little while. 

TOMATOES. 

Should be laid in a dish, scalded with boiling 



VEGETABLES. 125 

water, skinned, boiled in their own juice, with a 
little salt, until tender, then dressed with bread 
crumbs, a little cream, and sugar. 

They may be baked, by being laid into a bak- 
ing-dish in layers, alternately with bread crumbs, 
wet in cream, and sprinkled with salt and sugar. 
Bake an hour. 

If tomatoes are thoroughly scalded and put 
into bottles, tins or jars, boiling hot, covered 
with paper, and then with a coating of nice 
beef-tallow, corked and sealed, they will keep a 
year. Glass is safer than tin, as the latter some- 
times contracts verdigris. 

TOMATO OMELETTE 

May be made by pealing and chopping four 
tomatoes, beating up six eggs, and mixing with 
two table-spoonfuls of flour. Stir this altogether 
and fry on the soapstone griddle. 

OYSTER OMELETTE. 

Prepare the egg and flour as above, chop 
a dozen oysters, and stir them into the eggs as 
above directed. 

BAKED BEANS. 

Soak over night, parboil in the same water, 
add salt and cream, and bake two hours. 



126 VEGETABLES. 

DROPPED EGGS 

Are more tender than eggs cooked in any other 
mode. Have a pan of boiling water ready, and 
break the eggs into a cup separately, and drop 
them into the water, carefully, that the yolk may 
not break. When the white is sufficiently cooked 
to be taken out whole, the egg is done enough. 
Dish them on toasted bread, dipped in hot water, 
and sprinkle on a little salt. 

Eggs roasted half an hour in hot ashes are 
excellent. 

KOL-CANNON. 

The potato is deficient in gluten, and there- 
fore not very nutritive. The cabbage is unusu- 
ally rich in gluten. Boil the two, and the mix- 
ture is as healthful and nutritious as wheaten 
bread. Mash the potatoes and chop the cabbage, 
add salt and cream, or milk thickened with a 
little flour. Too much potato or rice renders 
people pot-bellied, but kol-cannon will remedy 
that effect of a too watery diet. The cream 
will add the requisite fat, which will correct the 
too constipating effect of the gluten, of which 
the cabbage contains thirty parts in a hundred, 
when the leaf is dried. Cauliflower contains 
sixty-four per cent, and would make a still more 
nutritive kol-cannon, which is an Irish dish.* 

* See Dr. Johnston's Chemistry of Life. 



CHAPTER X. 

MEATS. 
BEEF. — ROASTING PIECES. 

The best is the sirloin ; then the first three 
ribs ; if the latter are kept long enough to be 
tender and then boned, they are nearly as good 
as the sirloin. The round is the best piece for 
corning. 

The best beef-steak is from the inner part of 
the sirloin, the next best from the ribs. 

When beef is to be kept any length of time, it 
should be wiped every day. In summer it 
should be dusted with pepper and salt to keep off 
the flies. If at all tainted, wash it in cold water, 
then in strong camomile tea, and salt it again, 
if not to be used immediately. Roughly pound- 
ed charcoal rubbed over it will also remove the 
taint. 

When you choose meat, take that which has 
a fine grain and white fat. 

Twenty minutes of time to each pound of 
meat is the rule for roasting. Experience will 
determine whether a little more or less time is 
necessary in a given oven. Put boiling water 

[127] 



1^8 MEATS. 

into the meat pan, and let the oven be quite hot 
when it is put in to roast, otherwise it will not 
be tender. When nearly done, salt, flour, and 
baste it from dripping-pan ; not before. 

TO PRESS BEEF. 

Take the bones from the brisket, or flank, or 
the thin part of the ribs. Salt it well, add a 
little sugar, and sprinkle with a little summer 
savory, let it lie a week, then stew it in scarcely 
sufficient water to cover it. When tender, roll 
it tightly in a cloth, and press it with a heavy 
weight till cold. 

Boil and press a calf's head in the same way. 

BOILED BEEF. 

The best piece is the round, the next best, the 
edge-bone. Put it into boiling water, otherwise 
it will lose all its juiciness. Ten pounds of beef 
will require three hours boiling. 

BOILED CORN BEEF. 

Soak the beef for half an hour in lukewarm 
w T ater, and then put it into boiling water. 

BEEF SOUP. 

Cut away the fat, chop the beef fine, put it in 
an equal weight of cold water, let it stand one 
or two hours, then let it simmer a long time, and 
come slowly to a boil. Boil the bones separately 



MEATS. 



129 



in a little water, and add it afterwards, strained. 
If the beef is rich, add only salt and vegetables, 
if liked. Carrot or tomato give a fine flavoring. 
If it is beef from a shank, mix flour and cream, 
and pour it in while the soup is boiling. This 
process will extract more nourishment from meat 
than any other mode of cooking it. If much 
soup is made thus, add the thickening and vege- 
tables to only so much as is needed for one din- 
ner, and set the rest away till wanted. It will 
not keep so well after flour and milk, or cream 
are added. One shank of beef will make soup 
enough for five dinners in a family of six per- 
sons. Do not strain it from the meat, or if such 
a mode is required for the sake of gentility, save 
the meat for hashes. It will be pretty good 
hashed in gravy, or with cream, but will have 
lost much of its nutritive property, of course. 
(See Chapter II.) 

BROILED STEAK. 

Ten or fifteen minutes is sufficient time for 
cooking steak, which is best when cut from the 
inside of the sirloin, or from the ribs. No butter 
is necessary, if it is cooked upon a soap-stone 
griddle, rubbed with salt. It will be sufficiently 
juicy if not cooked too long. Sprinkle salt upon 
it when it is quite done. Let each one put on 
butter to suit himself, when it is no longer hot 
enough to melt it. Cook it rapidly. 
9 



130 MEATS. 

MUTTON. 

Mutton is best from August till January. 
Cook it till it is done. It is better after being 
kept several days. Ffteen or twenty minutes 
should be allowed to the pound. Baste it with 
salt and water till nearly done, then add flour to 
the basting and let it brown. Put paper over 
the fat parts. 

The hind quarter or haunch is best for roast- 
ing, but the leg, loin, neck, and breast are also 
good for roasting. 

The leg is good for boiling. Cut off the 
shank bone and save it for soup. Nine pounds 
will require three hours of boiling. Wash, but 
do not soak it. Put it into boiling water. Save 
the liquor for shank soup. Serve it with qaper- 
sauce and cream. 

MUTTON BROTH. 

Take the liquor in which the leg was boiled, 
put in the shank while cold, thicken it with rice, 
and season with parsley. 

A STUFFED LOIN OF MUTTON. 

Take off the skin ; bone it neatly ; stuff the 
inside where the bones have been removed ; roll it 
up tight ; skewer the flap, and tie it down with 
twine. Put the outside skin over it till nearly 
roasted, and then remove it that the mutton may 
brown. Put boiling water into the dripping-pan, 



MEATS. 



131 



and let the oven be hot; cover with paper. 
Currant jelly is good with mutton. 

MUTTON CHOPS. 

. Cut chops from the loin or the best end of a 
neck of mutton ; take off the fat, dip them in 
beaten egg, strew over them grated bread, sea- 
soned with salt and finely mixed parsley; fry 
them on the soap-stone griddle, well rubbed with 
salt to prevent burning, or broil them over coals, 
and lay them in a hot dish. 

LAMB 

Should be roasted until the gravy that drops 
is white. The fore-quarter is the best part for a 
roast. The leg is good boiled or roasted. Two 
hours will roast the fore-quarter well. 

LAMB DRESSED WITH RICE. 

Half roast a small fore-quarter, cut it into 
steaks, season with salt, lay them in a dish, 
and pour in a little water. Boil a pound of 
rice with a little mace ; strain it, and stir in half 
a cup of cream, or more, according to the quan- 
tity of meat ; add the yolks of four eggs well 
beaten, and a little salt ; cover the lamb with 
the rice, and with a feather put over it a little 
egg yolk, reserved for the purpose. Bake it in 
an oven until it is of a light brown color. 



132 MEATS. 

VEAL. 

The loin is the best part, and requires three 
hours roasting. Paper the kidney. 

Both fillet and shoulder should be stuffed 
before roasting. 

The neck of veal makes fine cutlets. Cook 
like mutton chops. 

"When boiled or stewed, veal must be care- 
fully skimmed. 

The knuckle is best stewed. Season with 
sweet herbs. 

The knuckle is also good boiled. Serve pars- 
ley in thickened cream and flour, well salted for 
gravy. Save the liquor for veal broth. 

VENISON. 

This is the most easily digested of all meats. 
It should be kept for a fortnight after it is killed, 
to be tender. A haunch of twelve pounds will 
be well roasted in four hours. Baste it with 
cream, as it is not fat. 

VENISON STEAKS 

May be cooked like mutton chops, or like 
simple beef steaks. 

A BEEF PIE. 

Cut cold roast beef or steak into thin slices, 
put a layer of it into a pie-dish, shake over it a 
little flour and salt; cut up a tomato if you have 



MEATS. 133 

one, or if not, an onion ; then lay another layer 
and so on. If you have any beef gravy, put 
it in, if not, water enough to make a little 
gravy. Have a dozen potatoes well boiled and 
mashed, add half a cup of cream and a little 
salt. Spread it over the pie an inch thick, as a 
crust. Beat up an egg, and spread it over 
with a nice feather. Bake it about twenty-five 
minutes. 

BEEP OLIVES. 

Take a slice of beef (from the round if possi- 
ble) of the thickness of an inch ; pound it out 
till it is only half an inch thick ; cut it into four 
inch squares. Make some dressing of chopped 
beef, bread crumbs, cream, salt, and sweet mar- 
joram ; mix it with an egg, and sew it up in the 
bits of steak in the shape of an olive ; lay them 
in a tin pan with a cup of brown stock, (or water 
in which meat has been boiled,) and set them in 
the oven. When half done, bake them with the 
liquid. Cook them twenty minutes. Put them 
into a dish ; add a little cream and flour to the 
gravy. While it is boiling, pour on a little boil- 
ing water, and if you have it, add a little soy or 
tomato catsup. Let this boil once and turn it 
over the olives when you are ready to send them 
to the table. 

TO STUFF A BRISKET OF BEEF. 

Make a dressing like that for beef olives, and 



134 MEATS. 

put it in between the fat and lean, and sew it up 
tight; flour a cloth, pin the beef very tightly 
into it, and boil it five or six hours if it weighs 
as much as eight pounds, not so long if less. 
When it is done, take off the cloth, lay it into a 
dish and press it with a heavy weight until it is 
cold. Cut it in thin slices and eat it cold. 

BEEF BOUILLI. 

Put part of a brisket of beef into a saucepan 
and cover it with cold water. Skim it as it boils ; 
cut up two carrots, two turnips, and if agreeable, 
an onion, in dice form. Let it simmer three 
hours. Add a tumbler full of red wine, and a 
table-spoonful of soy or tomato catsup. Let it 
simmer another hour. When done, stir in a 
little flour, milk and egg into the gravy, give it 
one boil, and turn it into the dish with the 
meat. 

SWEETBREADS. 

Dip them in cream, boil them fifteen minutes 
in water, drop them into cold water for ten 
minutes; take them out, dredge a little flour 
upon them, pour on half a pint of hot water 
with a little mace and salt in it, and brown them 
twenty minutes in a tin dish in the oven. Dish 
the sweet breads, pour over them the gravy 
thickened with cream and flour, and boiled up 
once. Garnish the dish with sliced lemon and 
parsley. 



MEATS. 



135 



TRIPE. 

Cut the honey-comb part into square pieces of 
any size desired, wash it in salt and water, wipe 
it, dip it in batter or in eggs mixed with crumbs 
and cream, brown it on the griddle, well rubbed 
down with salt. Eat it with oyster sauce, or 
cream sauce and eggs. 

TO SALT MEAT. 

If for immediate use, rub the pieces with dry 
salt, lay them in a tub and cover them closely. 
Turn the pieces every day, and it will be good 
to eat in a week. It will keep six weeks. This 
receipt will answer for beef and mutton. 

TO PICKLE BEEF. 

Four gallons of water to two pounds of brown 
sugar, and six pounds of salt ; boil it twenty 
minutes, taking off the scum as it rises. The 
following day pour it over the meat which has 
been packed into the pickling tub. Pour oft*, 
boil, and skim this brine every two months, 
adding each time three ounces of brown sugar 
and a pound of common salt. (The meat must 
be sprinkled with the salt, and the next day 
wiped dry, before pouring the pickle over it, with 
which it should always be completely covered. 
Use fine salt.) 

When meats are warmed over, the liquor 
should be first prepared. It may be soup stock, 



136 MEATS. 

or water and milk, salted ; then put in the meat, 
otherwise it loses all its juices and tenderness. 

SOUPS. 
Vegetable soup. Two turnips, four carrots, 
four potatoes, one cabbage, one parsnip, parsley 
or celery ; chop them all fine, add a spoonful of 
rice, and three quarts of water, and boil them 
three hours. Strain through a cullender, let it 
all boil up again, and add a pint of milk or 
cream, thickened with flour. 

SPLIT PEA SOUP. 

Soak the peas over night, and in the morning 
add water until there are four quarts to a pound 
and a half of split peas ; boil till they will press 
through a sieve. Return the soup to the kettle, 
with the addition of a small piece of corned beef, 
a head of celery, salt, and a very little pepper, (if 
desired.) 

MOCK-TURTLE SOUP. 

Scald and clean a calf's head. Boil it with 
the skin on slowly for an hour, in about a gallon 
of water. When cold, cut up the meat into 
pieces an inch square. Stew in cream and 
water, two pounds of beef and two of veal, with 
two ounces of green sage, and five onions, (if 
desired). Add these to the liquor, also the bones 
of the head, a handful of parsley, a salt-spoon 



MEATS. 137 

of mace, the grated rind of a lemon, and sim- 
mer all for three or four hours. Strain it, and 
when cold, remove the fat. Restore it to the 
clean kettle, add half a pint of Madeira or 
claret, and thicken with a cup of rich cream, 
mixed with a table-spoonful of flour. Just be- 
fore serving, add eight or ten hard boiled eggs 
and the juice of a lemon. Boil the brains for 
ten minutes, put them in cold water to cool, 
chop and mix them with four or five spoonfuls 
of grated bread, salt, thyme, and two eggs, roll 
them of the size of an egg, and brown them in 
the oven, and throw them into the soup. 

Very good mock-turtle soup may be made of 
calf's feet, four feet boiled in two quarts of 
water, and seasoned as above, all injurious in- 
gredients common in cookery books being left 
out. 

PIGEON SOUP. 

Of eight pigeons, cut up two and put them 
into four quarts of cold water, with the necks, 
livers and pinions of the rest ; when they have 
simmered and boiled till the substance is ex- 
tracted, strain out the soup, then restore it to 
the kettle with a handful of parsley, a handful 
of spinach, chopped and mixed with a pint of 
cream, in which a handful of bread crumbs have 
been boiled. Truss and season the pigeons with 
salt and a little mace, and boil them in the soup 
till they are tender. 



138 MEATS. 

GUMBO SOUP. 

Boil a shin of veal and a chicken in four 
quarts of water, add the liquor of three quarts 
of oysters, two carrots, two turnips ; shred the 
chicken and veal when tender ; stir in three 
table-spoonfuls of gumbo, mixed in water or 
in milk, just before it is all done, and drop in 
the oysters, but do not let the soup boil after the 
gumbo and oysters are put in. Salt it to the 
taste, and add mace if liked. 

Soups may be made of almost any materials 
that are good cooked together, but remember the 
main principle, which is to lose none of the nutri- 
tive properties of such materials, vegetable or ani- 
mal, by soaking them out in cold water and 
throwing the water away. Wash everything 
clean, and then use the water in which the 
materials lie, for the soup. The longer meat is 
soaked in cold water the more of its nutritive 
properties will be extracted, as they dissolve best 
while the water is cold. Simmer and boil slowly, 
unless for beef tea, which should be boiled as 
rapidly as possible, and then strained. 

calf's head. 
Soak it in cold water for an hour, take out 
the brains, scrape the head, pin it tightly into a 
floured cloth, and boil it in six quarts of water. 
Tie the brains up separately in a cloth. Boil 
the head two hours, then add lights, liver, and 



MEATS. 139 

brains, and boil two hours more. The large 
bones will now come out of the head. Put into 
a quart of the boiling liquor half the liver chop- 
ped fine, the brains mashed with a spoon, a pint 
of cream, thickened with half a teacup of flour, 
salt, sweet marjoram, and a little mace, and boil 
them all together. Then add the juice of two 
lemons, or two spoonfuls of vinegar. Skin the 
tongue, divide the liver and head, pour part of 
the gravy over them, and put the rest in a butter 
boat. Scraped horse-radish and sliced lemons 
are the garnishings for this dish. 

calf's feet. 
Boil four feet in six quarts of water for two 
hours ; take out the large bones, split the feet, 
lay them into a saucepan ; mix half a pint of 
cream with flour, mace, half a teacupful of wine, 
the juice of a lemon, and two teacups of the 
liquor in which the feet were boiled. The rest 
of the liquor may be used for jelly. 



Dip it in cream, and bake it three quarters of 
an hour, basting it frequently with the cream 
and water. Boil some macaroni in milk and 
water, lay it around the dish, and put the liver 
in the middle. Veal stock is better than water, 
for boiling calf's head. 



140 MEATS. 

SEASONS FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF MEAT. 

Beef, — from January to May. Pack beef in 

March. 
Veal, — from 1st May till June 30th. 
Lamb, — 1st of June to 1st of September. 
Mutton, — February to May. 



CHAPTER XI. 

POULTRY. 
TO CHOOSE POULTRY. 

In a young turkey, the toes and bill are soft. 

A young goose is plump in the breast, and 
the fat white and soft. The feet are yellow, the 
web of the foot thin and tender. Boil it an hour 
before roasting. 

Young ducks are very tender under the wings, 
and the web of the foot is transparent. 

The best fowls have yellow legs ; if very old, 
the feet look stiff and worn. 

Pigeons should be quite fresh, the breast plump 
and fat. 

TO PREPARE FOWLS FOR COOKING. 

Pick out the pin feathers, take out the gall-bag 
without breaking, singe the hairs over a quick 
blaze, wash thoroughly, passing a stream of cold 
water again and again through the inside ; cut 
off the head, feet, and neck. The liver and 
gizzard well cleaned and boiled are good for the 
gravy, which may be thickened with a little 
cream and flour, well mixed, and poured in 
when the water is boiling. 

A large turkey requires three hours of roasting. 

[141] 



142 POULTRY. 

A turkey will not require so much time for 
boiling. Put it into boiling water. 

A fowl will require nearly an hour's time for 
boiling ; an hour and a half for roasting. 

Old poultry may be cut up, soaked in cold 
water, and slowly boiled in the same water for 
soups. 

Quails, woodcocks, snipes, and plover, require 
fifteen or twenty minutes for roasting. 

A chicken will require not quite an hour for 
roasting ; thirty -five minutes for boiling. 

Young chickens are best broiled or fricasseed. 

TO FRICASSEE A CHICKEN. 

Cut it into joints ; stew it in milk and water, 
seasoned with parsley, mace, thyme, lemon peel, 
and salt. Stew it an hour, and just before serv- 
ing it, add the yolks of two eggs, beaten up 
with a teacup of sweet cream, stirring it in 
gradually, but do not let it boil after the egg 
and cream are added. 

CHICKEN BAKED IN RICE. 

Cut the chicken into joints, lay it in a pud- 
ding-dish in a pint of veal gravy, with slices of 
veal, fill up the dish with boiled rice, well pressed, 
cover it with a paste of flour and water, and 
bake it one hour in a slow oven. If you have 
no veal gravy, use milk and water, salt it well, 
and pour over, the rice one or two cups of thick 
cream. 



POULTRY. 143 

A GOOSE 

Requires two hours to roast. Boil it first. 

A GREEN GOOSE 

Will require only an hour for roasting. 

A DUCK 

Requires one hour for roasting. 



Should be parboiled before roasting. 

PIGEONS 

Will roast in half an hour. Stew pigeons as 
chickens are stewed, or fricasseed. 

PARTRIDGES 

May be roasted like pigeons, but are better 
stewed, because so dry. 

Bread crumbs should be served with partridges 
and pigeons. 



SEASONS FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF POULTRY. 

Wild Birds, — 1st October till December. 

Turkey, — December and January. 

Chickens, — September and October. 

Geese, — October and November. 

Green Geese, Ducks, Chickens, — May and June. 



CHAPTER XII. 

FISH. 

BOILED COD. 

Soak the head and shoulder an hour in cold 
water with a handful of salt. Scrape it clean, 
rub a little salt into the body, flour a cloth, pin 
the fish up tight, and put it into boiling water ; 
let it boil twenty minutes, or longer if very large. 
Eat it with oyster sauce or sauce made of eggs, 
cream, and flour. 

BAKED COD. 

Make a dressing of bread crumbs, salt, pars- 
ley, and egg ; fill the body and sew it up. Put 
a pint of boiling water into the pan and bake 
half an hour; thicken the liquor with cream, 
flour, and a little tomato sauce ; let it boil up 
once and turn it over the fish. 

HADDOCK. 

Add a little white wine to the gravy, and bake 
like cod. 

SMELTS AND PERCH. 

Fry them in batter. 

[144] 



FISH. 145 

SALMON. 

Cut salmon into slices half an inch thick, and 
fry them in batter, or crumbs and egg, 

BOILED SALMON. 

Do not soak salmon, but wash it clean, rub 
salt into it, put it in a floured cloth, and put it 
into boiling water. Let six pounds boil half an 
hour. Serve it with a sauce of cream and 
eggs. 

BROILED SALMON. 

Split it to the tail and broil it very quickly. 

BOILED HALIBUT. 

The cut next to the tail is the nicest. Rub 
salt over it, soak it awhile in cold water, wash 
it, scrape it, pin it in a floured cloth, and put 
it in boiling water. Eight pounds will require 
a little more than half an hour's boiling. 

FRY HALIBUT 

Like salmon. 

BROILED HALIBUT. 

Broil the nape. 

BOILED MACKEREL. 

Draw out the inside, put it in a floured cloth, 
and boil twenty minutes. Broil also. 
10 



146 FISH. 

SALMON TROUT 

Should be broiled like salmon. 

SALT FISH, OR DUN FISH. 

Soak it over night in a large pan of water, 
wash it in fresh water the next morning, and let 
it simmer slowly and finally scald, but not boil. 
Remove the skin, and eat it with cream and 

eggs- 

Braid this with milk and eggs, and a little 
flour, and brown small cakes of it on the griddle 
for the next day's dinner or breakfast. Potato 
is good mixed with it for cakes. 

CLAMS. 

Lay them on the coals or gridiron, so that the 
shell will retain the liquor. When the shell 
opens, pour the liquor into a saucepan, cut out 
the clams and boil them. Add cream and salt, 
and pour them upon toasted bread. 



SEASONS FOR DIFFERENT KINDS OF FISH. 

Cod and Haddock, — 1st October to 1st May. 

Halibut, — February to July. 

Pickerel and Smelts, — all winter. 

Mackerel, — May to October. 

Salmon, — April to August. 

Salmon Trout, — Spring. 

Lobster, — April to August. 



CHAPTER XIII. 

PICKLES. 

Pickles should be kept in glass bottles, as 
glazing is made with poisonous substances, and 
disastrous effects have sometimes followed their 
use. 

CUCUMBERS, 

Wash and drain them in a sieve, but do not 
break the little prickers on the surface, for it 
makes them soften ; put them in a jar, and pour 
on boiling vinegar. When you gather more, 
transfer the first you gathered into another jar 
with fresh vinegar, in which is a bag of spices, 
and boil the first vinegar again, and pour it over 
your second gathering. When you have gather- 
ed all you wish to pickle, boil again the same 
vinegar, and scald the whole with it, and lay 
them back into the spiced vinegar. Examine 
them occasionally, and add a little vinegar from 
time to time. 

[147] 



148 PICKLES. 

BUTTERNUTS AND WALNUTS. 

Should be gathered about the first of July, 
at a time when a pin can be easily thrust 
through the rind. Make a brine that will bear 
an egg, skim it, and pour it on the nuts. Ten 
days after drain them, pat them into a jar or 
wooden keg, and pour over them vinegar spiced 
with cloves, allspice, ginger, mace, and horse- 
radish, but not till it is cooled after the spices 
have been boiled in it. Cover them closely and 
let them stand a year. 

MARTINOES. 

Keep them in brine ten days, changing it every 
other day. Take them out of the brine, wipe 
them, and pour on boiling spiced vinegar. They 
will be good to eat in a month, and are very 
delicate. 

PEACHES. 

They must be ripe, but not soft. Put a clove 
into each one, opposite the stem. Boil a pound 
of brown sugar in a gallon of vinegar, skim it, 
and p6ur it hot upon the peaches, and cover 
them closely. Scald the vinegar once more 
after a week or fortnight. 

NASTURTIONS. 

Gather the green seeds and throw them into 
vinegar. Boil the vinegar with salt, and pour it 
upon them. They need no spice. 



PICKLES. 149 

MANGOES. 

Select small musk melons; cut a piece out 
of one side of each, take out all the seeds, and 
fill them with cloves, horse-radish scrapings, pep- 
percorns, and mace. Pour boiling vinegar upon 
them, with a little salt in it, two or three times, 
and then put them into fresh vinegar, and cover 
them closely. 

CHERRIES. 

Stew them till they are a little tender, then 
pour on spiced vinegar. 

EGGS. 

Boil them twelve minutes, throw them into 
cold water. This will remove the shells. Boil 
red beets till soft, peel and mash them, and put 
them into cold vinegar. Add salt, mace, cloves, 
and pepper, and cover the eggs with the mix- 
ture. 

TOMATOES. 

Put the small round tomatoes into hot brine 
for a few days, then pour over them cold spiced 
vinegar, and bottle them closely. 

SWEET PICKLES. 
Cherries, peaches, raspberries, tomatoes, plums, 
and crab apples may be made into very de- 
licious sweet pickles, by adding half their 



150 PICKLES. 

weight of sugar to their full weight of spiced 
vinegar, when the spices are boiling in it, and 
pouring it over them while boiling. 

POWDERED HERBS. 

Two ounces of dried parsley, one each of 
thyme, summer savory, sweet marjoram, dried 
lemon peel, all dried thoroughly, powdered fine 
and mixed together, and bottled. Each is good 
by itself for soups, &c. 



CHAPTER XIV. 

MISCELLANEOUS. 
RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 

Six pints of raspberries to a quart of vii egar. 
After a few days, mash them and strain them, 
add two pounds of crushed sugar, boil it half an 
hour, skim it, and when cold, bottle it. 

HONEY VINEGAR. 

A pound of honey to a gallon of vinegar, stir 
it well and set it in the sun. 

CURRANT SHRUB. 

Boil currant juice for a few minutes with 
sugar, a pound to a pint. Stir it while cooling, 
and then bottle it. A table-spoonful in a tumbler 
of water makes a refreshing beverage. 

SARSAPARILLA MEAD. 

One ounce of essence of sarsaparilla, one of 
cream of tartar, one of flour, three of tartaric acid, 
three pounds of sugar, and three quarts of water. 

[151] 



152 MISCELLANEOUS. 

Strain and bottle it, and in a fortnight it will be 
good. 

LEMON SYRUP. 

One pound of sugar to one pint of juice. 
Strain it through a flannel, wrung out in hot 
water, and bottle it. It will keep well. 

VINEGAR, — THE GERMAN METHOD OF 
MAKING IT. 

" Vinegar," Mr. Youmans says, " is often 
adulterated with oil of vitriol. To detect it, 
evaporate a portion of the vinegar in a porcelain 
vessel ; if towards the end of the evaporation, suf- 
focating fumes are given off, and a black, charred 
residuum is left, sulphuric acid is indicated. Pure 
vinegar evolves only an agreeable vinegar odor, 
and leaves a brownish deposit, not charred. 
Pepper, mustard, and other acri'd substances are 
sometimes added to weak vinegar to give it 
strength. By saturating a portion of the acid 
with an alkali, the acrid taste of these sub- 
stances will become sensible. 

" Vinegar, which has been long exposed to 
the air, and particularly if it is not strong, is 
subject to a peculiar putrefaction, by which a 
thick, slimy substance, (vinegar mother,) is pro- 
duced ; also infusoria, (vinegar eels) ; these may 
be destroyed and further change arrested by boil- 
ing the vinegar. 



MISCELLANEOUS. 153 

" If vinegar is too weak, it may be concen- 
trated by freezing it. The watery portion will 
freeze sooner than the acetic acid, which may 
be drawn off before the whole mixture is quite 
frozen." 

It is generally a very long process to make 
vinegar, because the atmospheric air is essential 
to the process, and in the ordinary mode, the 
materials are left exposed to the air for many 
months, by leaving a hole open in the barrel. 
The Germans make it in thirty-six hours in the 
following manner : 

Perforate a clean cask with a row of small 
holes, at one fourth of its height. Fill the cask 
lightly with shavings, already soaked in vinegar. 
Beech shavings are the best, and they must be 
soaked in vinegar, because a mixture of pure 
alcohol and water will not absorb oxygen from 
the air. Have a tin pan perforated with holes 
fitted to the top of the barrel, or to a large hole 
in the barrel head. Let threads be swung through 
these holes, and pour into the pan proof spirit 
diluted with four times its weight of water, 
mixed with a very little honey or yeast. This 
will trickle down gradually upon the shavings, 
where a large surface is exposed to the action of 
the oxygen of the air; rapid absorption takes 
place, the temperature is raised, and acetic acid 
is rapidly formed. It may be passed through 



154 MISCELLANEOUS. 

the shavings three or four times in thirty-six 
hours, and is then ready for use. 

It may be collected from a bung-hole near the 
bottom, and the shavings, once saturated, will 
answer as long as one chooses to use them. 



CHAPTER XV. 

DIET FOR THE SICK. 

A distinguished physician remarked that 
homoeopathy has taught the world one truth, 
that little or no medicine is needed for health. 

Regimen and diet are the two great means of 
restoration as well as of prevention. 

I subjoin a few receipts for common com- 
plaints. The greater number of complaints may 
be alleviated, if not cured, by a change of diet. 

Bread made of unbolted wheat, or rye, or corn 
meal; stewed prunes or apples, ripe tomatoes, 
cooked or uncooked, will prove a good remedy 
for constipation. 

The greatest scourge in our climate is that 
class of diseases which are called summer com- 
plaints. They are chiefly caused by eating un- 
ripe fruits, which are pernicious even when 
cooked. As soon as currants are large enough 
to be eaten, they are gathered, while perfectly 
green and hard, and used for sauces, pies, and 
tarts. Apples and gooseberries are eaten in the 
same manner. There are very few things more 

[155] 



156 DIET FOR THE SICK. 

injurious to the human stomach than a green 
apple. Fruit in its season is perfectly healthful 
food, and if eaten when ripe, and at meal times, 
it would probably never disorder healthy diges- 
tive powers, and would often restore dyspeptics 
to health. In winter, food which contains a 
larger portion of carbon and hydrogen is re- 
quired, to produce animal heat, but in summer, 
vegetables and fruits are the appropriate diet. 
They contain a large proportion of water, 
which cools the blood, and exudes through the 
skin, thus keeping the temperature of the body 
at a low degree. 

But if the natural law is broken, and diarrhoea, 
and dysentary supervene, the best diet is porridge 
made with prepared flour, biscotine, rennet whey, 
mutton broth, &c. 

PREPARED FLOUR. 

Tie up a pint of flour very tightly in a cloth, 
and put into boiling water. Let it boil three 
hours. When untied, the gluten of the flour 
will be found in a mass on the outside of the 
ball. Remove this, and the inside will prove a 
dry powder, which is very astringent. Grate 
this, and wet a portion of it in cold milk. Boil 
a pint of milk, and when it is at the boiling 
point, stir in as much of the wet mixture as will 
thicken it to the quality of palatable porridge. 
Stir in a little salt, and let this be the sole 



DIET FOR THE SICK. 157 

article of diet until the disease has disappeared. 
Relieve it first by toasted bread, or very delicate 
mutton broth, which latter is also astringent. 
If the disease has not progressed to the degree 
of inflammation, this diet will generally preclude 
all need of medicine. 

BISCOTINE. 

Press a pint of dry, well-sifted flour, very com- 
pactly into a tin pan, and let it slowly bake in a 
moderate oven till it has become very delicately 
brown, or dark cream color. It will be very 
hard, and must be grated for use, and can be 
used for porridge, like the prepared flour. 

MUCILAGE. 

Mucilage of boiled sheep's trotters is good for 
diarrhoea. 

ESSENCE OF BEEF. 
Strip three pounds of tender beef quite fine, 
and put it into a corked bottle without water. 
Place the bottle over a slow fire in a kettle of 
cold water, and let it come to a boil, and keep 
on boiling three hours. Decant the juice ex- 
tracted from the beef, and it will prove a very 
strengthening, aromatic beverage, which, with 
the addition of a little salt, will often set well 
upon a stomach which will bear no other food. 
It may even be given to infants at the breast, 



158 DIET FOR THE SICK. 

when they are much reduced by diarrhoea. It 
may be thickened with biscotine or prepared 
flour with advantage. 

The remedy for dysentery proper is cold water 
applied externally by sitz-baths, and injections, 
and drunk freely. 

RICE WATER. 

Boil rice till it is perfectly dissolved, by adding 
water continually, strain it from all particles, and 
it will be a suitable diet for patients recovering 
from disordered bowels. It is essential that it 
be free from all particles, which lodge in the 
intestines and may cause inflammation. 

TOAST WATER. 

If well toasted bread, toasted to the verge of 
burning, yet not burnt, be soaked in water for 
the sick, the water that is decanted from it will 
be freed from all deleterious substances floating 
in the atmosphere, which are absorbed by the 
toasted bread. 

RENNET WHEY. 

Dry rennet carefully. If it is salted, it may 
be kept even in summer. An inch square of 
rennet, (well soaked if it has been salted,) will 
turn a pint of lukewarm milk into whey in a 
few minutes. 

Rennet may be preserved in Madeira wine. 



DIET FOR THE SICK. 159 

A table-spoonful of a quart of wine in which 
one rennet has been standing, will turn a quart 
of lukewarm milk to whey in a few minutes. 
This is very good food for a weak stomach, if 
the curd is eaten while very soft, or if the whey 
alone is taken. But after it has stood an hour, 
or even half an hour, the curds become too hard 
to be digestible. 

Total abstinence from food for several days 
is often an excellent remedy for stomach com- 
plaints. 

WINE WHEY. 

Two glasses of wine to a pint of boiling milk ; 
take it from the fire, and after it has stood a few 
minutes strain it through muslin or a delicate 
sieve. Sweeten it with loaf sugar. Add hot 
water if too strong. 

OATMEAL GRUEL. 

One large spoonful of oatmeal wet in cold 
water, to one quart of boiling water. Boil 
gently half an hour, and add salt, sugar, and 
raisins if allowed, but the latter should not be 
swallowed by the sick. 

GROUND RICE 

Prepared in the same way ; one teaspoonful 
to half a pint of boiling water ; let it boil up 
once. 



160 DIET FOR THE SICK. 

INDIAN MEAL GRUEL 

Must be boiled much longer. 

PEARL SAGO 

Must be soaked in cold water before boiling, 
and then quite dissolved. Season to the taste. 

TAPIOCA 

Should be soaked over night and boiled till 
soft. 

ARROW-ROOT 

Should be wet in cold water, and boiling water 
poured upon it. Add lemon juice and sugar. 

CREAM TEA. 

Four spoonfuls of boiling water to one spoon- 
ful of sweet cream, and a little loaf sugar. Deli- 
cate for the tenderest infant, but the cream must 
be genuine, not city cream. 

CALF'S FEET TEA. 

Two calf's feet boiled in a quart of water, a 
quart of milk, and baked in an oven with the 
addition of lemon juice. Bake three hours, and 
remove the fat. Eat with sugar. 

FEVER DRAUGHT. 

Put a few sprigs of cleanly washed balm, 
sage, and sorrel into a jar. Slice the pulp of a 



DIET FOR THE SICK. 161 

lemon, grate in a little of the peel, pour upon it 
all three pints of boiling water and cork it tight 
for use. 

ANOTHER FEVER DRAUGHT. 

Boil an ounce and a half of tamarinds, three 
ounces of currants, two of stoned raisins, in three 
pints of water. Boil them down one third, and 
strain them. 

PARCHED CORN TEA. 

Pound parched corn pretty fine, pour boiling 
water upon it, let it boil a little, and add sugar 
and milk if liked. It is good for teething chil- 
dren, and for any weak stomach. 

HERB TEAS 

Should be taken as soon as made. 

Mothers, during the period of pregnancy, 
should eat less than usual, instead of more, as 
they often do, and their diet should be a select 
one. In this way much uncomfortable feeling 
may be avoided. The diet should avoid lime 
as much as possible, because it is better for the 
future development of the child as well as for 
the present good of the mother, that the bones 
should not be hard, and should consist of acid 
fruits and vegetables, and those farinaceous 
grains that contain the least of that ingredient. 
11 



162 DIET FOR THE SICK. 

Rice, tapioca, sago, ripe fruits, especially those 
of an acid nature, ripe vegetables, filtered rain- 
water, meats, and a moderate use of milk and 
eggs, are recommended on the chemical and phy- 
siological principles, which can only be indicated 
in a work of this nature. 

All indigestion should be carefully guarded 
against. During the period of nursing, bread- 
stuffs and milk should be resumed, and all acids, 
green vegetables, fruits, and wines, should be 
discontinued. Cordials and porter, which are 
often taken by mothers and wet-nurses " to make 
more milk," lay in children the foundations of 
future punishment. The poor, who are obliged 
to leave their children, in order to earn bread for 
their support, and who know nothing of physi- 
ology, or that alcohol has a specific effect upon 
the brain, may be pardoned for giving paregoric 
and other sleeping potions to their infants to 
keep them asleep and out of danger, but mothers 
who know better cannot be pardoned for leav- 
ing their children to the care of nurses, who 
are well known, as a class, to administer sleep- 
ing potions to the children entrusted to their 
care, in order to save themselves trouble. In 
view of these things, what wonder is there that 
intemperance pervades society, high as well as 
low? 

Nothing but a knowledge of physiology will 
ever stem the tide of these abuses. No mother 



DIET FOR THE SICK. 163 

should consider herself qualified for that office 
until she has made it a careful study. "When 
education is precisely what it should be, every 
mother will be a physiologist, and all nurses 
will be physicians. 

A RECEIPT FOR WASHING. 

To a quart of soft soap, add a quart of water 
and two ounces of borax ; dissolve by heat, and 
then allow it to cool. Place the clothes in water 
over night; in the morning put a pint cup of the 
above mixture into a kettle holding from eight 
to ten gallons of cold water. Put it over the 
fire, let it come to the boiling point, and boil an 
hour. Wash out of this boiling water and 
rinse well. Begin each boil in the same man- 
ner, putting in the same proportion of the mix- 
ture. Remember to put the clothes into the 
water while it is cold. 

LATEST DISCOVERY, — A GERMAN RECEIPT. 

To wash colored articles, whether silk, cotton, 
linen or woollen, without starting any of the 
colors, grate a few potatoes into cold water, and 
wash the article with the solution. After being 
thoroughly wet with the potato, rub on soap 
and warm water to take out grease. If the 
article is nice, like merino or satins, strain the 
potato, and wash with the liquid only. Reserve 



1G4 DIET FOR THE SICK. 

a portion for rinsing water, if there are more 
colors than one. The colors that generally run 
freely will stand fast, and the starch of the po- 
tato will impart the required stiffness to silk 
or satin. 



APPENDIX. 



APPENDIX 



[For the benefit of those who would like to know something of 
French Cookery, I subjoin a few French receipts.] 

It has been truly said that the French are a nation 
of cooks, and I would not be understood to speak dis- 
paragingly of them, when I say it has been truly said. 
They have had the good sense to observe that health, 
and therefore to a great degree happiness, is dependent 
upon good cooking, and with their national readiness, 
they have applied themselves to the task of improving 
the art. The same objections are found in their 
cookery as in that of all other peoples. Melted but- 
ter, lard, and oil enter largely into it, but their nicety 
is shown in the specific direction in almost every re- 
ceipt, to skim off every particle of the fat, which I find 
in the Cookery Books of no other people. 

All the deleterious effects of partaking of fatty food 
are not, however, obviated by this, for a portion of the 
corrosive acids, which are the product of all fatty mat- 
ter heated to the boiling point, is preserved and mixed 
with the food. To remove as much of them as pos- 
sible, by careful skimming, should not be forgotten 
in those cases where we cannot wholly separate fatty 
matter from our cooked meats. If the gravy in a 
baking pan is set in the cold air for a few minutes, or 

[167] 



168 APPENDIX. 

turned into a cool dish, the fatty matter will rise and form 
a cake upon the top, and can then be removed, leaving 
the proper juices of the meat, which may be thickened 
with cream and flour, and flavored with lemon or 
tomato, making an innocent gravy. But if meat is 
properly cooked, the juices that flow from it, when 
cut, constitute the most healthful gravy, and all that 
a healthy appetite would require. Tomato sauce, egg 
sauce, oyster sauce, may be added for garnishing, and 
contribute to health and nourishment, as well as to the 
pleasures of the palate; — legitimate pleasures, when 
not indulged at the expense of health. 

The delicate flavor of French dishes is often im- 
parted by a sprig of thyme, of parsley, of sorrel, or a 
bay-leaf. 

Many articles are made into savory dishes which, in 
our American haste and carelessness, are thrown away 
as useless. The heads, brains, cheeks, ears, tails, and 
feet of animals may be made into nutritious soups, or 
jellies, flavored with a bouquet, as Soyer expresses it, 
gathered at the door or in the garden, or if these are 
not at hand, with a lemon, a tomato, &c. A few 
receipts are subjoined, which will be suggestive, as 
well as specifically instructive. 

To cook precisely upon the French plan, a few 
utensils are necessary. First, the brazing-pan, a 
wide vessel, made of galvanized iron, with an air-tight 
cover, to secure all the aromatic properties of the sub- 
stances cooked; secondly, a pot-au-feu, an earthen pot 
for the boiling of soups ; and thirdly, a saucepan, or 
stew-pan, an open vessel of galvanized iron, or iron 
lined with porcelain. The brazing-pan answers to our 



APPENDIX. 169 

old-fashioned baking-pan, which used to hang upon a 
trammel over the fire, with live charcoal upon the 
cover. Our modern stove ovens are substituted for 
the former methods of baking, but the brazing-pan 
will be useful in an oven, for much of the aroma of 
meat escapes by its not being covered. It will also 
answer for freshening stale bread, by restoring it to 
the oven in a covered pan, as indicated in a former 
receipt. 

Broiling upon a soapstone griddle, rubbed with salt, 
may be substituted for broiling over an open fire. 
The griddle must be very hot, and the meat often 
turned. Frying always is objectionable. 

FRENCH BOUILLI. 

Soak the meat, destined for soup, for one or two 
hours in cold water, in the proportion of a gallon of 
water to every six pounds. Then put it into the 
pot-au-feu, which must not stand upon the hottest 
part of the fire at first. Let it simmer, and skim it. 
[The skimming will not be necessary if the meat is 
previously deprived of all its fat. Ed.] 

After it has gradually warmed, place it where it will 
boil, but just before it boils, put in a large table- 
spoonful of salt, two carrots, four turnips, a head of 
celery, half a pound of liver, eight young leeks, (two 
old ones will answer,) a parsnip, three or four cloves, 
two onions, one of which has been roasted, and let all 
simmer for five hours. Occasionally add a little cold 
water. Serve the meat and vegetables together, and 
throw slices of bread into the tureen when the bouilli 
is put into it to be served. If one prefers to strain 



170 APPExNDIX. 

this soup, let the beef be chopped fine. If not, let it 
only be cut into strips. If put in whole, less nourish- 
ment will be extracted from it, but it will be a better 
piece of meat to accompany the bouilli. [The French 
do not strain soups through a cloth, because they think 
it deprives them of their finest flavor, but through a 
hair sieve. Ed.] 

STOCK FOR ALL SOUPS. 

Take a knuckle of veal and cut it into small pieces ; 
rub a stew-pan with some of the fat of veal, and put 
into the pan, which should be a two gallon vessel, half 
a pint of water, the chopped veal, half a pint of rich 
milk, or a gill of cream, two ounces of salt, three 
onions, with a clove or two in each, a turnip, a carrot, 
and half a head of celery. Cover the stew-pan [the 
brazing-pan will answer the purpose]. Set it over a 
sharp fire, and stir its contents Avith a wooden spoon 
until the bottom of the pan is covered with a thick, 
whitish glaze, which Mill gently adhere to the spoon. 
Fill the stew-pan at this moment with cold water, and 
the instant before it would boil, place it in a position 
where it may simmer for three hours. Skim off all grease 
and scum carefully. Pass it through a fine hair sieve, 
and it is ready for use, and will keep well. If beef is 
used, it must be allowed double time to simmer, and 
seven pounds of beef is the proportion to six of veal. 
To color the soup, add a little browning. 

BROWNING. 

Put two ounces of sugar into a stew-pan, and place 
it over the fire. Stir it with a wooden spoon as soon 



APPENDIX. 171 

as it begins to melt, and when it looks black, pour 
over it half a pint of cold water. Leave it to dissolve, 
and when prepared, use a few drops of it for a soup. 
It will keep well in a bottle. 

GLAZE. 

Make a soup stock as above directed, but without 
the salt. Strain it through a sieve and restore it to 
the stew-pan with the meat, and let it boil four hours, 
to obtain 'all the nourishment from the meat. Then 
put both stocks together again, and let it boil as 
rapidly as possible, stirring it occasionally with the 
wooden spoon. When reduced to three pints, let it 
boil more slowly, and skim it when required ; when 
reduced to a quart, place it where it will boil rapidly 
again, until it forms a thick glaze, which will adhere 
to the spoon, of a fine yellowish brown color. 

If to be kept long, pour it into a bladder. Veal 
makes the best glaze. 

These soup stocks and this glaze make a great addi- 
tion to vegetable soups. 

JULIENNE SOUP. 

This is a national soup, as well as the French bouilli. 
It is made in June and July, when all vegetables are 
in season. To be in perfection, a small quantity of 
every kind of vegetable should be used, but a less 
variety will make a good soup. Take half a pound, in 
fair proportions to each other, of carrots, turnips, 
onions, celery, leeks, &c, which cut into small fillets 
an inch in length and a quarter of an inch in thickness. 
Wash them dry, put them into a stew-pan with half a 



172 APPENDIX. 

pint of cream and a teaspoonful of powdered sugar ; 
toss them in this over a sharp fire for ten minutes, 
until they are covered with a thin glaze, but do not 
let them become brown, for that would destroy the 
flavor of the soup. When done, pour two quarts of 
clear stock over them, set it upon the fire, and when 
it is nearly boiling remove it to a place where it can 
only simmer, until the vegetables are quite tender ; 
half an hour's simmering will probably answer. There 
should be half a pound of vegetables to two quarts of 
stock. Just before it is done, add a little sorrel, cab- 
bage, lettuce, and a few peas. Cut all vegetables into 
equal pieces, else some will be tender, while others 
remain hard. 

AUTUMN SOUP. 

Put a gallon of water into a saucepan, cut up two 
pounds of cabbage, four cabbage lettuces, a handful of 
sorrel, or the juice of half a lemon, two finely sliced 
cucumbers, and half a pint of rich cream. Stir these 
over a brisk fire until very little liquid remains, then 
stir in two table-spoonfuls of flour, wet with a little 
soup stock ; pour on three quarts of stock ; add a 
quart of young fresh peas ; boil it half an hour, and 
season with one teaspoonful of salt and two of sugar. 
This is a delicious soup. 

To make a puree of these soups, pass them through 
a coarse hair sieve, or a fine wire sieve. A puree of 
any single vegetable, beans, peas, &c, or of any union 
of vegetables, may be obtained by boiling them in only 
sufficient water to make them of the desired thickness, 
which will be a mush, rather than a liquid. 



APPENDIX. 



173 



PUR^E OF CARROT. 

To five or six large carrots, scraped and sliced, leav- 
ing out the centre, add a large onion, peeled and sliced, 
a turnip, a few sprigs of parsley, a quarter of a pound 
of corned beef, half a pint of cream, a pint of water, 
or of soup stock, in which two ounces of flour are 
mixed smoothly. When the carrot is tender, add five 
pints of stock, season with salt and sugar, (one tea- 
spoonful of salt to two of sugar,) and let it all boil a 
quarter of an hour. Pass it through a hair sieve and 
serve. This puree should be red. 

FRENCH ANGLER'S STEW OF FISH. 

Take three or four pounds of fish of various kinds, 
carp, pike, trout, tench, eels, &c, and cut them into 
pieces of equal size. Put them into a stew-pan, with 
about a table-spoonful of salt, half as much sugar, 
half as much pepper, four onions sliced, four glasses 
of port or sherry, or the juice of half a lemon, and 
half a pint of water. Stew it until tender, tossing the 
bits of fish occasionally. When tender to the finger, 
mix a table-spoonful of flour with a gill of cream, and 
mix it in by shaking the pan. Let it boil a few minutes 
longer. Reduce the sauce till it adheres to the back 
of the spoon, and season it with a few sprigs of thyme 
or bay-leaf. If any pieces of the fish are tender be- 
fore the others, take them out and reserve them till 
the rest are done. 

CREAM SAUCE FOR FISH. 

Put two yolks of eggs into a stew-pan, with the 
juice of a lemon, a little salt, a very little pepper, and 



174 APPENDIX. 

a half pint of cream. Stir it over a moderate fire with 
a wooden spoon, and when on the point of being 
scalded, add another gill of cream. Do not let it boil, 
but when nearly boiling again, pass it through a hair 
sieve, and serve it with any boiled fish. 

LOBSTER BUTTER. 

Take half the spawn of a lobster, pound it well in 
a mortar, add six ounces of fresh butter, and rub 
it through a sieve, and keep it in a cold place till 
wanted. 

MA1TRE D'HOTEL BUTTER. 

Mix together a quarter of a pound of fresh butter, 
one table-spoonful of chopped parsley, the juice of 
two lemons, half a teaspoonful of salt, and a very 
little white pepper. Keep it in a cool place. 

TO DRESS A CALF'S HEAD. 

Soak the head for ten minutes in lukewarm water, 
powder it well with rosin, dip it into a large quantity 
of scalding water, and, holding it by the ear, scrape 
off the hair with the back of a knife. When clean, 
take out the eyes, cut out the tongue, remove the jaw- 
bone with the teeth, saw lengthwise through the skull 
without injuring the brains, which must be carefully 
taken out, and put for a few hours into lukewarm 
water, to disgorge, [that is, to rinse out the blood.] 

Make a stock by putting into the brazing-pan two 
or three carrots and onions, six cloves, a pint of cream, 
a bouquet of parsley, thyme, and bay-leaves, and after 
stirring this together for twenty minutes over the fire, 



APPENDIX. 



175 



add a pint of water. When this is warm, mix a 
quarter of a pound of flour with a gallon of water, 
slice a lemon, add a quarter of a pound of salt, and 
lay the calf's head into the stock. Let it be entirely 
covered, else the uncovered part will have a dark look, 
and simmer it gently till it is tender. 

sheep's head. 

Choose a fat head, put it into a gallon of water for 
two hours, then cleanse it well, saw it in two, cut 
away the ends of the jaws and the uncovered part of 
the brain, put it into the stew-pan, with a similar 
stock to the above, adding, when nearly boiling, half a 
teacupful of pearl barley, if at hand. Let it simmer 
for three hours. Boil the brain for ten minutes in a 
little vinegar, salt, and water ; cut it in pieces, season 
it with parsley and salt, and serve it under the head. 
Serve the head thus, or as a soup. 

Lamb's head will need less time to become tender. 
Half a sheep's liver, boiled for thirty minutes in a 
quart of water, cut into small cubes and set on the 
fire again, with the addition of a spoonful of flour in 
half a pint of the broth, a little grated nutmeg, or 
pepper and salt, stirred till boiling, and then allowed 
to simmer for a few minutes, will be an additional 
nicety in this dish. 

BOASTED SWEETBREADS. 

Soak the sweetbreads in lukewarm water to dis- 
gorge, for three or four hours, then pour boiling water 
over them, and let them remain in it two or three 
minutes, not longer ; put them into the stew-pan with 



176 APPENDIX. 

a few slices of carrot and turnip, a little parsley, 
thyme, bay-leaf, and a blade of mace, cover with a 
little water or soup stock, and let them boil for twenty 
minutes ; dry them on a cloth, egg them and roll them 
in bread crumbs, and brown them in the oven ; lay 
them upon toasted bread, strain the liquor in which 
they were boiled, add to it a little cream, and pour it 
over the toast. 

STEWED CALF'S EARS. 

Cut out and lay the boiled ears on a board, and 
make incisions through the gristly part of an inch 
in length. If not quite tender, restore them to the 
soup till done. Lay them on the warm dish, turn over 
the top of the ear so that it may form a round ; put a 
piece of brain in the centre or a little veal stuffing or 
forcemeat, and pour over it tomato or caper sauce, or 
egg it over, roll it in bread crumbs, and brown it in 
the oven. 

CUTLETS A LA VICTIME. 

This is a very nourishing morceau for an invalid. 
Cut three cutlets from the neck of mutton, take all 
the fat from one, place it between the two others, 
which may not be trimmed, press them together so 
that the inside one be hidden from sight, tie them 
together, and broil over a very strong fire for ten 
minutes ; then cut the string and serve the middle one 
only, with a little salt sprinkled over it, upon a hot 
dish. It will have imbibed all the nourishment of the 
outer cutlets. 



APPENDIX. 



177 



FRICASSEED FOWL. 

Cut a fowl into eight pieces, wash them, lay the 
pieces into a brazing-pan, or any covered stew-pan, 
pour on boiling water, season with a teaspoonful of 
salt, a bouquet of parsley and thyme, three or four 
cloves, and a blade of mace. Let it boil twenty 
minutes. Strain through a sieve, trim the pieces of 
fowl nicely, put half a pint of stock mixed with flour 
into the stew-pan, let it boil a few minutes, restore the 
pieces of fowl, add a gill of cream, mixed with the 
beaten yolks of two eggs, [called a liaison in French 
cookery,] and stir it quickly over the fire, but do not 
let it boil again. Serve in pyramidal form upon a hot 
dish, pouring the broth over the fowl. If any dish is 
to be warmed up again which contains a liaison, it 
should be done in a basin covered tightly, and set into 
a kettle of boiling water, else the sauce will be curdled. 
A glass of wine added, when the sauce is boiling, will 
improve the fricassee. 

PEASE PUDDING. 

Tie up a pint of split peas in a cloth, leaving them 
room to swell, but no more. Put them into cold 
water, and let them boil till tender ; turn them out of 
the cloth, and rub them through a hair sieve. Add 
half a pint of cream, season with salt ; mix all together 
with three yolks and one whole egg ; flour a pudding 
eloth, place it in a small basin or bowl, pour in the 
mixture, tie it up and set the basin in a kettle of boil- 
ing water for an hour ; when done, turn it from the 
cloth into a warm pudding-dish. 
12 



178 APPENDIX. 

SNOW EGGS. 

Flavor half a pint of milk and a little sugar with 
orange-flower or peach water, or any other essence ; 
have ready the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff 
froth ; (this may be done in warm weather in a basin 
that stands upon ice, or even in cold water;) add a 
little powdered sugar very gradually. While the milk 
is boiling, drop a table-spoonful of the egg at a time 
into it, endeavoring to keep the form of an egg ; turn 
it over when fully set, take it out in a strainer and 
place it on a sieve, and arrange them in a crown on a 
dish; when all done, beat the yolks of four of the 
eggs in a stew-pan with a little sugar, and a few drops 
of orange-flower water or rose water, pour part of the 
boiling milk into it, to make a stiff custard, put it on 
the fire till it thickens, and pour it over the whites. 
Serve hot or cold. 

CAULIFLOWER PUKE'e. 

Cleanse the cauliflowers, which should be small, 
thick, and firm, and let them lie an hour in salt and 
water, then rinse them in fresh water very thoroughly. 
Put them into boiling water, enough to cover them 
well, add two ounces of salt and a gill of cream. Put 
into a stew-pan a pint of soup stock, a turnip, and a 
little celery, cut up fine, then slice in the cauliflower, 
and when all is tender, mix in smoothly two table- 
spoonfuls of flour, two quarts of soup stock, and half 
a pint of milk. Stir it constantly until it boils, add 
one teasponful of salt and two of sugar, and rub it 
through a hair sieve. Restore it to the stew-pan, boil 
it five minutes, stirring it steadily and skimming it. 



APPENDIX. 179 

Throw toasted bread into the tureen when it is served, 
and stir in a gill of cream. 

SPINACH. 

Wash it in several waters, boil it ten minutes, or 
till tender, drain it on a sieve, pressing it with the 
hand, chop it up fine, put it into a stew-pan, with half 
a pint of cream, and a teaspoonful of salt, restore it to 
the fire in a little warm broth or soup stock, for a few 
minutes, and serve it hot. 

BOILED RICE. 

Throw a pound of good rice, well washed, into two 
quarts of boiling water ; when well swelled, drain it 
on a sieve, put it into a basin or tin pail, and stand 
this into salted water that is boiling briskly, and let 
it stand until perfectly tender. Boiled thus, every 
grain will be separate. 

PUFF PASTE. 

A French cook puts the yolk of an egg and the 
juice of a lemon into the midst of a pound of dry 
flour upon the moulding-board, adds a pinch of salt, 
mixes it with cold water into a flexible paste, and dries 
it off with flour, using the hand as little as possible. 
Let it stand two minutes, and then spread half a pint 
of rich cream over it, fold it over from the edges, and 
roll it repeatedly, turning it often; lay it upon a 
floured baking sheet, and place it upon ice, if possible 
for half an hour, then roll it again. Cold water or 
ice are essential to this paste. 



180 APPENDIX. 

confectioners' paste. 
Place half a pound of flour upon the moulding- 
board, and put into a hole in the centre six ounces of 
sifted sugar ; mix it into rather a stiff paste with four 
eggs, the eggs and sugar being first dissolved together 
and beaten, and knead it well. If too stiff, add more 
eggs ; if too soft, more flour. 

whipped cream or souffle\ 
Put a quart of cream into a bowl with a quarter of 
a pound of powdered sugar, flavored with orange- 
flower water or lemon syrup, and whip the cream over 
a sieve which stands upon another bowl. As the 
cream rises in a froth, place it on the sieve with a 
spoon, and let it drain into the bowl. Put back what 
goes through into your whipping bowl, and continue 
whisking it until it is all used. Serve it in glasses 
or upon jelly or marmalade. It may be frozen if 
desired. 

CUSTARD FOR PUDDING. 

Add two eggs to a pint of milk, and beat them well 
together ; then sift in a quarter of a pound of sugar, 
half a teaspoonful of cinnamon and nutmeg, and a 
bay-leaf, (or any flavoring that is agreeable, or none 
whatever if that is preferred, for eggs have a flavor of 
their own, lost by boiling.) Let this mixture come 
almost to the boiling point, but remove it quickly from 
the fire when it begins to thicken. Use it for pud- 
dings with fruit, or serve it in glasses. 

JELLY CREAMS. 

Add to any jelly, marmalade, or even ripe fruit, 



APPENDIX. 181 

the juice of two lemons, a pint of water, an ounce 
and a half of isinglass, (dissolved in the water,) or 
clarified calf's feet jelly, and stir them together in a 
bowl set in ice. When it is nearly cold, stir in quickly 
nearly a pint of whipped cream, and leave the mould 
upon ice till wanted. Ripe strawberries may be used 
instead of fruit, jelly, or marmalade, if the calf's feet 
or isinglass jelly is cold but not yet set. Dip the 
strawberries into the jelly, and then put them around 
the mould, and fill up with the whipped cream. 

SOUFFLE BISCUITS. 

Rub the rind of a lemon into a pound of sugar, 
pound it in a mortar, beat it into the yolks of five 
eggs, add a gill of well- whipped cream and five ounces 
of flour, stir it lightly, then add the well-beaten 
whites ; cut papers three inches square, turn them up 
half an inch all round, and fill them three fourths full ; 
bake them in a moderate oven for fifteen minutes, and 
when done, shake sugar over them, and serve them 
immediately. 

LEMON JELLY. 

Take six lemons, remove the rind and pith of one, 
grate the rind into a basin, and squeeze the juice of 
the others into it. Put a quarter of a pound of sugar 
into a stew-pan with half a pint of water, and when 
these have boiled to a stiff syrup, take them off the 
fire and add the juice and rind of the lemons. Cover 
the stew-pan and replace it upon the fire. When it 
begins to boil again, skim it carefully, and add by 
degrees a wine glass of water to clarify it. Let it boil 



182 APPENDIX. 

another minute, and then add half an ounce of good 
isinglass, dissolved in boiling water, or clarified calf's 
feet jelly, dissolved in cold water. Pass it through a 
jelly-bag. 

Five oranges and one lemon will make orange 
jelly. Grate the rind of two of the oranges and half 
that of the lemon. 

To remove jelly from a mould, dip the mould in 
lukewarm water, strike it gently, holding it in the 
right hand, place the left on it, turn it over, and if it 
shakes, let it slip off your hand upon the dish, and 
remove the mould. 

SUGAR OF LEMON. 

Rub the rind of some fresh lemons upon a large 
piece of sugar, and as it discolors it, scrape it off with 
a knife. Dry it upon a sieve, and bottle it, when you 
have obtained as much as you wish. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

Put a pound of powdered sugar into a large bowl, 
which must stand in a bain-marie, [kettle of hot water,] 
sift a pound of flour upon a sheet of paper, break 
twelve eggs into the bowl, which must be beaten till 
warm and rather thick, then take it from the bain- 
marie, and continue to beat it until it is cold. Add 
the chopped rind of a lemon and a pound of flour, 
which must be mixed in lightly with a wooden spoon. 
Dust a little flour upon your buttered baking -tin, 
shaking all out that does not adhere to the butter on 
the tin, pour in the mixture and bake it an hour in a 
moderate oven. When done it will feel firm to the 



APPENDIX. 183 

touch, but the surest way to ascertain its condition is 
to pass a clean broom corn through it. Turn it upon 
a sieve to cool, as a cold plate would make it fall and 
render it heavy. 

MACAROONS. 

Blanch and skin half a pound of sweet almonds, dry 
them well on a sieve, pound them in a mortar, with a 
pound and a half of cracked sugar, and pass the whole 
through a wire sieve ; pound it in the mortar again 
with the whites of two eggs, and after they are well 
mixed, add the white of another, and so on until you 
have used the whites of eight eggs. They will make 
a soft paste, which may be laid upon paper in drops 
the size of a walnut ; sift sugar over them and bake 
in a slow oven till they are of a yellowish brown ; 
they are done when they are firmly set. Take them 
from the paper by wetting the under side of it. 

RATAFRAS. 

These are made like the above, but leaving out 
two ounces of sweet, and substituting two of bitter 
almonds. They require a warmer oven and more 
time for baking. 

CLOUTED CREAM. 

Strain the milk, while warm from the cow, into % 
pan so that it will be about three inches deep, and let 
it stand for twenty-four hours. Place it then gently 
upon a slow fire, that it may gradually grow warm, 
but not boil, which would spoil it ; when the cream 
forms a ring in the middle, put a little of it aside with 



184 APPENDIX. 

the finger, and if a few bubbles rise in that spot, it is 
done. It will generally take from half to three quar- 
ters of an hour. Let it stand in a cool place another 
twenty-four hours, then skim it and throw a little 
sugar on the top of the cream. 

MERINGUES A LA CUILLEREE. 

Whisk the whites of three eggs to a stiff froth, 
pound and sift a quarter of a pound of crushed sugar, 
sift it lightly over the egg, and mix it in perfectly but 
gently with a wooden spoon. Then with a table-spoon 
lay them on white paper in the shape of eggs, sift 
powdered sugar thickly over them, let them stand ten 
minutes, shake off the sugar that does not adhere, 
place them on wetted boards, and put them into a very 
moderate oven. When the outside becomes quite 
crisp, turn them topsy-turvy and take off the papers, 
dip a teaspoon into hot water and clear out the inside ; 
dust "them with powdered sugar, dry them upon a 
sieve, and when ready to use them, fill them with 
whipped cream, and stick two together. 

BRIOCHE ROLLS. 

Place a quarter of a pound of flour upon a moulding 
board, make a hole in the centre and pour in less than 
a gill of warm water, in which you have dissolved a 
quarter of an ounce of hard yeast ; mix it into a stiff 
delicate paste, and lay it in a well floured basin, make 
an incision across it, and place it in a warm place till 
it is very light. Now place three fourths of a pound 
of flour upon your board, and in a hole in the middle 
put one eighth of an ounce of salt, two gills of rich, 



APPENDIX. 185 

sweet cream, an eighth of a gill of water, and four 
eggs ; mix it into a soft, flexible paste ; press it out 
flat, lay the leaven upon it, folding it over and work- 
ing the two till well amalgamated ; flour a clean cloth 
and fold the paste into it, and let it remain all night. 
In the morning mould it into small rolls, put them 
on a baking sheet, and bake in a moderate oven. 

FRENCH MUFFINS. 

A quart of warm water in which has been dissolved 
a quarter of a pound of hard yeast, and mixed with 
sufficient flour to make rather a stiff batter ; set it in 
a warm place, four hours, then stir it down and divide 
it into pieces of a quarter of a pound each, which 
mould with the hands, and put into wooden trays 
containing a round bed of flour for each ; let them 
stand two hours in a warm place, and cook them upon 
an iron griddle, turning them over when nicely risen. 
They will be baked in about ten minutes if the stove 
is sufficiently hot. 

POACHED EGGS. 

Put four teaspoonfuls of vinegar, and half a teaspoon- 
ful of salt into a pint of water. Place it over the fire in 
a stew-pan, and when boiling, break the eggs into it as 
near the surface of the water as possible ; let them boil 
gently about three minutes ; take them out with a small 
slice, and set them carefully upon thin slices of toast 
laid ready in a hot dish. 

BREAKFAST ROLLS. 

Put four pounds of flour into an earthen pan, make 



186 



APPENDIX. 



a hole in the centre, and put in three pints of warm 
water, a gill of brewer's yeast, or hard yeast well 
dissolved, mix a little of the flour to form a leaven, 
and set it in a warm place to rise. When the leaven 
has risen and begun to fall, add a little salt and a pint 
of warm milk, make a flexible dough, and set it in a 
warm place for another hour. It is then ready to be 
moulded into any desired shape. 

HUSKS. 

Place three pounds of flour upon the moulding- 
board, and in a hole in the middle put two ounces of 
hard yeast, dissolved in a pint of warm water, mix a 
little of the flour with it to form a leaven, leave it in 
a warm place to rise for half an hour, then add two 
ounces of powdered sugar, and half a pint of thick, 
sweet cream, dissolved in a little warm water. Mix 
the whole into dough, and let it rise in a warm place, 
then work it with the hands, divide it into three pieces, 
each of which form into a long roll of about two inches 
in thickness, place them on a buttered tin, four or five 
inches apart, and put them in a warm place, occasion- 
ally moistening the tops with milk ; bake them in a 
moderate oven ; when cold, cut them in slices the 
thickness of a copper cent, lay them upon a clean 
baking sheet, and brown them in a moderate oven, 
first on one side, then on the other. 

SHEEP'S KIDNEYS. 

Be sure that they are fresh, which you can tell by 
smelling, cut them open lengthwise exactly in the 
middle, thread them upon wooden skewers by passing 



APPENDIX. 187 

the skewer twice through the white part of each, sea- 
son them with a good deal of salt and a little pepper, 
and place them on a gridiron, or soapstone griddle, 
(inside downwards,) over a quick fire ; turn them over 
in three minutes, and at the end of another three, they 
will be done ; take them off the skewers and serve 
them in a very hot dish. 

If placed on thin slices of toast, and a little lemon 
juice squeezed upon them, they will be improved. 

If rolled well in well-beaten egg and then dipped in 
bread crumbs, and broiled ten minutes, and a little 
cream poured over them, they will be nicer still. Serve 
always in a very hot dish. 



SWEET LAIT DE POTTLE. (Good for a Cold.) 

Beat together very thoroughly for ten minutes the 
yolks of two eggs, two teaspoonfuls of powdered sugar 
and the eighth part of the rind of a lemon, grated; 
then pour boiling water over, stirring it all the time. 
It will make a large cupful. 

A PLEASANT BEVERAGE. 

Put four good apples, cut into slices, without peel- 
ing them, into half a gallon of boiling water, and 
when the apples have become quite soft, press them 
gently on a sieve to extract all the liquid, add honey 
or even brown sugar till sweet enough, and drink it 
lukewarm. 

Baked apples thrown into a jar, and having boiling 



188 APPENDIX. 

water poured over them, covered from the air till cool, 
and sweetened, make a very pleasant beverage to be 
taken when cold. 

BEVERAGE OF RASPBERRY VINEGAR. 

Pour half a pint of boiling water upon two table- 
spoonfuls of raspberry vinegar, or any kind of fruit 
syrup. 

FRENCH HERB BROTH. 

This is a favorite beverage in France, taken in 
spring. Boil a quart of water, throw in forty leaves 
of sorrel, a cabbage lettuce, and ten sprigs of chevril, 
all well washed. Add a teaspoonful of salt, and a gill 
of cream. Cover the pan closely and let it simmer a 
few minutes, then pass it through a sieve. 

It is to be taken cold, and is considered very 
healthful. 

BEVERAGE OF FIGS AND APPLES. 

Throw into two quarts of boiling water six fresh 
dry figs, previously opened, and two apples, cut into 
pieces ; let the whole, apple seeds, skins and all, boil 
twenty minutes, then cool them a little in a basin, and 
pass them through a sieve. The beverage will be 
delicious, and the figs good to eat when drained. 

FIG LEMONADE. 

Put two moist dried figs, which have been cut in 
two, into a stew-pan with a quart of cold water. Let 
them boil a quarter of an hour, put in half the peel of 
a lemon, and the half lemon itself cut in thin slices 



APPENDIX. 189 

after it is peeled. Boil two minutes longer. Pour 
the whole into a jug and cover it with a paper till 
cool, then pass it through a sieve, and add a teaspoon- 
ful of honey. 

IMPERIAL BEVERAGE. (For Spring.) 

Place two ounces of cream of tartar, two lemons, 
juice and peel, and four ounces of sugar in a jug ; 
pour on six quarts of boiling water ; when cold, bottle 
it. Instead of sugar, three table-spoonfuls of rasp- 
berry vinegar and six ounces of honey may be used. 
This is a very refreshing drink. 

TOAST WATER. 

This excellent beverage for invalids is generally 
spoiled in the making. Cut a piece of crusty bread, 
about a quarter of a pound in weight, toast it upon a 
toasting fork till of a rich brown color, put into a jug 
or large pitcher, and pour over it three quarts of boil- 
ing water ; cover the jug with paper until it is cold, 
then strain it, for if the toast is left in it, it will soon 
ferment. It will keep several days if bottled. The 
bread must never be burnt. 



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HENRY W. LONGFELLOW. 

PROSE WORKS. 

OUTRE-MER ; A Pilgrimage beyond the Sea. A new edition. 
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HYPERION; A Romance. A new edition. 1 vol. 16mo. Cloth, 
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One of the most pleasing characteristics of Longfellow's works is 
their intense humanity. A man's heart beats in every line. He loves, 
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GRACE GREENWOOD. 

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HAPS AND MISHAPS OF A TOUR IN EUROPE. A brilliant 
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POETICAL WORKS. A new and enlarged edition. With fine 
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THE FOREST TRAGEDY, AND OTHER TALES. 1 vol. 16mo. 

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MERRIE ENGLAND. Travels, Descriptions, Tales, and Historical 
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they are strictly national ; they are likewise decisively individual. All 
true individuality is honestly social, and also, in Miss Clarke's writings, 
nothing is sectional, and nothing sectarian. She is one of the spiritual 
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CHARLES KINGSLEY. 

POETICAL WORKS. 1 vol. l6mo. Cloth, 75 cents ; gilt edge, 

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* This is a book of poems, by a scholar, poet and divine, who has already 
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reasoning, under the graceful garb of true poetry. He fearlessly calls 
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severely of the sins that bear them.' — Saturday Courier. 

• The poet, with all that love of humanity, and that ready sense of 
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Great questions he discusses through the medium of his vigorous and 
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THE VOYAGES AND ADVENTURES OF SIR AMYAS LEIGH, 

of Burrough, County of Devon, in the reign of Queen Elizabeth of 
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GLAUCUS; Or, THE WONDERS OF THE SHORE. 1vol. 

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Following immediately a careful perusal of his works, we have no 
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rate romance, Mr. Hawthorne has equalled if not surpassed any other 
writer who has appeared in our country during the last half century.— 
Transcript. 



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OLD PORTRAITS AND MODERN SKETCHES. Contents : John 
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— The Poetry of the North — The Boy Captives — The Black Men 
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ALFRED TENNYSON. 

POETICAL WORKS, including the Princess and several new pieces. 
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IN MEMORIAM. Tennyson's most beautiful production. 1 vol. 
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MAUD, AND OTHER POEMS. A New Volume. 50 cents. 

COMPLETE POETICAL WORKS. In 1 vol. 32mo. A neat pocket 
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'Of all living poets, hardly any has a wider or more desirable repu- 
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' In Memoriam is the most exquisite creation by any man of genius 
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GEORGE 8. HILLARD. 

SIX MONTHS IN ITALY. 1 vol. 16mo. New Edition. $1.50. 

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'Mr. Hillard has fairly carried us with him from the first page to the 
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'No work will be issued in America for a long time more delightful 
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1 A record of travels which has not failed to take the highest classical 
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O. W. HOLMES. 

COMPLETE POETICAL WORKS. A new and much enlarged 
Edition, revised by the Author. A fine Portrait embellishes this 
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ASTILEA, the Balance of Illusions. 1 vol. 16mo. 25 cents. 

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of the most genuine pathos and tenderness.' — Griswold's Poets of Amer- 
ica. 

' We take leave of this delightful volume, with a commendation to all 
lovers of good poetry to place it at once in their libraries.' — Boston 
Ti anscript. 

' It would be useless to speak of the peculiar and striking excellen- 
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in every body's mouth or memory. Those who desire a handsome copy 
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PASSIONFLOWERS. 3d edition. 1vol. 16mo. Price 75 cents ; 
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WORDS FOR THE HOUR. 1vol. 16mo. 75 cents. 

THE WORLD'S OWN. 1vol. 16mo. 50 cents. 

' We know of no living poet of her sex, with whom to compare the 
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and depth of her sentiments.' — JN. Y. Evening Post. 

' Each poem has the marks of unmistakable genuineness — a product 
wrung with tears and prayers from the deepest soul of the writer.' — 
A*, y. Tribune. 






